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Old 03-21-2018, 10:45 AM   #1
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Seat Removal - Covering / Sealing Holes

I am in the process of gutting my short bus. After pulling the seats, I'm obviously left with holes thru the floor where the seat bolts were. Any advice on how best to seal and rustproof the holes? tx
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Old 03-21-2018, 12:31 PM   #2
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People here have used every technique from a smear of silicone seal to pennies to welding (I welded mine). Given that everything you build will go on top of the floor, I'd opt for the most permanent method I could afford to insure no entry points for water. Thin sheet metal secured with screws & sealant...coins...metalized flashing tape...whatever makes you feel comfortable.

PS...silicone seal is a bad choice for anything on a bus. Use something like an OEM automotive seam sealer.
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Old 03-21-2018, 12:59 PM   #3
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Meh ... Tango, I greatly respect your expertise, but personally feel welding is overdoing it. After all, water is generally not going to be entering ... from the floor and up. Unless you plan on turning your bus into an amphibious vehicle. I siliconed all the holes and then used aluminum tape over the silicone, then put my floor over that. No issues.
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Old 03-21-2018, 01:23 PM   #4
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Roger that. I absolutely tend towards overdoing things.
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Old 03-21-2018, 02:02 PM   #5
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Far better to over do, than under do...
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Old 03-21-2018, 02:35 PM   #6
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For sure. I love the work Tango has done and meant no disrespect. Most of us don't have welding equipment though, and of all the areas to skimp on, silicon is an adequate solution to OP's question. I agree though that maybe a heavier duty automotive sealer would be best. Even JB Weld would be fine, and likely never come off. As long as the hole is covered there should be no issues. I'd worry more about all the folks putting holes in their roofs, as any moisture that seeps through will cause some serious issues with all that stock fiberglass insulation.
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Old 03-21-2018, 08:46 PM   #7
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Thanks everyone for your wisdom. I tend to over do / engineer things and I have a welder so...... I did see rubber sheet metal hole plugs while shopping at my favorite place, Harbor Freight. Anybody got anything on those? Wondering if they'd leave a lump under the new flooring... Appreciate y'all's feedback!!
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Old 03-21-2018, 09:04 PM   #8
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Has anyone given this a try?

https://www.homedepot.com/p/GCP-Appl...3002/202088840

I have been considering it. I have used this on my home in New Hampshire some years ago and thought it might fit the bill of what we're looking to do when our floor is cleared

What do you guys and gals think?

James
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Old 03-21-2018, 09:18 PM   #9
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Originally Posted by JamieJackson View Post
Has anyone given this a try?

https://www.homedepot.com/p/GCP-Appl...3002/202088840

I have been considering it. I have used this on my home in New Hampshire some years ago and thought it might fit the bill of what we're looking to do when our floor is cleared

What do you guys and gals think?

James
The steel floor is a vapor barrier. Adding another risks moisture being trapped.

Just my 2c.
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Old 03-21-2018, 11:07 PM   #10
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Roger that. I absolutely tend towards overdoing things.
I occasionally go overboard as well. and its an excuse to practice with my cheap harbor freight welder. the question i have for experienced welders is, if i use my the flux core wire, will the heat from welding and the welded material itself be a rust magnet on the bottom where i cant clean it up and paint it when done?
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Old 03-21-2018, 11:44 PM   #11
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Would you seal up the holes with something and then apply this over the sealed up holes or just go right over the bare holes? PS This link took me to the HD in Littleton, NH. I'm a few miles from there!
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Old 03-22-2018, 09:20 AM   #12
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My compulsion to overdo led me to hit those welds from below with my rust converter. But then treating the entire underside was in the plans all along. I am maybe 75% there so far. Just doing it as I work on different areas. My floor, frame and crossmembers were in amazingly good condition for being over 70 years old and I'd like to keep them that way.
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Old 03-22-2018, 09:44 AM   #13
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I have been considering using Henry's roof patch: https://www.doitbest.com/products/10...kaAvXfEALw_wcB

Any thoughts on how well this would work?
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Old 03-22-2018, 10:34 AM   #14
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I have been considering using Henry's roof patch: https://www.doitbest.com/products/10...kaAvXfEALw_wcB

Any thoughts on how well this would work?
At $1.90/sq ft it better be really good!
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Old 03-22-2018, 11:01 AM   #15
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Originally Posted by sally251251 View Post
Thanks everyone for your wisdom. I tend to over do / engineer things and I have a welder so...... I did see rubber sheet metal hole plugs while shopping at my favorite place, Harbor Freight. Anybody got anything on those? Wondering if they'd leave a lump under the new flooring... Appreciate y'all's feedback!!
There's not many solutions that will be presenting a problem with the finished floor...I would use metallic roofing membrane tape

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Old 03-22-2018, 11:02 AM   #16
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Has anyone given this a try?

https://www.homedepot.com/p/GCP-Appl...3002/202088840

I have been considering it. I have used this on my home in New Hampshire some years ago and thought it might fit the bill of what we're looking to do when our floor is cleared

What do you guys and gals think?

James
Yep...that would do it for sure

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Old 03-22-2018, 11:07 AM   #17
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Originally Posted by dan-fox View Post
At $1.90/sq ft it better be really good!
It is available in a caulk tube and can be used to plug the holes. There is no reason to coat the entire floor.

It is $4.99 a tube. I would be surprised if it took more than two tubes.
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Old 03-22-2018, 12:32 PM   #18
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It is available in a caulk tube and can be used to plug the holes. There is no reason to coat the entire floor.

It is $4.99 a tube. I would be surprised if it took more than two tubes.
Got it. I mashed your reply together with Tango's and came up with a plan to do the entire undercarriage with it. My bad.
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Old 03-23-2018, 10:04 PM   #19
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Yep...that would do it for sure

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I have some leftover partial rolls of a different brand of what I think is the same thing - bitumen "bitchethane" normally used in house construction. I think it's pretty pricey to buy for this but I was thinking of using my left over rolls for it. Or as much of it as I could.

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