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Old 03-13-2021, 02:25 PM   #21
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Here, hold my beer.
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Old 03-13-2021, 03:09 PM   #22
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It appears there needs to be more of these
I guess it would be a relatively harmless practical joke to lower that sign in the middle of the night. Relative to raising the sign, that is.
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Old 03-15-2021, 11:20 AM   #23
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The offset doesn't concern me as much as the loss of the interior sheet metal. Having the interior metal close in each section between all the ribs, creating a box makes the walls much stronger.

I think I am going to try and use the thin tubing from the seat frames to put gussets between all the ribs, essentially creating a truss. (if they're long enough)

Possibly even add a six or 8 inch strip of sheet metal on the inside, directly below the window. Similar to the factory strip along the bottom.
I had that same thought, sort of like removing one side of a box beam. I'll have a 6" piece from each sheet of steel, I might add it back to the inside like you're talking about. I know a lot of people take out the window cross pieces, I plan to leave those in place and brace around them where I put the new RV windows. I feel like they add rigidity. I'm also going to weld side to side cross bracing in several places in the interior to keep anything from springing out once cut free.
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Old 03-15-2021, 02:18 PM   #24
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One of the best features of a bus is the strength... it'd be a shame to lose it.
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Old 03-15-2021, 04:17 PM   #25
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One of the best features of a bus is the strength... it'd be a shame to lose it.
That's one of the main reasons we decided to go with a bus instead of a typical RV.
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Old 03-17-2021, 03:28 PM   #26
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It makes absolutely no difference whether the cuts are staggered or not. The theory being that the metal at the weld may be weakened and you don't want the weak connections in plane with each other. In this case though we are replacing material that is going to be much stronger than original, so it's a moot argument.
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Old 03-17-2021, 05:04 PM   #27
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It makes absolutely no difference whether the cuts are staggered or not. The theory being that the metal at the weld may be weakened and you don't want the weak connections in plane with each other. In this case though we are replacing material that is going to be much stronger than original, so it's a moot argument.

That's my thinking too. Since I'm not welding in matching hat channels and running the square tube past the cuts I couldn't see where it would matter.
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Old 03-17-2021, 05:08 PM   #28
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That's my thinking too. Since I'm not welding in matching hat channels and running the square tube past the cuts I couldn't see where it would matter.
Whoa, why are you not using square tubing and overlapping. If not doing this I would not gaurantee it would be strong enough. How do you plan on spanning the gap?
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Old 03-17-2021, 05:32 PM   #29
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Whoa, why are you not using square tubing and overlapping. If not doing this I would not gaurantee it would be strong enough. How do you plan on spanning the gap?

You misunderstood, I am spanning the gap with 1 1/4" square tubing and overlapping 12 1/2" top and bottom. It will be both mechanically fastened and welded. Once I have that in place I'll come back and weld in angle iron on each side to secure my sheet metal.
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Old 03-17-2021, 05:51 PM   #30
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You misunderstood, I am spanning the gap with 1 1/4" square tubing and overlapping 12 1/2" top and bottom. It will be both mechanically fastened and welded. Once I have that in place I'll come back and weld in angle iron on each side to secure my sheet metal.
Seemed plain to me when you said
" Since I'm not welding in matching hat channels and running the square tube past the cuts I couldn't see where it would matter."
So you ARE welding square tube past the cuts?
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Old 03-17-2021, 06:09 PM   #31
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Seemed plain to me when you said
" Since I'm not welding in matching hat channels and running the square tube past the cuts I couldn't see where it would matter."
So you ARE welding square tube past the cuts?

Yep, 12 1/2" past top and bottom of the cut. It's going to be a 15" raise and I'm using 40" long square tube to build the frame back. I just meant I wasn't using matching hat channel so I wouldn't have a weld seam that lines up.
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Old 03-17-2021, 09:12 PM   #32
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Yep, 12 1/2" past top and bottom of the cut. It's going to be a 15" raise and I'm using 40" long square tube to build the frame back. I just meant I wasn't using matching hat channel so I wouldn't have a weld seam that lines up.
It's a shame you're not closer, I have 100' of hat channel.
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Old 03-18-2021, 10:53 AM   #33
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It's a shame you're not closer, I have 100' of hat channel.
I found some here locally, but decided the square tube overlap method would probably be stronger and would be less expensive in the long run. I appreciate the thought though.
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