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01-18-2005, 02:43 PM
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#1
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Mini-Skoolie
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Salt Lake City, Utah
Posts: 31
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Removing the Rubber Flooring--Good idea?
The weather is warming up here in Utah, thanks to global warming, and I am getting back to working on my bus. What are the pro's and con's of the rubber flooring? I am going to put carpet in. I don't have rubber flooring in my house and I can't see why it would be an advantage in my bus. I'm on my first conversion and would like to have some input. Thanks.
Herb in Utah--1990 Blue Bird Flatnose
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04-18-2005, 02:40 PM
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#2
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Skoolie
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: Elk River, MN
Posts: 113
Year: 1988
Coachwork: Bluebird
Chassis: Chevy C-60
Engine: 8.2L Turbo Detroit Diesel
Rated Cap: 77
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You've probably already made your decision but I would remove it. Won't serve a purpose if you are carpeting, just adds more weight for no reason.
Chad
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04-19-2005, 12:30 PM
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#3
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Almost There
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: Land of Oz
Posts: 75
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I think it would act as a good moisture barrier if the floor is wood or partical board.
__________________
"I'm a man of means by no means King of the road"
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04-19-2005, 12:45 PM
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#4
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Skoolie
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: Elk River, MN
Posts: 113
Year: 1988
Coachwork: Bluebird
Chassis: Chevy C-60
Engine: 8.2L Turbo Detroit Diesel
Rated Cap: 77
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Mine seemed to do a good job of trapping moisure (over plywood). If there's a chance that moiture can get under it then you risk rotting the wood. Part of mine works good as a rubber mat in front of my workbench
Chad
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04-19-2005, 12:54 PM
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#5
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Skoolie
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: Salt Lake City, UT
Posts: 138
Year: 1989
Coachwork: Wayne
Chassis: Ford
Engine: 370
Rated Cap: 44
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I ripped mine out just to get the floor even. the center isle had metal running strips that stuck up from the floor about .25". I threw plywood and linoleum tiles down and i like how its working as far as sound and insulation...
__________________
'89 Ford 370-2V Wayne - Sold :(
https://www.dammitandy.com/bus
Plotting the next project now. Looking for a clean diesel pusher with low rust/miles. Identical plans with plumming and biodiesel added :)
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04-23-2005, 10:00 PM
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#6
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Mini-Skoolie
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: Everywhere and Nowhere
Posts: 39
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Hi,
I would not only recomend ripping up the rubber matt,but the whole wood floor. School buses sweat a lot and you would be suprised at the amount of rust that could be there.Ours wa rusted through the floor in some places and needed to be reinforced.~ Pixie
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05-07-2005, 10:14 PM
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#7
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Bus Nut
Join Date: Apr 2005
Posts: 274
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the rubber mat in mine did an excellent job of trapping moisture and rusting the floor!!!
__________________
Brad Davis
79 International Wayne
"Big Blue"
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07-05-2005, 03:54 PM
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#8
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Mini-Skoolie
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Salt Lake City, Utah
Posts: 31
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Rubber floor removal
It took a while to get to it, but I removed the rubber flooring. What I found was damp plywood. That didn't seem too good. I also ripped out the wood and found that the metal floor wasn't really too rusty. I'll be replacing the wood in the next few days and start building this old bus up. And, yes I am glad I did it.
Herb in Utah
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07-15-2005, 11:04 PM
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#9
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Mini-Skoolie
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Vancouver, BC ... Canada
Posts: 66
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Just wondering.... what thickness of plywood are you/did you put down? I too am going to be ripping up the floor and putting carpet down, but I am wondering if I should just put it right over the steel?? (after paint of course) or should I put down 3/4" so I have something to screw into, or is 1/4" thick enough?
__________________
1990 Ford/Bluebird 16pass Shortie....
https://www.skoolie.net/gallery/Shortie
All right, brain, I don't like you and you don't like me - so let's just do this and I'll get back to killing you with beer. -- Homer Simpson
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07-21-2005, 12:07 PM
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#10
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Mini-Skoolie
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: Everywhere and Nowhere
Posts: 39
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What we did was put 1x2"s the length of the bus ,then we put foam insulation in between,and a layer of 1'4 inch plywood on top.
We chose a tounge and groove wood floor,rather than carpet because of ease in cleaning-and looks.-Pixie
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07-21-2005, 12:47 PM
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#11
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Mini-Skoolie
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Vancouver, BC ... Canada
Posts: 66
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Thanks Pixie. Yeah tounge and groove would be nice, or I was thinking a hard wood floor too, that would look so nice, but I have weight issues here to deal with being a short bus and all. Hardwood floors will definatly go down in my next (Bigger) bus tho, you just can't beat the looks, and as you say, easy to clean... that's always a big plus in my book.
I will however use your idea with the 1/2's tho and insulating the floor, I think that this should cut down on the noise considerably.
Thanks for your help, Pleasant journeys
__________________
1990 Ford/Bluebird 16pass Shortie....
https://www.skoolie.net/gallery/Shortie
All right, brain, I don't like you and you don't like me - so let's just do this and I'll get back to killing you with beer. -- Homer Simpson
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07-25-2005, 08:35 PM
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#12
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Bus Nut
Join Date: Apr 2005
Posts: 274
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I just finished installing 3/4 inch OSB over a derusted, repaired, sealed and painted (one coat primer, one coat rustoleum) floor. It feels rock solid, I'm glad I didn't go thinner because of cost. It was worth the money. I plan on carpeting soon.
__________________
Brad Davis
79 International Wayne
"Big Blue"
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07-26-2005, 06:00 PM
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#13
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Mini-Skoolie
Join Date: Jul 2005
Posts: 17
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Another Flooring Question
Hi Folks...
Been reading for a while but haven't posted. GREAT place by the way!
Recently bought a 1988 Bluebird flat nose. I forget the capacity but it was like 69 or something. It's about 40' long. Anyway, pulled the rubber and rotted plywood and need to put new stuff down. Old stuff was layed longways front to back. Seems like it would be easier to lay the new stuff across, window to window. Does it matter since the sheet metal floor is good or do I need to try and lay the ends on cross supports. Thanks...
BusMe
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07-26-2005, 07:37 PM
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#14
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Mini-Skoolie
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Vancouver, BC ... Canada
Posts: 66
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The Floor on mine is about quite thick, so it would do fine without any Ply, wouldn't really matter which way I layed it. I did however lay it window to window.. the measurment was 90 1/2" I think. Then I cut the pieces in half so I could fit them in tighter. Im gonna screw them down with stainless sheet metal screws.
So yeah... unless your floor is pop can thin... I don't think it matters which direction you lay them.
__________________
1990 Ford/Bluebird 16pass Shortie....
https://www.skoolie.net/gallery/Shortie
All right, brain, I don't like you and you don't like me - so let's just do this and I'll get back to killing you with beer. -- Homer Simpson
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07-28-2005, 12:05 PM
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#15
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Skoolie
Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: MA
Posts: 187
Engine: CAT 3208 NA
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I finally got around to pulling up the rubber matting in my bus and guess what? The "schoolbus smell" went away!
Jake.
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07-28-2005, 12:45 PM
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#16
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Bus Nut
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: Grundy, Virginia
Posts: 632
Year: 1985
Coachwork: ThomasBuilt
Chassis: International Harvester S-1700
Engine: 9L IHC V-8 Diesel 180HP
Rated Cap: 60
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vonslatt
I finally got around to pulling up the rubber matting in my bus and guess what? The "schoolbus smell" went away!
Jake.
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I'm sorry to hear that, Jake. As far as I know, you cannot get "that schoolbus smell" in a can the way you can buy "that new car smell". But perhaps one day science will come to your aid, and then you can have your stinky schoolbus smell back where it belongs!
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07-28-2005, 12:52 PM
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#17
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Bus Nut
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Off-Grid
Posts: 740
Year: 1982
Coachwork: Thomas
Chassis: IH S1723
Engine: IH V345 Gas V8
Rated Cap: 66
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__________________
~(G)Q Arduously Avoiding Assimilation
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07-28-2005, 10:08 PM
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#18
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Mini-Skoolie
Join Date: Jul 2005
Posts: 17
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Thanks Dan-O... I've been walking around on the sheet metal with no problem and I'm 6'4 251 lbs. Looks like the wood is going down side to side.
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