Journey with Confidence RV GPS App RV Trip Planner RV LIFE Campground Reviews RV Maintenance Take a Speed Test Free 7 Day Trial ×


Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
 
Old 01-01-2019, 12:29 PM   #1
Mini-Skoolie
 
Join Date: Oct 2014
Location: Asheville NC
Posts: 65
Year: 95
Chassis: TC2000
Engine: Bluebird
So I almost cut my arm off with an angle grinder

I had taken the guard off to remove floor bolts, forgot to put it back on, and was using it overhead to take the ceiling panels down. I lost my grip when it got caught and it landed in my shoulder. Now I might have to sell the bus to pay for the medical bills.

PSA don't be a dumbass like me!


Anyway, do y'all have advice about getting the ceiling panels off without major injuries? Other than "put the guard back on" because I don't think I'll have the arm strength to hold that thing any time soon and also I'm just not ever putting it over my head again. I tried tapping the rivets with a drill and it works for the slightly rusted wall panels but the ceiling enamel makes the drill bit just bounce around. Maybe I can take it off with a wire brush.

Anybody near Asheville want to come give me a hand? I'm scheduling friends as spotters for the next time I pick up a power tool.
Attached Thumbnails
IMG_20181231_125716639-01.jpg  

elliot_peas is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-01-2019, 12:32 PM   #2
Bus Geek
 
Tango's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Houston, Texas
Posts: 8,462
Year: 1946
Coachwork: Chevrolet/Wayne
Chassis: 1- 1/2 ton
Engine: Cummins 4BT
Rated Cap: 15
Ouch!!! The are bad enough with the guard in place. Without it...they are seriously dangerous.


Glad it didn't land a little higher...like on your jugular.
Tango is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-01-2019, 12:41 PM   #3
Mini-Skoolie
 
Join Date: Oct 2014
Location: Asheville NC
Posts: 65
Year: 95
Chassis: TC2000
Engine: Bluebird
Yeah. I'm recognizing that I have absolutely no idea how to use power tools safely, despite all those YouTube "how I did ____in my bus" videos I've watched. I think I need a safety course.

Hey I do have a respirator though!
elliot_peas is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-01-2019, 12:49 PM   #4
Skoolie
 
Join Date: Mar 2018
Location: CA, USA
Posts: 147
Year: 1992
Coachwork: sturdivan
Chassis: E-350
Engine: 7.3l IDI
Rated Cap: 10,000lbs
Quote:
Originally Posted by elliot_peas View Post
.. tried tapping the rivets with a drill and it works for the slightly rusted wall panels but the ceiling enamel makes the drill bit just bounce around. Maybe I can take it off with a wire brush.
Sorry to hear about your learning experience, that is a tough lesson, but glad you passed, or survived as the case may be; and glad that you are not giving up. It would be a shame to waste such a expensive lesson.

I love to help neighbors but I'm afraid that's a little far, sorry.

as far as dealing with the enamel, YMMV, but I would try hitting them with a good center punch chisel, wear good grade safety glasses, to break and chip the enamel to get at the metal rivets. Hit right in the center. The center punch will also provide a depression to guide the drill bit, and start with a sharp small drill and them step drill.
Good luck, and don't be a stranger.
__________________
Al
telegram: https://t.me/mr_alpine
portfolio: https://clickasnap.com/alpinekid
alpinekid is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-01-2019, 12:58 PM   #5
Mini-Skoolie
 
Join Date: Oct 2014
Location: Asheville NC
Posts: 65
Year: 95
Chassis: TC2000
Engine: Bluebird
Quote:
Originally Posted by alpinekid View Post
as far as dealing with the enamel, YMMV, but I would try hitting them with a good center punch chisel, wear good grade safety glasses, to break and chip the enamel to get at the metal rivets. Hit right in the center. The center punch will also provide a depression to guide the drill bit, and start with a sharp small drill and them step drill.
Good luck, and don't be a stranger.
Center punch chisel is a taper I whack with a hammer, right? That sounds helpful. Especially with safety glasses. And maybe chainmail.
elliot_peas is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-01-2019, 01:06 PM   #6
Bus Crazy
 
Drew Bru's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2016
Location: Grayson County, VA
Posts: 1,428
Year: 1996
Coachwork: Amtran
Chassis: International
Engine: DT466
Rated Cap: 65
I know, I know you're gun shy with the angle grinder right now.....I assume you were using a cut-off wheel? Try using a flap wheel. I dunno how well it would work for grinding down rivets, but it's worth a shot. A lot less sketchy IMO than a flimsy cut off wheel.
Attached Thumbnails
flapwheel.png  
__________________
Our Build: https://dazzlingbluebus.wordpress.com/
Drew Bru is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-01-2019, 01:15 PM   #7
Mini-Skoolie
 
Join Date: Oct 2014
Location: Asheville NC
Posts: 65
Year: 95
Chassis: TC2000
Engine: Bluebird
I was using a bigass metal cutting wheel. Would that flap wheel not just take a bigger chunk out if I drop it on myself? I'd been slicing the metal panels from inside the rivet lines (like cutting the crust off a slice of bread) using the wheel I had put on it to get the bolts off the floor. Might try a flap wheel on the rest of the wall panels when my arm strength is back. Thanks!

Edit: attached a picture of the wheel I had on the grinder. Bad bad bad.
Attached Thumbnails
Screenshot_20190101-141632-01.jpeg  
elliot_peas is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-01-2019, 01:47 PM   #8
Bus Crazy
 
david.dgeorge07's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2017
Location: Chattanooga, TN
Posts: 1,413
Year: 2001
Coachwork: Thomas
Chassis: Thomas
Engine: CAT 3126
Ouch!

Flap wheel would be a lot less dangerous than that blade you were using. You would just abrade the rivet heads off if you were using one.

It would still be no fun to drop one one yourself, but it would not slice like the other one.
__________________
My Build Thread:

https://www.skoolie.net/forums/f11/4-...ner-18205.html
david.dgeorge07 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-01-2019, 01:52 PM   #9
Bus Crazy
 
Johnny Mullet's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2017
Location: Ashtabula, Ohio
Posts: 1,494
Year: 1996
Coachwork: Thomas
Chassis: International
Engine: T444E 7.3L
Sorry to hear about your injuries. I work with all kinds of cutting tools and they all scare the crap out of me.
Johnny Mullet is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-01-2019, 02:24 PM   #10
Bus Nut
 
ermracing's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2018
Location: Claremont, NH
Posts: 480
Year: 2003
Coachwork: Bluebird
Chassis: International 3800
Engine: DT466E (195hp, 520tq)
Hope you heal soon! I used a grinding wheel on my cut-off tool to get rid of the heads of the rivets when I took down our ceiling. Certainly safer than a cutting wheel and more aggressive than a flapper wheel.
__________________
Dave
ermracing is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-01-2019, 03:25 PM   #11
Bus Geek
 
Jolly Roger bus 223's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2017
Location: Swansboro,NC
Posts: 2,973
Year: 86
Coachwork: Thomas
Chassis: Ford B700
Engine: 8.2
Rated Cap: 60 bodies
That wheel is overpriced and overrated buy the manufacturer.
The flapper wheel is more for smoothing metal than cutting it.
even if you have a clear shot with a thin cutting wheel they are going to try to grab towards the end because the grinders is already at an angle. with or without a guard.
For 4" grinders you don't have the option to buy a cutting wheel with a nut already built into it a thicker grinding wheel you do.
The thicker wheel is cupped and made for steel removal and are built with are without nuts. the thin cutting wheel is made for flush cutting something.
Make sure the wheels bought meet or exceed the RPM of your grinder.
Use your grinders supplied side handle at all times no matter how awkward?
Glad that's all you got and don't let it stop you.
Almost lost a welder 4-months ago cause of a 9" one?
180 stitches from his mutts to the back of his neck cause it caught in his clothes.
Make sure your grinder shuts off the second your finger lets off the switch. There a lot sold to the homeowner that doesn't.
Jolly Roger bus 223 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-01-2019, 04:09 PM   #12
Bus Geek
 
o1marc's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2017
Location: Dawsonville, Ga.
Posts: 10,482
Year: 1999
Coachwork: Genesis
Chassis: International
Engine: DT466/3060
Rated Cap: 77
Use a grinder to grind a flat surface to the rivet, then center punch and drill.
o1marc is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-01-2019, 04:39 PM   #13
Mini-Skoolie
 
Join Date: Oct 2014
Location: Asheville NC
Posts: 65
Year: 95
Chassis: TC2000
Engine: Bluebird
My angle grinder definitely doesn't have a brake when I take my finger off the trigger. That would be wonderful. I absolutely made the mistake of just letting myself get used to a bad habit by having the guard off. Thanks for the reminder about the handle too. I don't think I'll have the arm strength to hold the grinder overhead again any time soon - I severed my bicep. I'll need a technique that allows me to rely mostly on my right arm or gravity

Holy crap I hope your welder is ok, that's terrifying.
elliot_peas is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-01-2019, 05:31 PM   #14
Bus Crazy
 
Join Date: May 2018
Location: topeka kansas
Posts: 1,771
Year: 1954
Coachwork: wayne
Chassis: old f500- new 2005 f-450
Engine: cummins 12 valve
Rated Cap: 20? five rows of 4?
how to take out rivets...

the first tool you will use is called " automatic center punch" Look it up. You can use this one handed. then drill the center of rivet out. Or the head of the rivet. go watch videos about removing rivets air craft related. when you finally watch so many videos you are sick of it. the go out to the bus an do it.

good luck, I hope you are wearing eye protection to crap out of your eyes. How about hearing, huh? what did you say? see my point.

have removed thousands of rivets on all kinds of different stuff..... drills, punches, never a grinder, chisel,

william
magnakansas is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-01-2019, 05:46 PM   #15
Mini-Skoolie
 
Join Date: Oct 2014
Location: Asheville NC
Posts: 65
Year: 95
Chassis: TC2000
Engine: Bluebird
Quote:
Originally Posted by magnakansas View Post
the first tool you will use is called " automatic center punch" Look it up. You can use this one handed. then drill the center of rivet out. Or the head of the rivet. go watch videos about removing rivets air craft related. when you finally watch so many videos you are sick of it. the go out to the bus an do it.

good luck, I hope you are wearing eye protection to crap out of your eyes. How about hearing, huh? what did you say? see my point.

have removed thousands of rivets on all kinds of different stuff..... drills, punches, never a grinder, chisel,

william

This is good homework, thanks! I at least did have good ear protection on, a respirator & safety glasses. And leather gloves. Just not a chainmail shirt.
elliot_peas is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-01-2019, 07:13 PM   #16
Bus Geek
 
EastCoastCB's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2014
Location: Eustis FLORIDA
Posts: 23,764
Year: 1999
Coachwork: Thomas
Chassis: Freighliner FS65
Engine: Cat 3126
Rated Cap: 15
The only time I ever took the guard off my angle I had an accident. Lucky for me it was the grinder that was hurt and not myself.
Glad you didn't cut it off! Happy new year!
EastCoastCB is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-01-2019, 09:32 PM   #17
Bus Nut
 
TJones's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2017
Location: Rapid City, SD
Posts: 993
Year: 2001
Coachwork: Blue Bird
Chassis: CS RE
Engine: ISC 8.3 L 260 hp
Rated Cap: 36
Sorry you had an accident. From what I've read here the easiest way to take out rivets is with an air punch and chisel if you have access to a large air compressor.
It would be safer than working overhead with a grinder.

Ted
TJones is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-01-2019, 09:38 PM   #18
Bus Geek
 
EastCoastCB's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2014
Location: Eustis FLORIDA
Posts: 23,764
Year: 1999
Coachwork: Thomas
Chassis: Freighliner FS65
Engine: Cat 3126
Rated Cap: 15
Quote:
Originally Posted by TJones View Post
Sorry you had an accident. From what I've read here the easiest way to take out rivets is with an air punch and chisel if you have access to a large air compressor.
It would be safer than working overhead with a grinder.

Ted
MUCH easier
EastCoastCB is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-02-2019, 12:18 AM   #19
Skoolie
 
Join Date: Mar 2018
Location: CA, USA
Posts: 147
Year: 1992
Coachwork: sturdivan
Chassis: E-350
Engine: 7.3l IDI
Rated Cap: 10,000lbs
Quote:
Originally Posted by elliot_peas View Post
.... And leather gloves. ...

be careful with leather gloves, loose shirts etc, around spinning tools. sometimes the gloves will catch on the tool and pull your finger or arm or you into the tool and change a simple scratch into a much bigger problem.

Leather gloves were design to protect you from blisters and splinters when using a shovel or ax. A high spinning, high power electric tool can catch the leather and pull your finger in. They can change a cut in the skin into an amputation.
You never see a machinist wearing leather gloves. Maybe thin, easy to tear nitrile ones but not heavy leather gloves.

Don't be afraid, just respectful. Knowledge is power if you think about it.
__________________
Al
telegram: https://t.me/mr_alpine
portfolio: https://clickasnap.com/alpinekid
alpinekid is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-02-2019, 07:58 AM   #20
Mini-Skoolie
 
Join Date: Oct 2014
Location: Asheville NC
Posts: 65
Year: 95
Chassis: TC2000
Engine: Bluebird
Quote:
Originally Posted by alpinekid View Post
be careful with leather gloves, loose shirts etc, around spinning tools. sometimes the gloves will catch on the tool and pull your finger or arm or you into the tool and change a simple scratch into a much bigger problem.

Leather gloves were design to protect you from blisters and splinters when using a shovel or ax. A high spinning, high power electric tool can catch the leather and pull your finger in. They can change a cut in the skin into an amputation.
You never see a machinist wearing leather gloves. Maybe thin, easy to tear nitrile ones but not heavy leather gloves.

Don't be afraid, just respectful. Knowledge is power if you think about it.
Huh. I was using leather because of the sparks & metal shards flying from the grinder. You think nitrile would be a better idea?
elliot_peas is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


» Featured Campgrounds

Reviews provided by

Powered by vBadvanced CMPS v3.2.3

All times are GMT -5. The time now is 07:16 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.8 Beta 4
Copyright ©2000 - 2024, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.