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08-31-2015, 09:39 AM
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#1
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Skoolie
Join Date: Jul 2015
Location: New Hampshire
Posts: 228
Year: 2001
Coachwork: Thomas
Chassis: MVP ER
Engine: Cat 3126b 210 HP 605 ftlbs
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Rivet Removal for Skinning
I am just about done with the interior demo of the bus, my next step is to take care of some rust spots in the floor and start skinning the bus.
The rivets above the top rain guard, I think I can reach the back of them with an angle grinder.
If I was to grind the backs off the rivets, do they come out with a little force; or do they have to be drilled to be removed?
I plan on using 18 gauge galvanized metal for the skins, is there going to be an issue with painting over galvanized?
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08-31-2015, 09:49 AM
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#2
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Bus Geek
Join Date: Sep 2014
Location: Eustis FLORIDA
Posts: 23,829
Year: 1999
Coachwork: Thomas
Chassis: Freighliner FS65
Engine: Cat 3126
Rated Cap: 15
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no Issue painting galvanized, but its best to wipe it all down with ospho first. It helps the paint to adhere to galvanized surfaces.
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08-31-2015, 09:55 AM
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#3
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Bus Geek
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Houston, Texas
Posts: 8,462
Year: 1946
Coachwork: Chevrolet/Wayne
Chassis: 1- 1/2 ton
Engine: Cummins 4BT
Rated Cap: 15
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Galvanized (and aluminum) must be etched in order to get paint to adhere. Not a big deal and there are several ways to go about it. But it is a critical step as paint will NOT stick to unprepared galvanized. Mild acid is typically used and it can be anything from a water/muriatic solution to simple white vinegar (much safer to handle...and cheap). Let the acid work a while then rinse, wipe down with a paint prep (any auto parts store) then a coat of "self-etching" primer.
Those steps will provide a solid base for your finish to cling to.
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08-31-2015, 01:49 PM
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#4
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Bus Crazy
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Salt Lake City Utah
Posts: 1,635
Year: 2000
Chassis: Blue Bird
Engine: ISC 8.3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ism minerals
The rivets above the top rain guard, I think I can reach the back of them with an angle grinder.
If I was to grind the backs off the rivets, do they come out with a little force; or do they have to be drilled to be removed?
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I assume those rivets are solid rivets..? I've tried several times, but never had good success removing these by grinding off the back side. It seems to me they must deform into a cone shape, narrow at the head end and wide at the back end. Even if the back side is ground off flat, it seems there's still a little bit of taper that has to be fought and overcome in order to make the rivet go back out the same way it went in.
I recently discovered that eating the head out of the rivet with a plasma cutter works about as well as drilling, doesn't damage the panel if done carefully, and is faster.
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08-31-2015, 06:42 PM
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#5
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Skoolie
Join Date: Jul 2015
Location: New Hampshire
Posts: 228
Year: 2001
Coachwork: Thomas
Chassis: MVP ER
Engine: Cat 3126b 210 HP 605 ftlbs
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Yes they are solid rivets. I guess the drill will have to come out. Do the rivets drill pretty easily (as in soft steel)? The stripped screws that held the roof panels up were pretty hard steel which required a cobalt drill bit and a lot of effort.
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08-31-2015, 10:56 PM
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#6
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Mini-Skoolie
Join Date: Apr 2015
Posts: 21
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Air hammer for the win. I used a chisel to knock off the back then changed to a pointed punch and pushed the rivet out the way it went in. For the ones you cant get to the back on, use a angle grinder to cut a line straight through the center then the chisel knocks the head off super easy and u can push it through with the punch.
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09-01-2015, 07:45 AM
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#7
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Skoolie
Join Date: Jul 2015
Location: New Hampshire
Posts: 228
Year: 2001
Coachwork: Thomas
Chassis: MVP ER
Engine: Cat 3126b 210 HP 605 ftlbs
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Thanks for the advise . I will try the air chisel, but wish I had a plasma cutter to use. Also has anyone used a a bucking bar and cup to put solid rivets back in?
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09-01-2015, 12:15 PM
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#8
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Bus Crazy
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Salt Lake City Utah
Posts: 1,635
Year: 2000
Chassis: Blue Bird
Engine: ISC 8.3
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aaronsb did the solid rivets, bucking bar, air hammer thing on The Broccoli Bus. I'll hopefully be getting to it on mine this coming weekend..
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09-06-2015, 09:10 AM
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#9
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Skoolie
Join Date: Jul 2015
Location: New Hampshire
Posts: 228
Year: 2001
Coachwork: Thomas
Chassis: MVP ER
Engine: Cat 3126b 210 HP 605 ftlbs
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Just an update, the grinder worked fantastic for the back of the rivets. Grind flush to the metal (back side) and use an awl to knock out the rivets. They came out very easily. Glad this worked, as I was going to put some L channel right below the rain guard and just rivet them in there.
Question: Filling rivets, do you fill the rivets with adhesive or body filler after they are installed. It seems to me that the rivets could allow water to penetrate through the hole?
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09-06-2015, 10:57 AM
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#10
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Bus Geek
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Houston, Texas
Posts: 8,462
Year: 1946
Coachwork: Chevrolet/Wayne
Chassis: 1- 1/2 ton
Engine: Cummins 4BT
Rated Cap: 15
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Yes...they should be filled. I personally prefer something like JB Weld to bondo.
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09-06-2015, 11:25 AM
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#11
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Bus Geek
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Stony Plain Alberta Canada
Posts: 2,937
Year: 1992
Coachwork: Bluebird
Chassis: TC2000 FE
Engine: 190hp 5.9 Cummins
Rated Cap: 72
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Same, I use epoxy vs bondo.
Or use solid head rivets.
Nat
__________________
"Don't argue with stupid people. They will just drag you down to their level, and beat you up with experience."
Patently waiting for the apocalypses to level the playing field in this physiological game of life commonly known as Civilization
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09-06-2015, 08:32 PM
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#12
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Skoolie
Join Date: Jul 2015
Location: New Hampshire
Posts: 228
Year: 2001
Coachwork: Thomas
Chassis: MVP ER
Engine: Cat 3126b 210 HP 605 ftlbs
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Thank you for the info
I put some solar seal on the back of the rivets so when they pull in they take in a small amount of the stuff. I will go back to fill the holes in with some JB weld.
First time using a Air riveter, wow I like it.
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09-06-2015, 09:13 PM
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#13
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Bus Geek
Join Date: Sep 2014
Location: Eustis FLORIDA
Posts: 23,829
Year: 1999
Coachwork: Thomas
Chassis: Freighliner FS65
Engine: Cat 3126
Rated Cap: 15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ism minerals
Thank you for the info
I put some solar seal on the back of the rivets so when they pull in they take in a small amount of the stuff. I will go back to fill the holes in with some JB weld.
First time using a Air riveter, wow I like it.
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Which make and model riveter is it?
I have yet to oil my HF one to try it out.
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09-06-2015, 09:21 PM
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#14
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Bus Geek
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Houston, Texas
Posts: 8,462
Year: 1946
Coachwork: Chevrolet/Wayne
Chassis: 1- 1/2 ton
Engine: Cummins 4BT
Rated Cap: 15
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When there are a lot of rivets involved...an air riveter is a lifesaver.
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09-07-2015, 08:00 AM
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#15
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Skoolie
Join Date: Jul 2015
Location: New Hampshire
Posts: 228
Year: 2001
Coachwork: Thomas
Chassis: MVP ER
Engine: Cat 3126b 210 HP 605 ftlbs
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It is the HF rivet gun, got it with a 20% off coupon. So far around 30-40 SS 1/4 rivets, no problems yet. Yesterday was our first panel, we are starting from the back and working towards the front. Hopefully we can get three panels up toady. The full sized panels which are around 9.5-10 ft are going to be a challenge as it is just my Girlfriend and me. We are using some heavy duty magnets to help hold the panels in place. It worked very well for the small panel. We will see how the magnet works for the larger panel.
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09-07-2015, 09:25 AM
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#16
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Bus Geek
Join Date: Sep 2014
Location: Eustis FLORIDA
Posts: 23,829
Year: 1999
Coachwork: Thomas
Chassis: Freighliner FS65
Engine: Cat 3126
Rated Cap: 15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ism minerals
It is the HF rivet gun, got it with a 20% off coupon. So far around 30-40 SS 1/4 rivets, no problems yet. Yesterday was our first panel, we are starting from the back and working towards the front. Hopefully we can get three panels up toady. The full sized panels which are around 9.5-10 ft are going to be a challenge as it is just my Girlfriend and me. We are using some heavy duty magnets to help hold the panels in place. It worked very well for the small panel. We will see how the magnet works for the larger panel.
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Cool...
What method did you use for removing the bottom to add oil? I'm thinking I'll have to grid on it some.
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09-07-2015, 11:10 PM
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#17
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Bus Nut
Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: Snowflake, Arizona
Posts: 350
Year: 1996
Coachwork: Blue Bird
Chassis: All American Rear Engine
Engine: C-8.3-300 Cummins MD3060
Rated Cap: 40 Prisoners
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Forget removing the bottom as the thing is already filled with
oil. That's what we get for reading the instructions first. I took
mine back to HF and traded it for another one which I was able
to get open only to find it was full of oil. Must be something in
the translation from Chinese.
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09-07-2015, 11:12 PM
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#18
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Bus Geek
Join Date: Sep 2014
Location: Eustis FLORIDA
Posts: 23,829
Year: 1999
Coachwork: Thomas
Chassis: Freighliner FS65
Engine: Cat 3126
Rated Cap: 15
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A guy on youtube took his apart and it wasn't full but had some.
I figure I'll pop the bottom off and make sure its full.
They probably do come with oil already but due to their crappy QC they just write it into the instructions that you're supposed to oil it before use.
They love writing off flaws in owners manuals. Like my 2013 subaru that's "ok" burning a quart of oil every 1200 miles.
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09-08-2015, 10:05 AM
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#19
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Skoolie
Join Date: Jul 2015
Location: New Hampshire
Posts: 228
Year: 2001
Coachwork: Thomas
Chassis: MVP ER
Engine: Cat 3126b 210 HP 605 ftlbs
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I just unpacked it and started riveting. Did a quick search last night after working on the bus, seems someone got about 10K rivets done and did not check the oil. They had to adjust the jaws a couple of times though, thanks for pointing the oil thing out. Guess I should read the instructions first, ah no time for that right now.
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09-08-2015, 10:15 AM
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#20
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Bus Geek
Join Date: Sep 2014
Location: Eustis FLORIDA
Posts: 23,829
Year: 1999
Coachwork: Thomas
Chassis: Freighliner FS65
Engine: Cat 3126
Rated Cap: 15
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I'd say if the HF model can even make it through 2000 its worth the $70!
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