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11-26-2019, 11:02 AM
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#1
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Bus Geek
Join Date: Sep 2018
Posts: 2,831
Year: 2007
Coachwork: Thomas Built
Chassis: Minotour
Engine: Chevy Express 3500 6.6l
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Screw Holes
I知 getting ready for paint. I致e been doing all the modifications to the outside before the paint. This includes changing rub rail placement. Now I have holes to fill. I figure I had better ask now so I won稚 have to fix later.
I知 filling screw holes in the aluminum skin with JB Weld. Anyone think this is a bad idea?
Question: I知 removing the lights from the fiberglass ends. I知 going to reinstall these and I知 worried about the fiberglass holding the screw again. I suppose I could go to the next screw size, but was thinking about using something in the hole to hold the existing screws. Any ideas?
Thanks
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11-26-2019, 11:04 AM
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#2
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Bus Geek
Join Date: Sep 2014
Location: Eustis FLORIDA
Posts: 23,764
Year: 1999
Coachwork: Thomas
Chassis: Freighliner FS65
Engine: Cat 3126
Rated Cap: 15
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body filler would work and much cheaper and easier to use than jb weld.
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11-26-2019, 11:10 AM
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#3
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Bus Crazy
Join Date: Apr 2019
Location: SW USA
Posts: 2,064
Year: 2003
Coachwork: IC / Amtran
Chassis: CE300
Engine: International T444e
Rated Cap: 23
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Yeah, I think it's a bad idea, assuming you want them to stay filled. In my experience cured JB weld has zero flexibility, and is very much prone to cracking/chipping over time.
__________________
Go away. 'Baitin.
Our Build: Mr. Beefy
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11-26-2019, 11:11 AM
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#4
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Bus Geek
Join Date: Sep 2018
Posts: 2,831
Year: 2007
Coachwork: Thomas Built
Chassis: Minotour
Engine: Chevy Express 3500 6.6l
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Quote:
Originally Posted by EastCoastCB
body filler would work and much cheaper and easier to use than jb weld.
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I知 only doing about 25 holes so a small pack of JB weld is enough.. I thought JB weld would hold the hole better.
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11-26-2019, 04:45 PM
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#5
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Bus Geek
Join Date: Dec 2017
Location: Dawsonville, Ga.
Posts: 10,482
Year: 1999
Coachwork: Genesis
Chassis: International
Engine: DT466/3060
Rated Cap: 77
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Machine screws and nuts if you can access the back side.
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11-26-2019, 05:28 PM
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#6
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Bus Crazy
Join Date: Aug 2019
Location: Moved to Zealand!
Posts: 1,517
Year: 2002
Coachwork: Thomas
Chassis: Freightliner FS-65
Engine: 7.2L Cat 3126 turbo diesel
Rated Cap: 71 passenger 30,000 gvwr
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Danjo
SNIP...
Question: I知 removing the lights from the fiberglass ends. I知 going to reinstall these and I知 worried about the fiberglass holding the screw again. I suppose I could go to the next screw size, but was thinking about using something in the hole to hold the existing screws. Any ideas?
Thanks
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Rivnuts.
And once you own the tool, you'll use it for other stuff!
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11-26-2019, 06:26 PM
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#7
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Bus Crazy
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: Andrews,Indiana
Posts: 2,437
Year: 1991
Coachwork: Bluebird
Chassis: AARE
Engine: 3116 Cat 250hp
Rated Cap: Just the two of us.
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JB weld is pretty runny for quite a while. I think you would have trouble getting it to stay until set.
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11-26-2019, 06:53 PM
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#8
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Bus Geek
Join Date: Sep 2018
Posts: 2,831
Year: 2007
Coachwork: Thomas Built
Chassis: Minotour
Engine: Chevy Express 3500 6.6l
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Quote:
Originally Posted by somewhereinusa
JB weld is pretty runny for quite a while. I think you would have trouble getting it to stay until set.
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Actually it worked great that way. I used a swab stick to put it in and get some on the inside, then I fill up the hole. It runs a little but stays put.
It痴 pretty hard, so it sands at a slower rate than the paint. So far it痴 working. Maybe I should try to destroy a patch to see how it holds up.
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11-26-2019, 09:27 PM
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#9
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Bus Geek
Join Date: Jan 2019
Location: Philadelphia
Posts: 7,000
Year: 2003
Coachwork: International
Chassis: CE 300
Engine: DT466e
Rated Cap: 65C-43A
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Danjo
I知 filling screw holes in the aluminum skin with JB Weld. Anyone think this is a bad idea?
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Are you talking about Steelstick? I used that to fill the holes from when I drilled out the stops on my windows (it's a NY bus thing), but I found that unless I put a bit of a dome on both sides of the hole (making it like a steelstick rivet, sort of) it would pop out of the hole easily - like, it doesn't adhere to the material at all (this was in aluminum windows).
Bondo is pretty easy for little holes, although a random orbital sander is a must for that stuff.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Danjo
Question: I知 removing the lights from the fiberglass ends. I知 going to reinstall these and I知 worried about the fiberglass holding the screw again. I suppose I could go to the next screw size, but was thinking about using something in the hole to hold the existing screws. Any ideas?
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I second the rivnuts suggestion. I used them when I replaced my rear lights with LEDs. My original metal was pretty floppy, so I put a 1/8" steel plate behind the lights and ran the rivnuts through that and the bus skin. I used closed rivnuts so the screws would be watertight without needing to be gooped up with anything.
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11-26-2019, 09:46 PM
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#10
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Bus Geek
Join Date: Sep 2018
Posts: 2,831
Year: 2007
Coachwork: Thomas Built
Chassis: Minotour
Engine: Chevy Express 3500 6.6l
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I’m worried that a rivnut will crack the fiberglass. Anyone with firsthand knowledge?
Maybe I can jbweld them in
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11-26-2019, 09:48 PM
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#11
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Bus Crazy
Join Date: Aug 2019
Location: Moved to Zealand!
Posts: 1,517
Year: 2002
Coachwork: Thomas
Chassis: Freightliner FS-65
Engine: 7.2L Cat 3126 turbo diesel
Rated Cap: 71 passenger 30,000 gvwr
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Danjo
I知 worried that a rivnut will crack the fiberglass. Anyone with firsthand knowledge?
Maybe I can jbweld them in
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Use a back-up washer to spread the load.
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11-26-2019, 10:32 PM
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#12
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Bus Geek
Join Date: Jan 2019
Location: Philadelphia
Posts: 7,000
Year: 2003
Coachwork: International
Chassis: CE 300
Engine: DT466e
Rated Cap: 65C-43A
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Something else you might try is bondo metal, which is metal-reinforced filler that is harder than normal and tappable. When I replaced my headlights and headlight housings, some of the various screws had pulled out chunks of the fiberglass mountings. I cleaned the big chunk holes thoroughly and filled them with bondo metal and then redrilled the holes. I didn't tap them but just ran sheet metal screws in and they're holding well. The filler seems to adhere well to the fiberglass.
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11-27-2019, 12:02 AM
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#13
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Bus Geek
Join Date: Sep 2014
Location: Eustis FLORIDA
Posts: 23,764
Year: 1999
Coachwork: Thomas
Chassis: Freighliner FS65
Engine: Cat 3126
Rated Cap: 15
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I like the fiberglass bondo type fillers.
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11-27-2019, 05:51 AM
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#14
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Bus Geek
Join Date: Jan 2019
Location: Philadelphia
Posts: 7,000
Year: 2003
Coachwork: International
Chassis: CE 300
Engine: DT466e
Rated Cap: 65C-43A
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Quote:
Originally Posted by EastCoastCB
I like the fiberglass bondo type fillers.
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That stuff doesn't hold a screw very well, though, does it?
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