Roof Raise Question

o1marc · 09-30-2019, 08:00 PM

Help me understand what more I can beneficially gain by going more than 10"-12" on a roof raise. That would solve all the headroom problems for anyone. Pros and cons of going higher. Looking at a high headroom bus and want to start the raise where the high top step is now, behind the driver, but dont want a whale hump there. 10" could be subtle.

Iqinsanity · 09-30-2019, 08:34 PM

That seems too personal to answer. 10 inches is a lot, unless you want bunk beds, a really tall fridge, or lots of upper cabinet space there’s not really much benefit.

Cons obviously would be less height under overpasses.

ewo1 · 09-30-2019, 09:25 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by o1marc

Help me understand what more I can beneficially gain by going more than 10"-12" on a roof raise. That would solve all the headroom problems for anyone. Pros and cons of going higher. Looking at a high headroom bus and want to start the raise where the high top step is now, behind the driver, but dont want a whale hump there. 10" could be subtle.

I just did an 18" raise on a bus for a friend so I'll chime in on my thoughts.

Pros:
1) The feeling of Claustrophobia, gone!
2) Since this bus has no underbelly storage, they now have lots of room for storage space/shelf inside the bus. They plan on installing taller cabinets for this.
3) Bunk Beds, they no can go 3 high and not feel like they are packed into a sardine can.
4) looks a hell of a lot nicer with an 18" lift than at stock height

Cons:
1) this bus is going to be under 12'6" so yes, got to watch out for low bridges and low tree limbs.
2) taller bus will catch cross winds more than a standard bus.

My friends bus is only a 35 footer with a short wheel base.

My bus, I thinking of 24" but I'll probably settle at 20". Don't like that frankenstein brow and not sure if I am gonna do a sloped transition yet.

But mine is a 40 footer with a wide wheelbase and lots of underbelly storage, but then I plan on putting in a 2 level murphy bed with a washer and drier underneath, on the floor. That's the goal anyway...

The two buses in the pic, the one on the left got the 18" lift and the one on the right is mine.
It is really impressive when you look at them side by side!

GWRider · 09-30-2019, 09:56 PM

For me the obvious was the headroom. I am somewhat tall and so are some of my friends and relatives. Here are some quick pros and cons:

Pros:
1. Adding thicker insulation on both floor and ceiling.
2. Able to do a large Murphy bed or several bunks.
3. Taller cabinets and more storage.
4. Larger TV that can be mounted higher.
5. Fresh water tank can be inside under bed and still be able to have plenty headroom.
6. Taller bathroom/Rain head shower.
7. Stackable washer/dryer.
8. Able to add transition window or larger windows for more natural light.

Cons:
1. More expense and extended conversion time.
2. Potential clearance issues on some low bridges.
3. Increased Heating/Cooling BTU requirements.
4. Driving during high side winds can be more difficult.
5. Added weight of metal and other materials.
6. Goofy appearance if to tall.
7. More area to clean and maintain (inside and out).

o1marc · 09-30-2019, 09:57 PM

Is the E door on that raise now 18" off the floor? The raise I'm asking about will be a 40'er. Has under storage on both sides. Being RE, I can utilize a lot of space between the frames rails not available on an FE.

EastCoastCB · 10-01-2019, 06:43 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by o1marc

Help me understand what more I can beneficially gain by going more than 10"-12" on a roof raise. That would solve all the headroom problems for anyone. Pros and cons of going higher. Looking at a high headroom bus and want to start the raise where the high top step is now, behind the driver, but dont want a whale hump there. 10" could be subtle.

10" is all the roof raising any sane person needs.

The more subtle the raise the easier it is to make it look good.

MacC · 10-01-2019, 07:08 AM

Excellent OP and excellent comments. We need another that posts pros and cons of the full raise and the sloped raise.

ewo1 · 10-01-2019, 08:07 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by o1marc

Is the E door on that raise now 18" off the floor? The raise I'm asking about will be a 40'er. Has under storage on both sides. Being RE, I can utilize a lot of space between the frames rails not available on an FE.

Yes, the "E" door was raised 18"!

Why - The first thought was that it would be easier to reinstall as the top of the door is curved to match the roof so no mods needed to be done.

Second, to walk out that door, if needed, you don't need to bend down as much. It is much easier to just raise your leg.

Third - there is also the back "E" door which was left in place. so no need to have two doors in where a tall person had to really hunch down to get in and out of.

We have considered replacing the window on that door with an RV window that slides open so while sleeping you can let the cool, fresh night air come in!

Also, we are thinking about locating a storage box that we could put inside the bus, on the floor and place it under the door, accessible from outside the bus, for tools, cables, oil storage.

musigenesis · 10-01-2019, 08:13 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ewo1

Second, to walk out that door, if needed, you don't need to bend down as much. It is much easier to just raise your leg.

Jeez, I'm just imagining the face plant when I catch my foot on that lip.

PNW_Steve · 10-01-2019, 09:38 AM

Sorry Marc.

I have no explanation. 8"-12" seems plenty for most applications.

Walking into my bus, after the 10" roof raise, it seems soon much more spacious. Plenty of room for insulation and still accommodate 6'2" guests comfortably.

ewo1 · 10-01-2019, 12:47 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by musigenesis

Jeez, I'm just imagining the face plant when I catch my foot on that lip.

Yeah or how about that cracked skull from looking up to early wehn walking out the back door!

LMAO....

bridg73988 · 10-02-2019, 07:52 AM

I was originally planning on a 10-12" raise but figured if I'm going to do it then I should DO IT! Two things prompted me to go 18".
1) If I use 4ft wide sheet metal to skin and don't cut it, it fits nicely on about an 18" lift.
2) 18" lift would allow me to accommodate a loft-like bunk for my kid in the sleeping area of the bus.

bridg73988 · 10-02-2019, 07:55 AM

Oh, and while we are talking roof raising...does anyone have a good source for hat channel (ribs) or know of a good place to get it made in the New Orleans, LA to Mobile, AL area?

EastCoastCB · 10-02-2019, 09:27 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by bridg73988

Oh, and while we are talking roof raising...does anyone have a good source for hat channel (ribs) or know of a good place to get it made in the New Orleans, LA to Mobile, AL area?

Any fab shop with a press brake should be able to make em.

JLPILES · 10-02-2019, 10:57 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by PNW_Steve

Sorry Marc.

I have no explanation. 8"-12" seems plenty for most applications.

Walking into my bus, after the 10" roof raise, it seems soon much more spacious. Plenty of room for insulation and still accommodate 6'2" guests comfortably.

I am 6'3" - would you recommend going 12" at that point?

EastCoastCB · 10-02-2019, 01:20 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JLPILES

I am 6'3" - would you recommend going 12" at that point?

I had a standard low roof. Raised it 10". New owner is 6'3" and can stand ON the wheel wells and still have room.

PNW_Steve · 10-02-2019, 01:37 PM

I went 10" and have plenty of clearance. Pics:

http://www.skoolie.net/forums/f11/pn...tml#post267633

o1marc · 10-02-2019, 02:36 PM

I'm looking at having a quantity of hat channel made. These need to be the same length as the raise, butt welded and then the square tube welded into the channel, correct?
Does it really matter if they are cold rolled or galvanized?

o1marc · 10-02-2019, 02:48 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by PNW_Steve

I went 10" and have plenty of clearance. Pics:

http://www.skoolie.net/forums/f11/pn...tml#post267633

How much overlap did you use on the tubing?

EastCoastCB · 10-02-2019, 02:59 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by o1marc

I'm looking at having a quantity of hat channel made. These need to be the same length as the raise, butt welded and then the square tube welded into the channel, correct?
Does it really matter if they are cold rolled or galvanized?

I'd skip the "hat" and just have some SNUG fitting C channel made.
That would give you more flexibility.
The way those guys are making and selling that hat channel in Colorado makes no sense to me. But I understand why they're just cashing in.
I'd use hot rolled if its cheaper.

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