Skoolie ceiling suggestions

[neuronmisfires]

Hey y’all,

When I started working on my bus I wasn’t quite sure what the hell i was doing -and I still don’t! I installed my ceiling furring strips about a foot apart (parallel to the length of the bus) and then sprayed foam everywhere. I’m thinking they’re too far apart now to put up tongue and groove cedar planks as I originally intended. I could only nail/brad in around every 3rd row. Any ideas?

[BlackJohn]

Brad nail each piece at your main ribs then and the others where they meet your furring strips. Wood glue every t&g joint and you should be fine. Those pieces don't weigh much but the t & g adds strength and support.


John

[musigenesis]

You could run the planks from side-to-side instead of lengthwise - lot of work steaming and/or cutting shallow grooves on the back, but it would be pretty interesting-looking. I'm just going to put up 3/16" plywood myself.

[neuronmisfires]

Ahhh i might try the wood glue idea! I love the look so hopefully it works okay! Thanks for the tip.

[musigenesis]

Originally Posted by BlackJohn

Brad nail each piece at your main ribs then and the others where they meet your furring strips. Wood glue every t&g joint and you should be fine. Those pieces don't weigh much but the t & g adds strength and support.


John

I'm not sure I understand what you're suggesting. The main ribs are steel channels - brad nail into those?

[BlackJohn]

Originally Posted by musigenesis

I'm not sure I understand what you're suggesting. The main ribs are steel channels - brad nail into those?

Of course not, I thought you had them furred out.



John

[musigenesis]

Originally Posted by BlackJohn

Of course not, I thought you had them furred out.



John

I'm not OP, but my understanding of his post was that he has run his furring strips longitudinally (i.e. front-to-back) and since he has now spray-foamed, those longitudinal strips are the only available thing he can nail into. So if he runs his t&g longitudinally as well, only one in three of those boards will have anything underneath (anywhere) to nail into.

Normally furring strips need to be perpendicular to the planks nailed to them. In OP's case, if he had run the furring strips from side-to-side along each rib/channel, he would not now have any problems with running t&g front-to-back.

[Drew Bru]

Originally Posted by musigenesis

I'm not OP, but my understanding of his post was that he has run his furring strips longitudinally (i.e. front-to-back) and since he has now spray-foamed, those longitudinal strips are the only available thing he can nail into. So if he runs his t&g longitudinally as well, only one in three of those boards will have anything underneath (anywhere) to nail into.

That's what I understood the issue to be as well.

I would use 5mm underlayment luann plywood (found at Home Depot for around $13 per 4x8 sheet) to run furring strips attached to each rib, then do as Black John suggested.

If time/money is not an issue, the preferable way would be to skip the makeshift furring strip idea and use the full sheets of 5mm underlayment over the insulation and attached to the existing furring strips. We cut our underlayment into 2' wide sections and it bent easily enough to conform to the curve of the roof. Not sure whether or not the full 4' wide panel would conform as easily. I guess it's worth a try to run the TnG boards across the roof instead of longitudinally....my hunch is that they won't make the bend though, since they're solid wood.

[BlackJohn]

Originally Posted by musigenesis

I'm not OP, but my understanding of his post was that he has run his furring strips longitudinally (i.e. front-to-back) and since he has now spray-foamed, those longitudinal strips are the only available thing he can nail into. So if he runs his t&g longitudinally as well, only one in three of those boards will have anything underneath (anywhere) to nail into.

Normally furring strips need to be perpendicular to the planks nailed to them. In OP's case, if he had run the furring strips from side-to-side along each rib/channel, he would not now have any problems with running t&g front-to-back.

Thank you sir for the clarification.
I wish pictures would accompany more of these posts as several descriptions are really confusing reading.

He does have a predicament now to work through but there are ways I imagine to overcome this problem.


John

[musigenesis]

Your best bet might be to cut away the foam on top of the channels and retroactively attach transverse (side-to-side) furring strips (leaving the longitudinal ones in place) to the channels. Then you'd have no problem running the t&g lengthwise. It wouldn't be as well-sealed as it would have been had you attached these strips before spraying, but that's not huge.

[o1marc]

Secure, with glue or screws, lattice strips to the underside of the ribs for a brad sub base.

[neuronmisfires]

Thanks for all of the replies. I should’ve included a pic to begin with, but here’s one now:

https://imgur.com/a/xQ20h1V

[o1marc]

At this point add lattice strips or cover the ceiling with 1/4" ply of some sort.


The link is not live

[HazMatt]

Thread's not dead, Zed.

[neuronmisfires]

Link is ALIVE

[neuronmisfires]

Like a regular act 2 Frankenstein’s monster