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Old 01-23-2020, 05:05 PM   #21
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@ The Hubbard Bus

When you fastened your subfloor and ply or which ever method you used to build up the floor, did you penetrate the newly sealed deck? If you did how do you think it will hold up? I am interested in your opinion.
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Old 01-23-2020, 05:12 PM   #22
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Originally Posted by DoxieLuvr2015 View Post
@ The Hubbard Bus

When you fastened your subfloor and ply or which ever method you used to build up the floor, did you penetrate the newly sealed deck? If you did how do you think it will hold up? I am interested in your opinion.
is this for me?
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Old 01-23-2020, 08:47 PM   #23
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We haven't put down a sub-floor yet.
We've got a number of holes to make that aren't there now - floor vented water heater, propane lines, sink drain, etc. Ideally I'd have cut them all out before painting, but we're sure not 100% on the location of everything yet, & we wanted to seal the floor as soon as the weather allowed as our roof had leaks we weren't ready to address.
When we do cut holes, they'll all be sealed w/ one of a couple different types of 3M moisture cured urethane sealants. I also have a sealed pint of paint left over for touch-ups or anything we might have missed.
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Old 01-24-2020, 03:46 AM   #24
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Truthseeker, this should be the data sheet of what you used. Confirm that's the case though:


https://www.paintdocs.com/docs/webPD...&prodno=B50NZ3


2 things: Steel does not mean galvanized steel (might as well be 2 different metals as far as paint goes), & even w/ steel it sounds like you really need to prep the surface well for this to adhere. If you didn't acid-etch (ospho, as per the discussion above) I wouldn't be surprised if you have adhesion problems. That being said, I don't think coming up with thinner would be unexpected. It's a single-part (non-catalyzed) paint, so it's always going to be susceptible to the right thinners. It's meant to be top-coated. The clean-up directions specify using thinner. Also, as a single-stage, solvent-borne paint (the paint 'hardens' exclusively by solvent evaporation), it's probably not unusual for it to be off-gassing for some time. You might speed it up w/ forced ventilation.
Yes that's it and yeah no acid-etching was done, wasn't aware that I should/needed to. That said it is withstanding foot traffic rather well as I swung it by my auto servicing instructor's class and the whole class piled onto the bus. Sliding seats or anything else sharp will scratch down to bare metal, my generator sliding around does not tho. And for skirting the minimum application temperature it looks basically the same as when I applied.

Also your explanation of what type of paint it is would explain the smell.
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Old 01-30-2020, 02:56 AM   #25
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Originally Posted by Jolly Roger bus 223 View Post
a plain old white vinegar wipe down will take the coating down enough for the paint to adhere on galvanized areas especially new metal that you want to prep for paint.
still need an ospho or something of that nature for the rusty areas



That's what we did for many years in construction, etch with plain old white vinegar brushed/wiped on, dried, wipe off and paint. Seemed to work, but I never really checked the jobs years later to see the results.



But we usually painted with latex or oil based paints. I stayed out of this, until now, because I don't have experience with the new paints. On steel, my understanding is that phosphoric acid converts the rust to iron phosphate, maybe it just etches galvanized like vinegar. Most brand name phosphoric acid products also claim to have additives to make them superior (and charge more $$). Who knows? Not me.
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