Originally Posted by r0meboards
So I'm thinking about how I want to reseal my windows. Here's the thing – they are currently in fantastic shape. I've had the bus for over a year now without a drop of moisture getting inside through the existing window seams. They are kept together not with caulking/sealing but a rubber gasket type material (see photo).
So my questions at the moment are:
1. Do I REALLY need to reseal these? Part of me thinks that by yanking them out and resealing it might just wind up worse than what I currently have...
2. The gasket material is roughly 1/4" - 1/2" thick, meaning if I remove them and seal it back up I will need to use something (foam backer? buytl tape?) to fill in the gap that is created.
3. I'm curious if there's a middle ground, where I don't remove the windows / rubber gasket and maybe just add a bead of caulk around everything. The obvious question becomes what (if any) material would adhere well to the rubber material and the metal of the bus.
Any tips / insight is much appreciated!
Your question is based on your confidence in the quality of replacement seals, installed by you, versus the existing, factory installed seals.
More to the point. You know yourself, best. If you believe that you are proficient at reading, learning a craft, and are willing to do the labor. Yes, absolutely replace the cheap aging seals. The factory didn't use great materials or meticulous processes. They're installed fast, cheap & expendable. Short half life. Anyone
could do much better, on their first time. You'll know I'm right before you're halfway through.
TC (old lady, no construction experience) removed all of our windows, 2 to 4 at a time. Cleaned each frame & installed a much higher quality, grey butyl. $5/35ft roll. And a few other products, where applicable.
Will you do a little recon about your bus, for other Collins owners? Please peer over the top of your aluminum window frames. Is there a space between the steel bus frame and the aluminum glass frame? It maybe easier to check if it's dusk and you have a partner shine a light above. I think Collins may incorporate the same air gap over each window as IC bus windows.
A scrap section of 1-1/2" closed-cell backer rod, demonstrates the size of the void in the steel channel, above the stock IC windows. You can also see a portion of the same gap, above the adjacent window, just behind the AL frame lip.
Top edge is not air-sealed. No water enters due to the exterior overhang. This is however, a huge source of air convection. Accounting for each window, a total of 59.5 feet of 1-1/2" void, in our bus. Now sealed with closed-cell backer rod.
For us, the backer rod displayed more results than my other efforts. Some, we were not expecting. It's much quieter inside and all of our condensation problems have disappeared. Even with the interior panels & factory insulation, removed. No moist air, always dry inside, with or w/o the a/c running.