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Old 03-13-2017, 07:12 PM   #1
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Regarding the panels around engine compartment in a re



I've got spray foam insulation coming next Monday and I'm wanting to do this build right.
The panels on the sides above the engine compartment are all super riveted down, which isn't a problem, I just don't no I'm able to remove sure if there's something and I should just leave those up. I just don't know what I can do with this area, we are going to Wood panel all the rest of the sides and ceiling, would like to do it in that area as well as our bed will be on top of the engine compartment. Wanting to do cupboards above theemergency exit If I could get some more info and if any of you know what's under all that I'd appreciate it. I'm finding nothing so far
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Old 03-13-2017, 07:32 PM   #2
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Possibly use 1" furring attached to the area to build it out and use rigid insulation there?

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Old 03-13-2017, 07:58 PM   #3
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i took the one out on the back wall but left the ones over the motor. i sprayed the engine cover also with foam and the wheel wells. see my pics below. get all your prep done before you start and keep moving around. its real easy. where a good mask and gloves and put lotion on any exposed skin.good luck and have fun
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Old 03-13-2017, 08:09 PM   #4
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I pulled all of those interior skins on mine.

I'll snap some pics for you and post them up in the morning.
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Old 03-13-2017, 08:16 PM   #5
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Wow.

Dave, I'd noticed before that you had an 8.3, but had never seen the length of your bus.

With the lighter weight of a shorter bus, I'd imagine that thing must be pretty quick to get up to speed.
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Old 03-13-2017, 08:18 PM   #6
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Wow.

Dave, I'd noticed before that you had an 8.3, but had never seen the length of your bus.

With the lighter weight of a shorter bus, I'd imagine that thing must be pretty quick to get up to speed.
His bus is powerful, and its got a similar wheelbase to my 40FE so its super maneuverable compared to a 40 foot RE.
Its also got a brand new jasper engine.
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Old 03-13-2017, 08:27 PM   #7
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yes it does, tops out at 60 @2300 rpm. does great on these hills
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Old 03-14-2017, 01:30 AM   #8
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I pulled all of those interior skins on mine.

I'll snap some pics for you and post them up in the morning.
Thanks a whole lot, always appreciate your help
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Old 03-14-2017, 01:32 AM   #9
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yes it does, tops out at 60 @2300 rpm. does great on these hills
Dave why does it top out at 60? It must be a regulator of some sort I imagine. I've got the 8.3 and can keep a steady 80 and I'm at 40ft .... I bet you can get to 60 whole lot faster than I can
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Old 03-14-2017, 01:34 AM   #10
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i took the one out on the back wall but left the ones over the motor. i sprayed the engine cover also with foam and the wheel wells. see my pics below. get all your prep done before you start and keep moving around. its real easy. where a good mask and gloves and put lotion on any exposed skin.good luck and have fun

Dave did you also leave the ones on the wall to the sides and above the engine box?
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Old 03-14-2017, 06:27 AM   #11
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i ran out of time on the small pieces around the small windows on the back of the bus but plan on taking them out before i finish the back. i left the engine intake on the right, i dont have anything on the left.
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Old 03-14-2017, 06:37 AM   #12
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Dave why does it top out at 60? It must be a regulator of some sort I imagine. I've got the 8.3 and can keep a steady 80 and I'm at 40ft .... I bet you can get to 60 whole lot faster than I can
ya its governed at 60, fast enough for me. i was getting 8.2 mpg in Florida, 7.3 here in the mountains. on a mountain grade if i can hit it full speed im doing 50 at the top. just weighed the bus , 19560
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Old 03-14-2017, 06:43 AM   #13
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ya its governed at 60, fast enough for me. i was getting 8.2 mpg in Florida, 7.3 here in the mountains. on a mountain grade if i can hit it full speed im doing 50 at the top. just weighed the bus , 19560
Only 19.5? Dang, man that's not bad at all.
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Old 03-14-2017, 12:08 PM   #14
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It looks like your intake ducting is much slimmer and flatter against the wall than mine. Yours is essentially what I was thinking of building.




On mine the air filter comes up thought from the engine compartment and plugs into that duct box that opens to the louvers in the outer skin.
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Old 03-14-2017, 12:12 PM   #15
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The opposite wall has the same internal structure, minus the ducting and louvers.


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Old 03-14-2017, 12:15 PM   #16
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The metal pieces around the small windows are pretty thin and don't seem to do anything to keep the window in place. I think they're simply trim.


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Old 03-14-2017, 12:17 PM   #17
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The inner rear cap skin was just held with screws, but had lips that were tucked behind the wall skins.


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Old 03-14-2017, 12:21 PM   #18
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The rear shelf was one of the most important pieces to remove in my mind, because the new interior surface needs to be at the same height as the original shelf in order to be able to easily access the handle for the rear emergency window.

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Old 03-14-2017, 12:30 PM   #19
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The front skin of the bench (down by the floor) is most likely getting left in place. I can see any real benefit to removing that. I'll just insulate over it and treat it as though it were the outer skin.

The formed red pieces of steel that run side to side are pretty beefy, so I'll be leaving those in place to aid in structural integrity. I'll also definitely be maintaining engine access through that hatch even though it'll mean moving my bed if I ever need to use it.





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Old 03-14-2017, 12:32 PM   #20
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Thanks a whole lot, always appreciate your help


Glad to help. Let me know if there's anything you want or need better detail shots of.
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