Sealing the Roof

[lornaschinske]

I used Snow Roof's Elastometric on the Class C (roof coating, "tape"& primer) works wonders and no more leaks on the roof. Lowered the summer temps quite a bit. Down side is I have a "dip" towards the rear and Snow Roof doesn't like standing water (ponding is what they call it). So if you have a flat roof, you need to watch for that. I did the roof in 2006 or 2007 and had to have the primer ordered in.

For the skoolie (rounded roof, no standing water) we used Henry's Solar-flex from Home Depot. I used the "tape" I had left over from doing the Class C and embedded it into the Henry's to seal leaks. Then put two coats of roof coating on the roof. Really needed three coats but it was too hot. Henry's makes a clear elastometric caulk that you can use to seal leaks with (I have bought several tubes at Home Depot. Apply on WET or dry surfaces. The large 4.75 gallon bucket will cover a 40 ft bus with 3 coats. I used a paint roller.

[RavensOracle]

I used an elastomeric roof coating I picked up from Lowes on the metal roof of an old shed on our property. The thing had been leaking for years before we even bought the land. Two 5 gallon pails covered the carport sized roof with several coats. I did notice a difference during the summer while I was working out there after the coating was applied. It also saved me from having to replace what was otherwise a decent roof. I am planning on doing the same thing with my bus when I paint it next spring.

[PigPen]

When caulking, taping, and painting, what order is best?

Yes, I know I'm digging up a very old thread

My plan was to paint everythin, then put down tape and caulk.

[BowserJournal]

Originally Posted by lornaschinske

I used Snow Roof's Elastometric on the Class C (roof coating, "tape"& primer) works wonders and no more leaks on the roof. Lowered the summer temps quite a bit. Down side is I have a "dip" towards the rear and Snow Roof doesn't like standing water (ponding is what they call it). So if you have a flat roof, you need to watch for that. I did the roof in 2006 or 2007 and had to have the primer ordered in.

For the skoolie (rounded roof, no standing water) we used Henry's Solar-flex from Home Depot. I used the "tape" I had left over from doing the Class C and embedded it into the Henry's to seal leaks. Then put two coats of roof coating on the roof. Really needed three coats but it was too hot. Henry's makes a clear elastometric caulk that you can use to seal leaks with (I have bought several tubes at Home Depot. Apply on WET or dry surfaces. The large 4.75 gallon bucket will cover a 40 ft bus with 3 coats. I used a paint roller.

That is great advice! I will look into it after we patch our emergency hatches.

[bstewrat3]

I am getting ready to do my roof with the Henrys 287 in a few days. My roof isn't currently leaking, but my plan is to brush all of the seams with a good coat and let it fully cure, then go over everything with a roller. I don't know that using tape or other sealers would even be necessary.

[EastCoastCB]

I'm just gonna run tape on each side of every roof seam about 3/16's apart, then seam seal it with the 3m stuff, pull the tape off, then after it cures for a day I'll paint my roof.
Thats the closest to how it would be from the factory.

[fabrini]

I learned about the Henry's 287 from this forum. I emailed the company and asked a question about using their product over another sealant. The company recommended I use their tubed sealant for gaps with a top coat of Henry's 887HS. I had really bad leaks from some of the seams as well as one of the emergency roof exits. I took their advice. The 887HS was $55 a gallon, but if it kept me dry, it was worth it. I used their caulk on the seams on Friday. Put a coat of 887 over the caulk on Saturday morning. 2 hours later rolled a top coat on and let it sit. Sunday, we got a massive rain storm here. The 887HS worked like a champ! Not a drop from anywhere on the ceiling. It was worth the extra money.

[Stu & Filo. T]

There's always this, runs about $100.00 ft

Welcome to RV Armor - Home

[Robin97396]

So which ones are like .05 or .10 cents per foot?

A couple years ago there was a tube of seam sealer people used before painting. Now there's treatments and primers about five layers deep. Five layers of plain old paint would seal most people's leaks too.

RV Armor seemed to be a little shy about displaying their prices. Probably more like embaressed.

[BowserJournal]

Originally Posted by EastCoastCB

I'm just gonna run tape on each side of every roof seam about 3/16's apart, then seam seal it with the 3m stuff, pull the tape off, then after it cures for a day I'll paint my roof.
Thats the closest to how it would be from the factory.

on top or from the inside of the bus? I am putting in our floor soon and don't want it wet from leaks.

[EastCoastCB]

Originally Posted by BowserJournal

on top or from the inside of the bus? I am putting in our floor soon and don't want it wet from leaks.

Up on top.

[Defjr333]

WTF..............No FlexSeal? Saw a youtube vid of guy actually used this on his RV. Said it used to leak all the time, twice recoated by RV dealer did nothing till he used....FLEXSEAL. Hey if it keeps a boat "cut in half" afloat.........
Doug

[BowserJournal]

Originally Posted by Defjr333

WTF..............No FlexSeal? Saw a youtube vid of guy actually used this on his RV. Said it used to leak all the time, twice recoated by RV dealer did nothing till he used....FLEXSEAL. Hey if it keeps a boat "cut in half" afloat.........
Doug

Have you priced that stuff?


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[o1marc]

Originally Posted by BowserJournal

Have you priced that stuff?


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$90 a gallon.

[Tango]

You will not find a better seam sealer than urethane "Seam Sealer". Found online and at automotive paint & body supply shops. 3M brand is an OEM product used on most American vehicles at the factory. Stays flexible, is paintable and is UV resistant.

[EastCoastCB]

Originally Posted by Tango

You will not find a better seam sealer than urethane "Seam Sealer". Found online and at automotive paint & body supply shops. 3M brand is an OEM product used on most American vehicles at the factory. Stays flexible, is paintable and is UV resistant.

Yeah, a tube or two of real seam sealer is all it takes.

[Sunshine Travels]

Originally Posted by EastCoastCB

I'm just gonna run tape on each side of every roof seam about 3/16's apart, then seam seal it with the 3m stuff, pull the tape off, then after it cures for a day I'll paint my roof.
Thats the closest to how it would be from the factory.

What type of 3m sealer did you wind up using ? I’m still trying to decide between using Eternabond on the roof seams or do what you suggested.

[EastCoastCB]

Originally Posted by Sunshine Travels

What type of 3m sealer are you going to use ?

I use Dynatron 550. Its $15 a tube. Usually available at Autozone.

[Lubert]

Originally Posted by EastCoastCB

I use Dynatron 550. Its $15 a tube. Usually available at Autozone.

I know I'm digging up an older thread but from everything I've read I think I'll be going with the Dynatron 550 you've suggested. Do you know (aprox) how many we'd need for a full size bus?

I also have gone from dead-set on Henry's to trying to decide between Snow Seal and just plain 'ol flat white. Do you have any opinions on that matter? I've been reading through every thread I can get my fingers on!



Lubertha

[TheArgobus]

What are you using it for?


I used it to reseal the windows on my bus (4 window shortie) and went through probably two tubes on just that. But I was not using it correctly and definitely over using it. This **** does work though.