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05-26-2019, 11:40 AM
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#21
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Bus Crazy
Join Date: Oct 2017
Location: E Central Tejas
Posts: 2,094
Year: 1998
Coachwork: Thomas
Chassis: IH 3800, 8 window
Engine: T444E w/ Spicer 5-speed MT
Rated Cap: I prefer broad-brims hats
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sleddgracer
certainly ready to learn from your mistakes, problems and successes
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And that is precisely the sequence of events on this project! Save the last...
Still a work in progress. [emoji6]
__________________
Those who say that it cannot be done should not interrupt the people doing it.
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05-26-2019, 12:08 PM
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#22
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Bus Crazy
Join Date: Nov 2018
Location: south east BC, close to the Canadian/US border
Posts: 2,265
Year: 1975
Coachwork: Chevy
Chassis: 8 window
Engine: 454 LS7
Rated Cap: 24,500
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Quote:
Originally Posted by haz.matt.1960
And that is precisely the sequence of events on this project! Save the last...
Still a work in progress. [emoji6]
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my goal, once I find my bus, is to make a comfortable unit, reasonably attractive, and very practical for my needs, using methods that will allow me to complete the conversion while I can still use it - lol
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05-26-2019, 12:24 PM
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#23
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Bus Crazy
Join Date: Oct 2017
Location: E Central Tejas
Posts: 2,094
Year: 1998
Coachwork: Thomas
Chassis: IH 3800, 8 window
Engine: T444E w/ Spicer 5-speed MT
Rated Cap: I prefer broad-brims hats
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OMG! Don't try this at (Tiny) Home, kids!!!
Quote:
Originally Posted by Sleddgracer
my goal, once I find my bus, is to make a comfortable unit, reasonably attractive, and very practical for my needs, using methods that will allow me to complete the conversion while I can still use it - lol
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I conscripted my bus as The Kwik-Exit Moving Company, to get the frell outta Dodge.
All mods are taking place while I am in residence.
This whole evolution would go multiple orders of magnitude more quickly; if I didn't have to keep relocating crap, working around my built-ins, going extra steps to minimize metal shavings contamination, et al.
'Course, you have a home base for all of your stuff, so you needn't have a diesel blivet like me...
__________________
Those who say that it cannot be done should not interrupt the people doing it.
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05-26-2019, 12:48 PM
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#24
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Bus Geek
Join Date: Dec 2017
Location: Dawsonville, Ga.
Posts: 10,482
Year: 1999
Coachwork: Genesis
Chassis: International
Engine: DT466/3060
Rated Cap: 77
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Okay, we can close this thread. You all come up with some amazing solution, none of which fit my criteria. Once the WHOLE ceiling is glued I imagine it will have as much or close to the strength it had before. I don't think there is enough flex in a bus to pull it all apart. My plan was to widen the groove on the first piece going up against the underlayment and tucking the underlayment into the groove. But both boards are 1/4" thick, so I will remove the bottom of the groove edge, overlap it on the underlayment. I'm going to go ahead and glue up a sample and see how hard it is to pull off after curing.
What I'm seeing is no one has done it so it's all speculation.
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05-26-2019, 12:59 PM
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#25
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Bus Crazy
Join Date: Nov 2018
Location: south east BC, close to the Canadian/US border
Posts: 2,265
Year: 1975
Coachwork: Chevy
Chassis: 8 window
Engine: 454 LS7
Rated Cap: 24,500
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Quote:
Originally Posted by haz.matt.1960
OMG! Don't try this at (Tiny) Home, kids!!!I conscripted my bus as The Kwik-Exit Moving Company, to get the frell outta Dodge.
All mods are taking place while I am in residence.
This whole evolution would go multiple orders of magnitude more quickly; if I didn't have to keep relocating crap, working around my built-ins, going extra steps to minimize metal shavings contamination, et al.
'Course, you have a home base for all of your stuff, so you needn't have a diesel blivet like me...
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I'll be able to park my bus 25' from my house, and 15' from my workshop, so that should help - I don't envy you living in the construction zone, or those that have to drive to where their bus is parked, or worse yet, having to rent a space to work on their bus - I have virtually no worries about vandalism with my mobile security team in place, plus living so far off the road -
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05-26-2019, 01:10 PM
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#26
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Bus Geek
Join Date: Dec 2017
Location: Dawsonville, Ga.
Posts: 10,482
Year: 1999
Coachwork: Genesis
Chassis: International
Engine: DT466/3060
Rated Cap: 77
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I had 3 construction adhesives to choose from, so was going to do 3 separate boards to see which worked best. I put the first one up, Dynaflex Ultra. Started to glue up the second one and the first one fell down, so much for grabbing ability, stuck it back up there. Proceeded to stick the second one up, Loctite Power Grab HD, 0 second instant grab, seemed to work. The first one fell down again. That's when I realized it isn't adhesive, it's sealer caulk, duh.
The 3rd one went up with Loctite PL Max Premium. I'll hang from both tomorrow and see if they hold my weight (162, down from 21
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05-26-2019, 01:14 PM
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#27
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Bus Crazy
Join Date: Nov 2018
Location: south east BC, close to the Canadian/US border
Posts: 2,265
Year: 1975
Coachwork: Chevy
Chassis: 8 window
Engine: 454 LS7
Rated Cap: 24,500
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Quote:
Originally Posted by o1marc
I had 3 construction adhesives to choose from, so was going to do 3 separate boards to see which worked best. I put the first one up, Dynaflex Ultra. Started to glue up the second one and the first one fell down, so much for grabbing ability, stuck it back up there. Proceeded to stick the second one up, Loctite Power Grab HD, 0 second instant grab, seemed to work. The first one fell down again. That's when I realized it isn't adhesive, it's sealer caulk, duh.
The 3rd one went up with Loctite PL Max Premium. I'll hang from both tomorrow and see if they hold my weight (162, down from 21
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l'll be watching to see which glue holds best - now you know that caulking doesn't work the same as glue - lol
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05-26-2019, 01:33 PM
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#28
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Bus Geek
Join Date: Dec 2017
Location: Dawsonville, Ga.
Posts: 10,482
Year: 1999
Coachwork: Genesis
Chassis: International
Engine: DT466/3060
Rated Cap: 77
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sleddgracer
l'll be watching to see which glue holds best - now you know that caulking doesn't work the same as glue - lol
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I knew that before, just didn't read the label to know it wasn't adhesive.
I'm guessing I won't know which holds better as they will both probably hold my weight.
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05-26-2019, 02:44 PM
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#29
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Bus Crazy
Join Date: Nov 2018
Location: south east BC, close to the Canadian/US border
Posts: 2,265
Year: 1975
Coachwork: Chevy
Chassis: 8 window
Engine: 454 LS7
Rated Cap: 24,500
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Quote:
Originally Posted by o1marc
I knew that before, just didn't read the label to know it wasn't adhesive.
I'm guessing I won't know which holds better as they will both probably hold my weight.
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if either one will hold your weight, then either one would hold an 1/8" thick panel in place I would think
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05-26-2019, 02:56 PM
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#30
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Bus Crazy
Join Date: Oct 2017
Location: E Central Tejas
Posts: 2,094
Year: 1998
Coachwork: Thomas
Chassis: IH 3800, 8 window
Engine: T444E w/ Spicer 5-speed MT
Rated Cap: I prefer broad-brims hats
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Nice! That setup will make things considerably easier.
My commute isn't at all painful- open my eyes in the AM, & I'm there...
"Mobile Security Team," LOVE it!
Quote:
Originally Posted by Sleddgracer
I'll be able to park my bus 25' from my house, and 15' from my workshop, so that should help - I don't envy you living in the construction zone, or those that have to drive to where their bus is parked, or worse yet, having to rent a space to work on their bus - I have virtually no worries about vandalism with my mobile security team in place, plus living so far off the road -
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ROFL Yet another tragic tale of caulk self-abuse!
Can you wedge the planks against their sealing surface using C-clamps against the hat-channels?
Quote:
Originally Posted by o1marc
I had 3 construction adhesives to choose from, so was going to do 3 separate boards to see which worked best. I put the first one up, Dynaflex Ultra. Started to glue up the second one and the first one fell down, so much for grabbing ability, stuck it back up there. Proceeded to stick the second one up, Loctite Power Grab HD, 0 second instant grab, seemed to work. The first one fell down again. That's when I realized it isn't adhesive, it's sealer caulk, duh.
The 3rd one went up with Loctite PL Max Premium. I'll hang from both tomorrow and see if they hold my weight (162, down from 21
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__________________
Those who say that it cannot be done should not interrupt the people doing it.
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05-26-2019, 02:56 PM
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#31
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Bus Geek
Join Date: Dec 2017
Location: Dawsonville, Ga.
Posts: 10,482
Year: 1999
Coachwork: Genesis
Chassis: International
Engine: DT466/3060
Rated Cap: 77
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sleddgracer
if either one will hold your weight, then either one would hold an 1/8" thick panel in place I would think
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1/4", but all it needs to do is hold them in place.
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05-26-2019, 03:04 PM
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#32
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Bus Crazy
Join Date: Nov 2018
Location: south east BC, close to the Canadian/US border
Posts: 2,265
Year: 1975
Coachwork: Chevy
Chassis: 8 window
Engine: 454 LS7
Rated Cap: 24,500
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"Can you wedge the planks against their sealing surface using C-clamps against the hat-channels?"
good idea - with a bit of a modification, that idea might just work fine - using a 2x4 to wedge the panel up, and C clamp the 2x4 to the hat channel should keep the panel damage free
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05-26-2019, 03:07 PM
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#33
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Bus Crazy
Join Date: Nov 2018
Location: south east BC, close to the Canadian/US border
Posts: 2,265
Year: 1975
Coachwork: Chevy
Chassis: 8 window
Engine: 454 LS7
Rated Cap: 24,500
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Quote:
Originally Posted by o1marc
1/4", but all it needs to do is hold them in place.
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I'm thinking of 1/8" thick pre-finished paneling with one of the photo finishes they offer
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05-26-2019, 03:29 PM
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#34
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Bus Geek
Join Date: Dec 2017
Location: Dawsonville, Ga.
Posts: 10,482
Year: 1999
Coachwork: Genesis
Chassis: International
Engine: DT466/3060
Rated Cap: 77
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I looked at birch 1/4" ply, $45, then saw this 1/4" underlayment and thought it would be like crappy OSB or something. It actually can be used as a finished surface. The grain pattern is good and has unique Pine Beetle bore holes that effected the color around the bore hole, then each perfect 3/16" bore hole was filled with light colored filler. I think it has lots of character. $14/sheet. Think it will take stain nicely also.
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05-26-2019, 03:31 PM
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#35
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Bus Crazy
Join Date: Nov 2018
Location: south east BC, close to the Canadian/US border
Posts: 2,265
Year: 1975
Coachwork: Chevy
Chassis: 8 window
Engine: 454 LS7
Rated Cap: 24,500
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Quote:
Originally Posted by o1marc
I looked at birch 1/4" ply, $45, then saw this 1/4" underlayment and thought it would be like crappy OSB or something. It actually can be used as a finished surface. The grain pattern is good and has unique Pine Beetle bore holes that effected the color around the bore hole, then each perfect 3/16" bore hole was filled with light colored filler. I think it has lots of character. $14/sheet. Think it will take stain nicely also.
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very nice find ! - it is going to take a fair bit of sanding to get rid of the cross hatch marks - they'll grab all the attention when finished with a clear stain
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05-26-2019, 03:33 PM
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#36
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Bus Geek
Join Date: Dec 2017
Location: Dawsonville, Ga.
Posts: 10,482
Year: 1999
Coachwork: Genesis
Chassis: International
Engine: DT466/3060
Rated Cap: 77
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2.5 hours after putting these 2 test pieces up. I'm good with either LocTite product for this application. Now I get the sawzall to cut those samples down.
Here's 100lbs hanging from them.
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05-26-2019, 03:39 PM
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#37
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Mini-Skoolie
Join Date: May 2019
Posts: 51
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very nice flooring bro! looks sharp as a tack
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05-26-2019, 03:42 PM
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#38
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Bus Crazy
Join Date: Oct 2017
Location: E Central Tejas
Posts: 2,094
Year: 1998
Coachwork: Thomas
Chassis: IH 3800, 8 window
Engine: T444E w/ Spicer 5-speed MT
Rated Cap: I prefer broad-brims hats
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Like a homely broad, it has LOTSA character!
Dissimilarly, you might want to run to moderately coarse sandpaper, to knock down the mill marks before finishing the sheets.
Is that going over the wall/ceiling curve? 1/8" plywood is plenty bitch-kitty to fit. Kerfs, maybe 1/4" spacing, might make it go. More easily, anyhoo...
Quote:
Originally Posted by o1marc
I looked at birch 1/4" ply, $45, then saw this 1/4" underlayment and thought it would be like crappy OSB or something. It actually can be used as a finished surface. The grain pattern is good and has unique Pine Beetle bore holes that effected the color around the bore hole, then each perfect 3/16" bore hole was filled with light colored filler. I think it has lots of character. $14/sheet. Think it will take stain nicely also.
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What will that poor child do after being cut off at the wrists..?
Quote:
Originally Posted by o1marc
2.5 hours after putting these 2 test pieces up. I'm good with either LocTite product for this application. Now I get the sawzall to cut those samples down.
Here's 100lbs hanging from them.
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__________________
Those who say that it cannot be done should not interrupt the people doing it.
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05-26-2019, 03:52 PM
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#39
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Bus Geek
Join Date: Dec 2017
Location: Dawsonville, Ga.
Posts: 10,482
Year: 1999
Coachwork: Genesis
Chassis: International
Engine: DT466/3060
Rated Cap: 77
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The 1/4" ply will span the center section of the ceiling down the 2 fore and aft rails, the boards will start from that rail and continue down the ceiling to the tops of the windows.
Here's my 165lbs hanging.
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05-26-2019, 03:54 PM
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#40
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Bus Geek
Join Date: Dec 2017
Location: Dawsonville, Ga.
Posts: 10,482
Year: 1999
Coachwork: Genesis
Chassis: International
Engine: DT466/3060
Rated Cap: 77
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I have made curved "T" braces to push the ply against the ceiling while it sets. Don't think I'll need anything to hold the boards other than the 0 second grip adhesive. Gotta run the electric in the garage tomorrow and then panel the ceiling.
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