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Old 04-10-2023, 05:18 PM   #21
Skoolie
 
Join Date: Dec 2022
Location: Greenville, SC
Posts: 130
Year: 1991
Coachwork: Bluebird
Chassis: TC2000
Engine: Cummins 5.9
Any feedback based on those pics^

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Old 04-10-2023, 06:27 PM   #22
Skoolie
 
Join Date: Jul 2015
Location: New Hampshire
Posts: 219
Year: 2001
Coachwork: Thomas
Chassis: MVP ER
Engine: Cat 3126b 210 HP 605 ftlbs
Hi nick,


If it helps I cut a single channel hat and welded in some angle iron around the perimeter of the window behind the skin so when i screwed the windows into place it had something to bit into. I did not have the interior trim rings when i bought them. They seem to be very solid and do not leak thank to a good butyl tape seal. there is probally a better way to do it, but it worked for me
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Old 04-11-2023, 01:36 PM   #23
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Join Date: Apr 2023
Location: Eastern Washington
Posts: 8
Year: 2007
Engine: Maxxforce 7
Hi! I think I may be able to help with a little "how to" on the windows... pics included! https://imgur.com/a/jwhWgtf



My wife and I decided to remove our bus windows because everyone seems to say the same thing. "Bus windows have a bad R value and you can never stop them from leaking."

First of all, we skinned the entire bus and removed all the windows. Finding RV windows was easy. We found about 8 windows for $100 on Craigslist. Then I bought about 4 new ones off of ebay.

I recommend using a cutoff wheel on an angle grinder to cut out the window holes in the sheet. Some people prefer to use a jigsaw, but I am a steel fabricator and am pretty proficient with an angle grinder.

If the window is bigger than the normal bus windows, you'll have to remove the hat channel that is in the way. I decided to add a 1 1/2" x 1 1/2" x 1/8" tube as a header and welded it to the hat channel stub. Probably overkill, but I wanted to ensure that if a tree fell on the bus, it had some extra support over the windows. I also added another tube horizontally along the bottom of the sil. Which is DEFINITELY overkill.

My wife pre-built all the window frames before hand. The frame simply attaches to the wall framing (we did the horizontal strapping method suggested by Chuck Cassidy). In fact, the window install method we used is also from Chuck Cassidy. https://youtu.be/oF0vLASUz1o

Make sure to sprayfoam all gaps and put a layer of butyl tape anywhere wood touches metal to stave off any moisture and temperature transfer.

Good luck to you!
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