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Old 07-08-2018, 11:07 PM   #21
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Join Date: Jan 2016
Location: Greater Boston
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Quote:
Originally Posted by N'om'ad View Post
I agree but I don't understand your suggestion - you'd run a bead along the edge of the patch?

To be clear, I'm suggesting using JUST seam sealer/adhesive - an 'all-in-one' product - to glue down AND seal the patch. A patch that would overlap the hole by at least an inch or two, meaning that there would be an inch or two of adhesive/seam sealer all around any hole and I'd make sure there was enough applied that it was squeezing out of all edges all around so a perimeter bead wouldn't be required.

I can't see that that would be any less solid than a welded patch and, even if it was, would easily last the 10-20 years (absolute max) that I want out of it
What I mean was that you'd take your adhesive and seal around the edge of the patch (to make a patch - glue - floor sandwich), then after that dries, you coat the seam with seam sealer. That way, you have two layers of sealant around the hole. If the glue fails, the seam sealer will still keep the water out.

You probably could find an all-in-one product that would work. Using two separate ones is probably technically overkill, but it's relatively cheap, so people do it anyway.

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Old 07-09-2018, 02:01 AM   #22
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Join Date: Feb 2018
Location: Tahoe
Posts: 513
Year: 1997
Coachwork: International
Chassis: 3000RE
Engine: T444E w/ MT643
Rated Cap: 84 pass, 40'
Quote:
Originally Posted by N'om'ad View Post
I agree but I don't understand your suggestion - you'd run a bead along the edge of the patch?

To be clear, I'm suggesting using JUST seam sealer/adhesive - an 'all-in-one' product - to glue down AND seal the patch. A patch that would overlap the hole by at least an inch or two, meaning that there would be an inch or two of adhesive/seam sealer all around any hole and I'd make sure there was enough applied that it was squeezing out of all edges all around so a perimeter bead wouldn't be required.

I can't see that that would be any less solid than a welded patch and, even if it was, would easily last the 10-20 years (absolute max) that I want out of it
This is what we did with Sikkaflez. The holes were all bolt holes except one small Rust hole. We did rust convert, primer, then hope.patch, then paint the floor. The patches were stuck on with sillaflex.and then it was wiped arpikd the edges, too. It seems to work really well.
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Old 07-09-2018, 02:02 AM   #23
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Year: 1997
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Engine: T444E w/ MT643
Rated Cap: 84 pass, 40'
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Originally Posted by 2martins View Post
This is what we did with Sikkaflez. The holes were all bolt holes except one small Rust hole. We did rust convert, primer, then hope.patch, then paint the floor. The patches were stuck on with sillaflex.and then it was wiped arpikd the edges, too. It seems to work really well.
Sikkaflex actually. Sorry.
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Old 07-14-2018, 07:49 AM   #24
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Anybody use POR-15? That's our plan.
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Old 07-14-2018, 08:07 AM   #25
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Join Date: Sep 2014
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Originally Posted by boilerguy666 View Post
Anybody use POR-15? That's our plan.
Its good, but its not worth the huge price.
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