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06-19-2019, 08:47 AM
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#61
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Bus Geek
Join Date: Oct 2016
Location: Essex, MD
Posts: 3,738
Year: 1999
Coachwork: Blue Bird
Chassis: Blue Bird TC RE 3904, Flat Nose, 40', 277" wh base
Engine: 8.3L Cummins ISC 260hp, MT643, 4.44 rear
Rated Cap: 84 pax or 1 RV; 33,000lbs
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Quote:
Originally Posted by musigenesis
Welding class is $480 and that's for (theoretically) 43 classroom/lab hours.
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What?!!? Maybe I need to double check the CC here. Co-worker kid here took one. I want to say it was at least double that. Covered MIG, TIG, and stick. I don't remember if it came with a cert at the end of it or not. If it comes with a cert I understand the price. But I don't need/want TIG and stick much less a cert.
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Teacher is a welding engineer that oversees a welding/machining shop for a nuclear power plant, so he seems to know his stuff.
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Quote:
So far I've just been trying to run straight beads since I'm a total newb, but I hope to someday graduate to sticking two pieces of metal together.
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Fairly easy but then I've no idea how well they are stuck together. Doesn't come apart after beating it with a hammer.
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I'm down for Friday. I may come in my bus for the hell of it.
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Let me get a straight answer of the woman first before you commit.
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06-19-2019, 08:57 AM
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#62
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Bus Geek
Join Date: Oct 2016
Location: Essex, MD
Posts: 3,738
Year: 1999
Coachwork: Blue Bird
Chassis: Blue Bird TC RE 3904, Flat Nose, 40', 277" wh base
Engine: 8.3L Cummins ISC 260hp, MT643, 4.44 rear
Rated Cap: 84 pax or 1 RV; 33,000lbs
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Quote:
Originally Posted by musigenesis
I'm down for Friday. I may come in my bus for the hell of it.
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If you do come down, use the Rte 715 Gate. The GPS will take you to the Rte 22 Gate if you're driving a 40 foot school bus!! Trucks (large) are only allowed thru the 715 Gate even tho the clearance is 14 1/2 ft by 10 ft at the 22 Gate. Visitors' Center is at the 715 Gate and is open until 6 pm. You'll need DL and registration. After 6 pm you just drive thru the gate with a DL. Makes no sense but there's the right way, wrong way, and the Army way.
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06-19-2019, 09:15 AM
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#63
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Bus Geek
Join Date: Oct 2016
Location: Essex, MD
Posts: 3,738
Year: 1999
Coachwork: Blue Bird
Chassis: Blue Bird TC RE 3904, Flat Nose, 40', 277" wh base
Engine: 8.3L Cummins ISC 260hp, MT643, 4.44 rear
Rated Cap: 84 pax or 1 RV; 33,000lbs
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She's not good with Fri but she's coming down. Long story but she hates my daughter and she hates her neighbor in PA. With good reason for both. So we are on for Fri!!
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06-19-2019, 01:10 PM
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#64
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Bus Geek
Join Date: Sep 2014
Location: Eustis FLORIDA
Posts: 23,764
Year: 1999
Coachwork: Thomas
Chassis: Freighliner FS65
Engine: Cat 3126
Rated Cap: 15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by musigenesis
Anybody know of a place to buy a small number of 1/4" plier-operated clecos? Every place I've found that sells these requires a minimum order of $50.
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I've got a small bag of them and the tool as well. If you wana borrow em I'll send em your way. Just send em back when you're done?
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05-19-2021, 06:19 PM
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#65
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Bus Geek
Join Date: Jan 2019
Location: Philadelphia
Posts: 7,000
Year: 2003
Coachwork: International
Chassis: CE 300
Engine: DT466e
Rated Cap: 65C-43A
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Quote:
Originally Posted by EastCoastCB
I've got a small bag of them and the tool as well. If you wana borrow em I'll send em your way. Just send em back when you're done?
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Huh, I never saw this back in the day. Thanks for the offer! I'm pretty well-endowed with clecos now, though.
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05-19-2021, 06:27 PM
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#66
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Bus Crazy
Join Date: Oct 2020
Location: Florida
Posts: 1,569
Coachwork: Integrated Coach Corp.
Chassis: RE-300 42ft
Engine: 466ci
Rated Cap: 90
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ECCB helped with mine, too.
Clecos are wonderful! I wouldn't do any other way.
Lots of useful info can be found in these old threads. Some just, ha. Definitely worth digging around.
Have you read the "Old Harold" thread? Poor Mildred.....
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05-19-2021, 07:49 PM
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#67
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Bus Geek
Join Date: Sep 2014
Location: Eustis FLORIDA
Posts: 23,764
Year: 1999
Coachwork: Thomas
Chassis: Freighliner FS65
Engine: Cat 3126
Rated Cap: 15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DeMac
ECCB helped with mine, too.
Clecos are wonderful! I wouldn't do any other way.
Lots of useful info can be found in these old threads. Some just, ha. Definitely worth digging around.
Have you read the "Old Harold" thread? Poor Mildred.....
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I like to think I've at least figured out the roof hatch delete. Lol
Looking great, man!
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12-17-2021, 04:21 PM
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#68
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Mini-Skoolie
Join Date: Sep 2018
Location: Santa Barbara, CA
Posts: 21
Year: 2002
Coachwork: Bluebird
Chassis: Chevy
Engine: 7.3 Turbodiesel Caterpillar, 3126
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Good info here, gents. I'm trying to research which rivet gun to buy, which type of rivets, and praying that my 20 gallon/4CFM @ 90psi compressor will do the job. It hasn't fared so well at keeping up with the air hammer to knock out the rivets. LOTS of catch-up time.
Anyone still generous enough to loan or sell some 1/4" clecos? A lot of these tools will be a 1-time use for me, so hard to justify spending a bunch on buying new.
Seems like a mixed opinion on whether the Harbor Freight riveter (they have 3 different ones for sale) will handle those 1/4" steel rivets. I'm hoping to do the 1/4" blind closed end rivets, as they seem to be closest to factory, no? The link Musigenisis threw up seems like the ticket.
__________________
-The dumbest guy in the room.
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12-17-2021, 08:19 PM
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#69
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Bus Crazy
Join Date: Oct 2020
Location: Near Flagstaff AZ
Posts: 1,951
Year: 1974
Coachwork: Crown
Chassis: "Atomic"
Engine: DD 8V71
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Anon Ent Titty
Good info here, gents. I'm trying to research which rivet gun to buy, which type of rivets, and praying that my 20 gallon/4CFM @ 90psi compressor will do the job. It hasn't fared so well at keeping up with the air hammer to knock out the rivets. LOTS of catch-up time.
Anyone still generous enough to loan or sell some 1/4" clecos? A lot of these tools will be a 1-time use for me, so hard to justify spending a bunch on buying new.
Seems like a mixed opinion on whether the Harbor Freight riveter (they have 3 different ones for sale) will handle those 1/4" steel rivets. I'm hoping to do the 1/4" blind closed end rivets, as they seem to be closest to factory, no? The link Musigenisis threw up seems like the ticket.
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I've used two of the Harbor Freight "Chief" 1/4 inch riveters and both of them failed in just a few months. One split the casting up the front, spewing oil all over. Both pulled 1/4-inch stainless steel rivets just fine with 90 psi...when they worked.
I ended up buying two of the cheaper $75 Harbor Freight 1/4 riveters, thinking I'd have one as a spare. Well, that second one's still in the box. The first one has outlasted the more expensive Chief riveters. The only downside for you will be your compressor limitation. The riveters don't use much air volume, but I had to crank the air pressure up to 110 psi to get the cheaper riveter to pull 1/4-inch stainless rivets. But at that pressure, it does great and it's lasted through over 2000 rivets so far.
I show them in some of our roof raise videos here: https://www.youtube.com/rollingliving
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12-17-2021, 08:21 PM
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#70
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Bus Geek
Join Date: Sep 2014
Location: Eustis FLORIDA
Posts: 23,764
Year: 1999
Coachwork: Thomas
Chassis: Freighliner FS65
Engine: Cat 3126
Rated Cap: 15
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Yeha my $70 HF riveter still works like it did when I got it. Only use it occasionally anymore but I've got some stuff to rivet on our shorty one of these days
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12-17-2021, 10:43 PM
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#71
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Bus Nut
Join Date: Sep 2019
Location: Bly Oregon
Posts: 537
Year: 1986
Coachwork: Crown
Chassis: Supercoach
Engine: Cummins 350 big cam
Rated Cap: 86 passengers?
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I use the black model of the Harbor Freight rivet gun. I haven't set a large number of rivets yet and don't expect to set many more. So far all is good though. I think I set my pressure about 100 psi.
My largest rivets are 1/4".
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02-19-2024, 08:32 PM
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#72
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Mini-Skoolie
Join Date: Dec 2023
Posts: 10
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I’m having the same problem. I have a pneumatic pop rivet gun that’s supposed to work with up to 1/4” rivets. The gun came with a small set of aluminum rivets and they work fine. But when I tried steel rivets it can’t cut the mandrel. The back isn’t deformed and the mandrel won’t cut.
I’m also using a pancake compressor but it can run 120 psi and increasing the psi doesn’t help.
Does anyone know a rivet gun that works well with steel rivet?
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02-19-2024, 09:04 PM
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#73
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Bus Crazy
Join Date: Oct 2020
Location: Florida
Posts: 1,569
Coachwork: Integrated Coach Corp.
Chassis: RE-300 42ft
Engine: 466ci
Rated Cap: 90
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💪Manual Leverage
Quote:
Originally Posted by JenniferWillow
I’m having the same problem. I have a pneumatic pop rivet gun that’s supposed to work with up to 1/4” rivets. The gun came with a small set of aluminum rivets and they work fine. But when I tried steel rivets it can’t cut the mandrel. The back isn’t deformed and the mandrel won’t cut.
I’m also using a pancake compressor but it can run 120 psi and increasing the psi doesn’t help.
Does anyone know a rivet gun that works well with steel rivet?
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----------------------------
I've used this manual tool on 3/16" & 1/4" stainless rivets
Proferred - Rivet Tool& Cleco Plyers
I've installed more than a dozen patches this way. It's slower, but NONE of the rivets or patches have leaked.
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02-19-2024, 09:06 PM
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#74
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Bus Crazy
Join Date: May 2015
Location: Central Tx.
Posts: 1,987
Year: 1999
Chassis: Amtran / International
Engine: DT466E HT 250HP - Md3060
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JenniferWillow
I’m having the same problem. I have a pneumatic pop rivet gun that’s supposed to work with up to 1/4” rivets. The gun came with a small set of aluminum rivets and they work fine. But when I tried steel rivets it can’t cut the mandrel. The back isn’t deformed and the mandrel won’t cut.
I’m also using a pancake compressor but it can run 120 psi and increasing the psi doesn’t help.
Does anyone know a rivet gun that works well with steel rivet?
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I used a HF air rivet gun on my build. Well over 1,000 rivets used. I did find times that cutting the rivet mandrel became an issue but two things I did seemed to really help!
1) keeping the rivet gun well lubed with air tool oil. Yes, it does wonders!
2) keeping the "Head" of the rivet gun tight. Mine seemed top come loose at times. when the gun acted up I just checked/hand tightend and kept on working!
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