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Old 07-02-2018, 02:07 PM   #21
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Tuck it under the sheet metal at the top and over the sheet metal at the bottom but under the rub rail. This will layer it like shingles on a roof. This is my plan.


Is it a good idea to keep everything water tight?!? Um, unless you plan on weather proofing the dash, all the wires and connectors, and then whatever else you are putting in the bus for an interior, why would you NOT weather proof it??? A 40 foot convertible with no top? Yes, I am being a smart a$$ but no I don't understand the question either. Of course you want the sheet metal waterproof; what am I missing? Leaks would be bad.
Convertible idk. Maybe just a cloth sun roof like the old bugs would be cool
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Old 07-02-2018, 02:29 PM   #22
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Originally Posted by Whatthefak View Post
Convertible idk. Maybe just a cloth sun roof like the old bugs would be cool
Lol, until the first time it rains. Like the old bugs you'll need windshield wipers on both sides of the glass.
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Old 07-03-2018, 02:26 PM   #23
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Sorry, poorly worded question. I meant something more like "is this a good plan in order to achieve keeping the bus water tight." Thanks.
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Old 07-03-2018, 03:26 PM   #24
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: shrug: I'm putting mine back together the way it came apart. Probably add some sealant, metal bonding, whatever that isn't there now.

I didn't see you mention putting rivets back so wasn't sure if you're looking at gluing/sealing/bonding/welding/etc. or just omitted mentioning riveting.
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Old 07-03-2018, 04:46 PM   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Brewerbob View Post
Tuck it under the sheet metal at the top and over the sheet metal at the bottom but under the rub rail. This will layer it like shingles on a roof. This is my plan.


Is it a good idea to keep everything water tight?!? Um, unless you plan on weather proofing the dash, all the wires and connectors, and then whatever else you are putting in the bus for an interior, why would you NOT weather proof it??? A 40 foot convertible with no top? Yes, I am being a smart a$$ but no I don't understand the question either. Of course you want the sheet metal waterproof; what am I missing? Leaks would be bad.
He wasn't asking if it was a good idea to keep everything watertight. He was asking if his idea was good way?
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Old 07-03-2018, 05:08 PM   #26
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Yes, I plan on putting sheet metal over it. I'm thinking of removing the rivets and tucking the sheet metal in underneath the lip over the windows and underneath the black panel or right up against it below the windows on the side of the bus. Is this a good idea to keep everything water tight?
Yes, that is a good way to keep it water tight. Add some automotive see sealer to the panels when you install them.

Unless your welding the sheets in.
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Old 07-03-2018, 05:48 PM   #27
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I was sort of surprised to find my lower wall metal does not wrap around the lower window ledge, it is instead flush with the top of the flange and then just spot welded every 2" or so. looks like I'll be shearing that off below the window.
Mine was neither wrapped nor welded. Rivets. Little blind rivets. Easiest part of the bus so far.
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Old 07-04-2018, 06:44 PM   #28
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Metal lip

Personally I like the lip. Build my fender boxes and bolted to lip, then attached floor structure to it (no screws in floor). Also used it to secure bed. I think it is handy and ran conduit along it for my Ac. For metal below window, a 2x4 fits in there nicely and I could still add 1.5 inches insulation and cedar wainscotting and avoid thermal bridging. So just ponder it a bit before removing is my advice.
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Old 07-04-2018, 08:08 PM   #29
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Just passing thru and not reading everything, but....


The chair rail is not added on. Look closely, and you will see that it is part of that panel. So we are dealing with structural integrity, yes.



I have cut away short sections of it in Millicent, and expect no trouble from that, but I would not remove much of it.
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Old 07-06-2018, 12:55 AM   #30
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Originally Posted by o1marc View Post
I was sort of surprised to find my lower wall metal does not wrap around the lower window ledge, it is instead flush with the top of the flange and then just spot welded every 2" or so. looks like I'll be shearing that off below the window.
Mine is also spot welded. I cut it off 1/2" below the window aluminum with the windows IN. I wouldn't try to take it off more than that.
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Old 08-16-2020, 01:43 PM   #31
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Alright Skoolie fam, I just got here after that last couple hours of REMOVING THE STEEL RAIL!
What the heck. Should I get something fabricated to run the whole length of the damn bus?
... This has been a frustrating day...
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Old 08-16-2020, 01:54 PM   #32
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Alright Skoolie fam, I just got here after that last couple hours of REMOVING THE STEEL RAIL!
What the heck. Should I get something fabricated to run the whole length of the damn bus?
... This has been a frustrating day...
Do you mean the chair rail running the length about 12 " off the floor? It's a structural part of the body, do not remove it. A bit of research would have easily revealed that critical step. How did you remove it?
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Old 08-16-2020, 02:21 PM   #33
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Yea, I used a grinder to knock of the rivets holding it in, now I guess I'll look at getting a piece fabricated to replace it or figure out how to re-attach it.
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Old 08-16-2020, 02:31 PM   #34
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Going through other demo pictures, it looks like most of them are behind the walls, mine was mounted on top of the sheet metal walls, so it just looked like a piece that was in the way to getting the walls off.

Fun times ahead!
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Old 08-16-2020, 03:02 PM   #35
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This is what my tail looks like
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Old 08-16-2020, 06:57 PM   #36
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TheMacyFamily View Post
Going through other demo pictures, it looks like most of them are behind the walls, mine was mounted on top of the sheet metal walls, so it just looked like a piece that was in the way to getting the walls off.

Fun times ahead!
It would be helpful to fill out your profile (the box on the left under your name) and say what type of bus you have -- as you're finding out, they're not all built quite the same...

From your pics it does indeed look like your chair-rail is an add-on piece over the wall panels.

I'd say it still adds structure to the bus tying all the ribs together but that doesn't mean you 1) need that level of structure 2) that you can't put it back after the sheet metal wall panels are removed. And you can selectively put it back wherever you like on the wall and it will still tie the ribs together...

Depending on how you plan to insulate and repanel the walls will dictate if you need it or not...
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Old 08-16-2020, 07:04 PM   #37
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It would be helpful to fill out your profile (the box on the left under your name) and say what type of bus you have -- as you're finding out, they're not all built quite the same...

From your pics it does indeed look like your chair-rail is an add-on piece over the wall panels.

I'd say it still adds structure to the bus tying all the ribs together but that doesn't mean you 1) need that level of structure 2) that you can't put it back after the sheet metal wall panels are removed. And you can selectively put it back wherever you like on the wall and it will still tie the ribs together...

Depending on how you plan to insulate and repanel the walls will dictate if you need it or not...
Thank you! Yea, still navigating how to use this site, but it seems like its the most helpful resource out there!

I don't think all is lost, and I like your idea of keeping sections. I'll see what it looks like after those panels come off. Taking this thing apart I realize just how strong these things are built. Now I'm wondering the best way to re-attach it at sections.
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Old 08-16-2020, 08:01 PM   #38
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Nothing is lost, MacyFamily.
What we are always on alert for is this type of chair rail:




Here, the rail was created by folding a single sheet of steel double and at right angle, as indicated with my crayon. This you would not want to cut away (except for a few inches here and there), since that would completely separate the two (disparate in appearance) panels.
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Old 08-16-2020, 09:45 PM   #39
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Nothing is lost, MacyFamily.
What we are always on alert for is this type of chair rail:




Here, the rail was created by folding a single sheet of steel double and at right angle, as indicated with my crayon. This you would not want to cut away (except for a few inches here and there), since that would completely separate the two (disparate in appearance) panels.
So I havenít taken it off the other side, I was going to leave it and cut the sheet metal around it, and reattach some of it on the side I took it off.

Whatís your take on it? Structural or not?
Itís pretty damn thick.
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