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Old 04-24-2015, 10:26 AM   #21
Bus Crazy
 
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You were right the first time. Denatured and rubbing are different alcohols (ethanol vs propanol). The former is the "active ingredient" in your beer. When sold as denatured, it has other additives blended in to make it highly unsuitable for human consumption -- thus "denatured."

But anyway, even though they're different, both should work equally well for prepping the surface for silicone.

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Old 04-24-2015, 12:06 PM   #22
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Originally Posted by family wagon View Post
You were right the first time. Denatured and rubbing are different alcohols (ethanol vs propanol). The former is the "active ingredient" in your beer. When sold as denatured, it has other additives blended in to make it highly unsuitable for human consumption -- thus "denatured."

But anyway, even though they're different, both should work equally well for prepping the surface for silicone.
Good to know. I guess I'm only a partial dumbass...
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Old 05-03-2015, 08:04 AM   #23
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On a slightly different use,

I plan to remove a number of windows from the sides of my bus ... and replace them with a sheet of mild steel (16 or 18 guage), insulate the hole, and cover the blank space in the interior with what ever material I will install on the walls.

To save time and work, I might like to glue and rivet in the steel. I would like this to be a permanent modification.

What type of panel adhesive might work in this situation?
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Old 05-03-2015, 09:05 AM   #24
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What type of panel adhesive might work in this situation?
Por 15 paint is listed as a steel adhesive.

3M makes a two sided tape specifically for this purpose. A guy on pirate 4x4 built a hard sided off road camper using only this tape, no mechanical fasteners. He uses it in Australia where the heat is extreme.

Nat
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Old 05-03-2015, 09:12 AM   #25
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I've used 3M VHB double sided tape on a couple of panels on my bus (one of them shown here) that's held up through a South Jersey summer (hot and humid) and winter and has yet to let go. I plan to continue to use it for the windows I plan to pull and sheet over.
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Old 05-03-2015, 02:23 PM   #26
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What kind of water resistance does that tape have?
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Old 05-03-2015, 02:28 PM   #27
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What kind of water resistance does that tape have?
I wouldn't build a boat with it, but as long as the two pieces are dry when applying, it doesn't come off. And so far, I've seen no leaks with it yet.
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Old 05-03-2015, 03:42 PM   #28
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I wouldn't build a boat with it, but as long as the two pieces are dry when applying, it doesn't come off. And so far, I've seen no leaks with it yet.
This sounds like what I'm looking for.

Throw in some rivets, maybe some sealant on the seam ... insulate and install the interior walls.

Maybe 3M should change the name of this product to Window-Be-Gone.

Thanks!
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Old 05-04-2015, 05:41 AM   #29
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This sounds like what I'm looking for.

Throw in some rivets, maybe some sealant on the seam ... insulate and install the interior walls.

Maybe 3M should change the name of this product to Window-Be-Gone.

Thanks!
I wouldn't even bother with rivets. Tape, seal, insulate and install. As Nat posted earlier, if a guy in Oz can build an offroad camper with VHB and no mechanical fasteners, then window replacement should be no problem as well.
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Old 12-18-2020, 01:13 PM   #30
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There are a couple of varieties of automotive Seam Sealer that work like gangbusters. The urethane type comes in several colors, is totally waterproof,never dries out, is paintable in 30-45 minutes, won't shrink or crack and is unaffected by UV and chemicals. And while it is tough stuff can usually be "peeled" or scraped off without too much hassle. The 3M variety is just one of several that are OEM speced by the automakers.

There is also a heavy duty two-part epoxy variety that is a different animal, but very useful too.

PS...Butyl tape is great too, but works best between two smooth, flat surfaces. If there are any variances, the fluid application is better at filling in any voids.
Hello Tango -

What size butyl tape would you suggest? And any suggestions for urethane that is okay for cold weather application while still UV protecting? We were looking at 3M dinatron or Sika 221 until we realized its not cold weather app approved. SO looking instead at sika Arctic 2c.


Thankyou!
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Old 12-18-2020, 03:47 PM   #31
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Hello Tango -

What size butyl tape would you suggest? And any suggestions for urethane that is okay for cold weather application while still UV protecting? We were looking at 3M dinatron or Sika 221 until we realized its not cold weather app approved. SO looking instead at sika Arctic 2c.


Thankyou!
Tango unfortunately is no longer with us. He passed away last year. He represented all that is good in the skoolie universe and he'll forever be missed.
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Old 12-18-2020, 04:22 PM   #32
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Tango unfortunately is no longer with us. He passed away last year. He represented all that is good in the skoolie universe and he'll forever be missed.
I am so sorry to hear this. A bow of gratitude to him, and the path he generously lay for others to follow. I have been grateful for so many of his posts.
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Old 10-27-2021, 10:00 PM   #33
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Question for everyone:
None of my windows show signs of leaking, except for a rear window I plan to replace with sheet metal. On the emergency windows some butyl taped got ripped away when pulling the metal siding out.
I’m fine with pulling the emergency windows and resealing those (visible gap on the bottom), but for the rest…should I just leave them alone?
I don’t want to pull all windows and reseal, risking they then leak water. I definitely like the “don’t fix it if it ain’t broke” approach. Or more accurately…”don’t break it if it ain’t broke”
It’s also approaching winter so Idk if sealant would work well now.

2007 Chevy/Collins

Also, I’m a new poster here but sad to see Tango is gone. I learned his name after realizing a lot of the good advice I took was from him…
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