Rivets for Ceiling/roof

[EasternOvertime]

Hey guys, i'm getting ready to reinstall my original bus ceiling after taking it down. I'm currently trying to find the right rivets to fasten it back up. So far it looks like i need 1/4 rivets because the holes got wallowed out when i used the air hammer to punch them out. The exact hole size measures 7/32 which looks like it is too big for a 3/16 size rivet according to the data sheets posted on rivet websites. I cannot find any steel body rivets in the 1/4 size, the closest thing i found is an aluminum body w/ a steel mandrel. Is an aluminum body rivet going to be suffice for fastening steel together? The rivets i'm looking at are these... https://www.rivetsonline.com/closed-...4asph/pr84asph

[o1marc]

I'd use screws and save the aggrevation.

[musigenesis]

The site you posted (which is where I got all my rivets) does have all-steel 1/4" rivets: https://www.rivetsonline.com/closed-...4ffph/pr84ffph. These should work for your ceiling panels, although you may have to ream out the holes with a larger drill bit. When I ordered these 1/4" rivets, they turned out to actually be 0.26" in diameter and needed slightly larger holes.

[DeMac]

I'd secure the pieces together, through the factory holes, using several 3/16" clecos, then ream each hole to .26", while securely flanked by clecos. To yield a wrinkle-free appearance.

Are you using a sealant between the two? My factory ceiling skins were glued & screwed, originally. Clecos will quickly align & hold it in place while installing either rivets or screws.



Jay-Cee sells clecos on that same site.

[ewo1]

Originally Posted by o1marc

I'd use screws and save the aggrevation.

I would agree too, screws are much easier than rivets and cheaper too.

Rivet holes need to line up with each other which will require a little bit more extra work and aggravation when compared to self tapping screws.

For the outside skins, I used MGLP-R8-6 MGL STL ZNC PLT rivets sold by byler rivet. Cost me $102 for 300 rivets.