Rust reformer/converter

[adic27]

What's considered the best these days. I was looking at rustoleum rust reformer on Amazon.. is 90 bucks for a gallon accurate?? I used this before, some years back..

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B014LR5PA2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_fabc_SAW6BTAGDDV5S0VT4H65?_enco ding=UTF8&psc=1

Think I got a little left bit its been sitting over the past few years. Is it ok to use it after sitting years?? I only have to hit a few spots of rust that resurfaced due to leaving my bus uncovered for a while and rain leaking into the windows. Wondering if I should just wire wheel where needed and get something in a spray cab for touching up then repaint. Had to grind where I painted the seat holes so I can patch weld em all. Was thinking to paint the walls and ceiling too but without rust converter since there's none what so ever

Anyone have any experience with this stuff?

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003HG48AC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_fabc_1BQ58KACDPTV1TWE62XT?_enco ding=UTF8&psc=1

Thanks

[TJones]

That is way overpriced. I got 2 gallons of rustoleum rust converter for around $50 this summer from menards.

https://www.menards.com/main/paint/s...4453083989.htm

Ted

[Honeydipped]

The rust reformer is pretty good stuff. Unfortunately, that price is about how much it really is for that product. I decided to pull the trigger on it because of this study: http://ncptt.nps.gov/wp-content/uplo...-88.pdf?1ef327. I’ve liked it so far. I wanted something good for the underside of the bus before I primed and painted. I think there is an expiration timeframe once you open it, but it wouldn’t hurt trying it out if you still have some.

I’ve been wanting to try this stuff (https://www.theruststore.com/Rust-Co...on-P40C10.aspx). It’s also a tannic acid converter with a polymer finish. I just don’t know anyone who has tried it, but the price is a little better.

For the inside I’m just going to go with ospho before I prime and paint.

[EastCoastCB]

Originally Posted by adic27

What's considered the best these days. I was looking at rustoleum rust reformer on Amazon.. is 90 bucks for a gallon accurate?? I used this before, some years back..

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B014LR5PA2...ing=UTF8&psc=1

Think I got a little left bit its been sitting over the past few years. Is it ok to use it after sitting years?? I only have to hit a few spots of rust that resurfaced due to leaving my bus uncovered for a while and rain leaking into the windows. Wondering if I should just wire wheel where needed and get something in a spray cab for touching up then repaint. Had to grind where I painted the seat holes so I can patch weld em all. Was thinking to paint the walls and ceiling too but without rust converter since there's none what so ever

Anyone have any experience with this stuff?

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003HG48AC...ing=UTF8&psc=1

Thanks

The stuff in the spray cans is kinda devious- its just black spray paint.
The REAL Rust Reformer is a milky liquid that comes in quarts or gallons. Its around $70 a gallon or so but well worth it.

[ISAF2009]

Originally Posted by EastCoastCB

The stuff in the spray cans is kinda devious- its just black spray paint.
The REAL Rust Reformer is a milky liquid that comes in quarts or gallons. Its around $70 a gallon or so but well worth it.

Wrong yet again, have you ever used the product you are talking about? Rust reformer in the can works well and has a tannic acid content to neutralize the rust. Myself as well as many other auto body and repair PROFESSIONALS use this product with great results. It dries so hard you can hardly chip it. Yes it has black spray paint in it but it’s not devious nor is it just black spray paint.

[adic27]

Originally Posted by EastCoastCB

The stuff in the spray cans is kinda devious- its just black spray paint.
The REAL Rust Reformer is a milky liquid that comes in quarts or gallons. Its around $70 a gallon or so but well worth it.

The first link I posted is milky. You think it's as good as the rustoleum one?

[Meathead]

I have used the Gemplers, milky stuff, with mixed success. One time I used it on a new porch rail and I don’t think I had enf rust to activate the stuff.

I’ve used the rustolium milky with a little more success.

These days, for slightly to mildly rusted parts I use Ace rusty metal primer. My hardware man says it is the exact same as rustolium. Made by rustolium.
That’s what I should have used on my porch rail.
I think??

How’s that for mucking up the waters?

Peace

[EastCoastCB]

Originally Posted by adic27

The first link I posted is milky. You think it's as good as the rustoleum one?

If its tannic based.

I've had great results with the milky stuff. The spray can was just black spray paint far as I can tell. I'm sure it has *some* additive that makes it technically different.
But the milky stuff- that's the best I've ever tried.

[adic27]

Originally Posted by EastCoastCB

If its tannic based.

I've had great results with the milky stuff. The spray can was just black spray paint far as I can tell. I'm sure it has *some* additive that makes it technically different.
But the milky stuff- that's the best I've ever tried.

I've been told the same thing by a guy who is pretty handyman savvy. Works on a lot of different projects and used used to work on airplanes for about 30 years.


A few quick questions:

Dose the silver spots in the image need rustoleum? Or since there's no rust just paint over it after I patch weld?

I was gonna paint the ceiling and walls. Did you guys or would you recommend/against it? If so should I put a coat of rustoleum first?

Thanks

[ISAF2009]

The rustoleum rust reformer in a can doesn't stick well to non rusty metal. Regular rustoleum would work better. Our snowplough and salt truck in Maine is held together with this stuff. I cannot stress enough how good of a product that spray is. I have probably bought 300 cans of it.

[Danjo]

I used the Loctite stuff and it looks like it did a great job. It’s also the primer coat

NO galvanized with this product

[musigenesis]

Originally Posted by adic27

Dose the silver spots in the image need rustoleum? Or since there's no rust just paint over it after I patch weld?

Unless the paint is formulated to be applied directly to bare metal, you'd want to prime it first. Rusto makes a clean metal primer which works very well, but the brown primer meant for rusty metal seems to work fine on clean metal as well.

Originally Posted by adic27

I was gonna paint the ceiling and walls. Did you guys or would you recommend/against it? If so should I put a coat of rustoleum first?

I only painted the walls where they were badly rusted in a couple of spots. The rest of my walls and ceiling survived unblemished for 18 years, anywhere they didn't get leaked on, so I didn't see the need to do anything heroic with them.

[EastCoastCB]

I've been using this stuff on raw steel.
https://www.semproducts.com/product/...-primer/primer

[musigenesis]

Originally Posted by EastCoastCB

I've been using this stuff on raw steel.
https://www.semproducts.com/product/...-primer/primer

This stuff also works great on galvanized.

[EastCoastCB]

Originally Posted by musigenesis

This stuff also works great on galvanized.

Just sprayed some galvaneal with it. Seems to be really good stuff.

[adic27]

Originally Posted by EastCoastCB

I've been using this stuff on raw steel.
https://www.semproducts.com/product/...-primer/primer

By itself in place of rustoleum and painting? Or after rustoleum? Is the spary just as effective as the big can?

[musigenesis]

Originally Posted by adic27

By itself in place of rustoleum and painting? Or after rustoleum? Is the spary just as effective as the big can?

The SEM is a primer, so you would apply it to the bare metal, let it dry and then paint with whatever oil-based paint you're going to use. The spray is good for any visible surface that you want to have perfectly smooth (it dries perfectly flat). Brushing the stuff on will leave streaks, but if it's in an area that won't be seen (like your floor, maybe) it's cheaper than the rattle can.

[adic27]

Originally Posted by musigenesis

Unless the paint is formulated to be applied directly to bare metal, you'd want to prime it first. Rusto makes a clean metal primer which works very well, but the brown primer meant for rusty metal seems to work fine on clean metal as well.



I only painted the walls where they were badly rusted in a couple of spots. The rest of my walls and ceiling survived unblemished for 18 years, anywhere they didn't get leaked on, so I didn't see the need to do anything heroic with them.

Makes total sense. I have no rust on neither them. I was just gonna paint em for a clean look but then I saw the price of the oil based paint and changed my mine. I didn't realize I paid that much before (painted the floor years ago). Besides, it'll be covered by spray foam insulation any so why bother

[adic27]

Originally Posted by musigenesis

The SEM is a primer, so you would apply it to the bare metal, let it dry and then paint with whatever oil-based paint you're going to use. The spray is good for any visible surface that you want to have perfectly smooth (it dries perfectly flat). Brushing the stuff on will leave streaks, but if it's in an area that won't be seen (like your floor, maybe) it's cheaper than the rattle can.

Well I figure since the spots in the image above aren't rusty and any rust that has started to resurface from the rain/leaky windows isn't that bad I'll just use the rustoleum rust reformer in a can. Besides I purchased 4 cans today for under the bus and under the hood. Is it not as effective as the SEM?

[Sharee100]

I just checked the Amazon link you posted. Price is not $90. It was $50.