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03-21-2018, 10:45 AM
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#1
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New Member
Join Date: Oct 2017
Location: Lancaster, NH
Posts: 7
Year: 2002
Coachwork: GMC
Chassis: 3500
Engine: 2.6L Diesel
Rated Cap: 13A 20C
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Seat Removal - Covering / Sealing Holes
I am in the process of gutting my short bus. After pulling the seats, I'm obviously left with holes thru the floor where the seat bolts were. Any advice on how best to seal and rustproof the holes? tx
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03-21-2018, 12:31 PM
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#2
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Bus Geek
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Houston, Texas
Posts: 8,462
Year: 1946
Coachwork: Chevrolet/Wayne
Chassis: 1- 1/2 ton
Engine: Cummins 4BT
Rated Cap: 15
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People here have used every technique from a smear of silicone seal to pennies to welding (I welded mine). Given that everything you build will go on top of the floor, I'd opt for the most permanent method I could afford to insure no entry points for water. Thin sheet metal secured with screws & sealant...coins...metalized flashing tape...whatever makes you feel comfortable.
PS...silicone seal is a bad choice for anything on a bus. Use something like an OEM automotive seam sealer.
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03-21-2018, 12:59 PM
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#3
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Bus Nut
Join Date: Sep 2016
Location: NY
Posts: 487
Year: 2000
Coachwork: Carpenter
Chassis: International 3800
Engine: T444E
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Meh ... Tango, I greatly respect your expertise, but personally feel welding is overdoing it. After all, water is generally not going to be entering ... from the floor and up. Unless you plan on turning your bus into an amphibious vehicle. I siliconed all the holes and then used aluminum tape over the silicone, then put my floor over that. No issues.
__________________
Roads? Where we're going, we don't need ... roads.
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03-21-2018, 01:23 PM
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#4
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Bus Geek
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Houston, Texas
Posts: 8,462
Year: 1946
Coachwork: Chevrolet/Wayne
Chassis: 1- 1/2 ton
Engine: Cummins 4BT
Rated Cap: 15
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Roger that. I absolutely tend towards overdoing things.
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03-21-2018, 02:02 PM
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#5
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Skoolie
Join Date: Oct 2015
Location: League City, Texas
Posts: 221
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Far better to over do, than under do...
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03-21-2018, 02:35 PM
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#6
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Bus Nut
Join Date: Sep 2016
Location: NY
Posts: 487
Year: 2000
Coachwork: Carpenter
Chassis: International 3800
Engine: T444E
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For sure. I love the work Tango has done and meant no disrespect. Most of us don't have welding equipment though, and of all the areas to skimp on, silicon is an adequate solution to OP's question. I agree though that maybe a heavier duty automotive sealer would be best. Even JB Weld would be fine, and likely never come off. As long as the hole is covered there should be no issues. I'd worry more about all the folks putting holes in their roofs, as any moisture that seeps through will cause some serious issues with all that stock fiberglass insulation.
__________________
Roads? Where we're going, we don't need ... roads.
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03-21-2018, 08:46 PM
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#7
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New Member
Join Date: Oct 2017
Location: Lancaster, NH
Posts: 7
Year: 2002
Coachwork: GMC
Chassis: 3500
Engine: 2.6L Diesel
Rated Cap: 13A 20C
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Thanks everyone for your wisdom. I tend to over do / engineer things and I have a welder so...... I did see rubber sheet metal hole plugs while shopping at my favorite place, Harbor Freight. Anybody got anything on those? Wondering if they'd leave a lump under the new flooring... Appreciate y'all's feedback!!
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03-21-2018, 09:04 PM
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#8
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Skoolie
Join Date: Jan 2018
Location: Raleigh, NC
Posts: 102
Year: 1995
Coachwork: Thomas
Chassis: Saf-T-Liner ER
Engine: Cummins ISC 8.3 Allison MD3060
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Has anyone given this a try?
https://www.homedepot.com/p/GCP-Appl...3002/202088840
I have been considering it. I have used this on my home in New Hampshire some years ago and thought it might fit the bill of what we're looking to do when our floor is cleared
What do you guys and gals think?
James
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03-21-2018, 09:18 PM
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#9
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Bus Geek
Join Date: Sep 2017
Location: Owasso, OK
Posts: 2,627
Year: 1999
Coachwork: Thomas
Chassis: Saf-T-Liner MVP ER
Engine: Cummins 6CTA8.3 Mechanical MD3060
Rated Cap: 46 Coach Seats, 40 foot
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JamieJackson
Has anyone given this a try?
https://www.homedepot.com/p/GCP-Appl...3002/202088840
I have been considering it. I have used this on my home in New Hampshire some years ago and thought it might fit the bill of what we're looking to do when our floor is cleared
What do you guys and gals think?
James
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The steel floor is a vapor barrier. Adding another risks moisture being trapped.
Just my 2c.
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03-21-2018, 11:07 PM
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#10
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Skoolie
Join Date: Jan 2018
Location: Colorado
Posts: 164
Year: 1995
Coachwork: Amtrans
Chassis: Genesis
Engine: DT466
Rated Cap: 20 (9 window handicap)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tango
Roger that. I absolutely tend towards overdoing things.
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I occasionally go overboard as well. and its an excuse to practice with my cheap harbor freight welder. the question i have for experienced welders is, if i use my the flux core wire, will the heat from welding and the welded material itself be a rust magnet on the bottom where i cant clean it up and paint it when done?
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03-21-2018, 11:44 PM
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#11
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New Member
Join Date: Oct 2017
Location: Lancaster, NH
Posts: 7
Year: 2002
Coachwork: GMC
Chassis: 3500
Engine: 2.6L Diesel
Rated Cap: 13A 20C
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Would you seal up the holes with something and then apply this over the sealed up holes or just go right over the bare holes? PS This link took me to the HD in Littleton, NH. I'm a few miles from there!
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03-22-2018, 09:20 AM
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#12
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Bus Geek
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Houston, Texas
Posts: 8,462
Year: 1946
Coachwork: Chevrolet/Wayne
Chassis: 1- 1/2 ton
Engine: Cummins 4BT
Rated Cap: 15
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My compulsion to overdo led me to hit those welds from below with my rust converter. But then treating the entire underside was in the plans all along. I am maybe 75% there so far. Just doing it as I work on different areas. My floor, frame and crossmembers were in amazingly good condition for being over 70 years old and I'd like to keep them that way.
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03-22-2018, 09:44 AM
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#13
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Bus Geek
Join Date: May 2016
Location: Eastern WA
Posts: 6,401
Year: 2002
Coachwork: Bluebird
Chassis: All American RE (A3RE)
Engine: Cummins ISC (8.3)
Rated Cap: 72
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I have been considering using Henry's roof patch: https://www.doitbest.com/products/10...kaAvXfEALw_wcB
Any thoughts on how well this would work?
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03-22-2018, 10:34 AM
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#14
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Bus Crazy
Join Date: Aug 2014
Location: SW New Hampshire
Posts: 1,334
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PNW_Steve
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At $1.90/sq ft it better be really good!
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03-22-2018, 11:01 AM
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#15
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Bus Nut
Join Date: Dec 2017
Posts: 973
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sally251251
Thanks everyone for your wisdom. I tend to over do / engineer things and I have a welder so...... I did see rubber sheet metal hole plugs while shopping at my favorite place, Harbor Freight. Anybody got anything on those? Wondering if they'd leave a lump under the new flooring... Appreciate y'all's feedback!!
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There's not many solutions that will be presenting a problem with the finished floor...I would use metallic roofing membrane tape
Sent from my VS500PP using Tapatalk
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03-22-2018, 11:02 AM
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#16
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Bus Nut
Join Date: Dec 2017
Posts: 973
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JamieJackson
Has anyone given this a try?
https://www.homedepot.com/p/GCP-Appl...3002/202088840
I have been considering it. I have used this on my home in New Hampshire some years ago and thought it might fit the bill of what we're looking to do when our floor is cleared
What do you guys and gals think?
James
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Yep...that would do it for sure
Sent from my VS500PP using Tapatalk
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03-22-2018, 11:07 AM
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#17
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Bus Geek
Join Date: May 2016
Location: Eastern WA
Posts: 6,401
Year: 2002
Coachwork: Bluebird
Chassis: All American RE (A3RE)
Engine: Cummins ISC (8.3)
Rated Cap: 72
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dan-fox
At $1.90/sq ft it better be really good!
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It is available in a caulk tube and can be used to plug the holes. There is no reason to coat the entire floor.
It is $4.99 a tube. I would be surprised if it took more than two tubes.
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03-22-2018, 12:32 PM
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#18
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Bus Crazy
Join Date: Aug 2014
Location: SW New Hampshire
Posts: 1,334
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PNW_Steve
It is available in a caulk tube and can be used to plug the holes. There is no reason to coat the entire floor.
It is $4.99 a tube. I would be surprised if it took more than two tubes.
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Got it. I mashed your reply together with Tango's and came up with a plan to do the entire undercarriage with it. My bad.
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03-23-2018, 10:04 PM
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#19
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Bus Nut
Join Date: Feb 2018
Location: Tahoe
Posts: 513
Year: 1997
Coachwork: International
Chassis: 3000RE
Engine: T444E w/ MT643
Rated Cap: 84 pass, 40'
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jdawgsfanasty
Yep...that would do it for sure
Sent from my VS500PP using Tapatalk
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I have some leftover partial rolls of a different brand of what I think is the same thing - bitumen "bitchethane" normally used in house construction. I think it's pretty pricey to buy for this but I was thinking of using my left over rolls for it. Or as much of it as I could.
Sent from my XT1585 using Tapatalk
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middle aged mom on a learning adventure
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