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09-04-2019, 05:07 PM
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#21
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Bus Geek
Join Date: Jan 2019
Location: Philadelphia
Posts: 7,030
Year: 2003
Coachwork: International
Chassis: CE 300
Engine: DT466e
Rated Cap: 65C-43A
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Massagestudent52
I saw a video where a guy cranked the heater to help with keeping the engine heat down. If you could instead rig the heater to pump the excess heat down in away from the engine it might help keeping the engine cool but that's just an idea
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I used to drive a Nissan Sentra with a crappy radiator fan that would overheat if it wasn't moving. Commuting in stop-and-go traffic in the summertime was brutal because I had to keep the heater on full blast to keep the temp from creeping towards the redline. My friends insisted this was pointless until they heard the Car Talk guys recommend it one day.
It would definitely help with the bus to run the heaters since you're basically adding radiator surface to the cooling lines, but I don't know how much.
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09-04-2019, 05:22 PM
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#22
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Bus Geek
Join Date: Dec 2017
Location: Dawsonville, Ga.
Posts: 10,482
Year: 1999
Coachwork: Genesis
Chassis: International
Engine: DT466/3060
Rated Cap: 77
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Massagestudent52
I saw a video where a guy cranked the heater to help with keeping the engine heat down. If you could instead rig the heater to pump the excess heat down in away from the engine it might help keeping the engine cool but that's just an idea
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Turning the heater on and circulating the coolant through the heater core will lower temp a slight bit. It is a bandaid to a more serious issue. Keep in mind while your doing this you are over heating the cabin now.
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09-04-2019, 05:40 PM
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#23
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Mini-Skoolie
Join Date: Sep 2019
Posts: 10
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That's why I suggested adding a mechanism to funnel the heat away from the engine but not in the cab. For example if your engine is in the front have vents that pump it down and towards the back of the vehicle.
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09-04-2019, 07:12 PM
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#24
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Bus Crazy
Join Date: May 2016
Location: Grayson County, VA
Posts: 1,438
Year: 1996
Coachwork: Amtran
Chassis: International
Engine: DT466
Rated Cap: 65
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jofred99
Did they do an in-frame overhaul or pull the engine?
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I believe they did an in-fame overhaul. I think he mentioned the shop rate was around $135/hr. The kit was a few grand, and the new bolts themselves (head bolts and misc. others I guess?) were around a thousand bucks.
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09-04-2019, 09:13 PM
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#25
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Bus Crazy
Join Date: May 2007
Location: Whidbey Island, WA.
Posts: 1,109
Year: 1984
Coachwork: Blue Bird
Chassis: All American
Engine: 3208 na boat anchor
Rated Cap: 2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PNW_Steve
Over the last couple of days I have seen 45' MCI's with 350hp Series 60 in Houston and a Bruebird RE with an unidentified 12.7liter I6. I don't recall the location of the Bluebird.
The Bluebird surprised me. I had never seen that kind of powerplant in a Bluebird.
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Gee, my Cat 3208 has 10.4 liters, and all of 205 hp.
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09-04-2019, 10:04 PM
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#26
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Mini-Skoolie
Join Date: Sep 2019
Posts: 10
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I'm seeing why some of these engines have such bad fuel economy.
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09-04-2019, 10:32 PM
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#27
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Bus Crazy
Join Date: Jun 2016
Location: Orange County, CA
Posts: 1,429
Year: 1990
Coachwork: Crown, integral. (With 2kW of tiltable solar)
Chassis: Crown Supercoach II (rear engine)
Engine: Detroit 6V92TAC, DDEC 2, Jake brake, Allison HT740
Rated Cap: 37,400 lbs GVWR
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If you think you need 400 HP, you're looking at a "real" bus like an MCI or Prevost or Dina or something with a Detroit Series 60 or Cummins ISX or Cat 3406, and that size engine will probably be mated to an Allison B500 or similar. Some Crowns with Cummins 855s had upwards of 300 HP (and well over 1000 lb/ft of torque), such as my friend's desert tandem that can pass cars climbing Cajon Pass, but that much power in a school bus is not common! Or just buy a truck, lengthen the frame and build a body on it, just like lots of folk are doing these days.
John
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09-04-2019, 10:47 PM
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#28
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Mini-Skoolie
Join Date: Sep 2019
Posts: 10
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I'm seeing that I may have to either modify the bus I plan to get or think bigger. Get a larger truck and trailer instead depending on my muscle requirements.
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09-11-2019, 07:30 PM
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#29
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Mini-Skoolie
Join Date: May 2010
Posts: 51
Year: 2001
Chassis: LXI43 slide
Engine: series 60
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You need to buy a Wanderlodge.
Big tanks,big HP,steel.
www.buybyebluebird.com
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09-13-2019, 03:35 PM
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#30
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Bus Crazy
Join Date: Feb 2018
Location: Golden Valley AZ
Posts: 1,111
Year: 1993
Chassis: ThomasBuilt 30'
Engine: need someone to tell me
Rated Cap: me + 1
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Massagestudent52
I'm thinking something the size of a sport truck. I'm concerned because my bus will be carrying a lot of weight before I add the vehicle. I'm looking to have a bus used as a home a few weeks at a time as well as a traveling business. That means carrying extra resources. I'm thinking at least 150 and 200 gallons of fresh water, 50 gallon grey water tank, washer dryer combo, possible dark water tank, wet bath or full shower, and room for two adults to sleep separately. Along with at least 1000 watts of solar, 600 amp hours of battery minimum, as well as the other amenities lol. Oh, and I plan on raising the roof of the bus. I'm just worried the bus won't have enough power with a stock engine
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What kind of business? Why so much water?
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09-13-2019, 04:12 PM
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#31
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Mini-Skoolie
Join Date: May 2010
Posts: 51
Year: 2001
Chassis: LXI43 slide
Engine: series 60
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If your going to have a washer dryer you will need more than 50 gals of waste water,those things suck water like mad.
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09-13-2019, 04:27 PM
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#32
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Bus Geek
Join Date: May 2016
Location: Eastern WA
Posts: 6,402
Year: 2002
Coachwork: Bluebird
Chassis: All American RE (A3RE)
Engine: Cummins ISC (8.3)
Rated Cap: 72
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I keep track of water usage. When we started using the clothes washer we doubled our water consumption.
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