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04-22-2018, 12:02 PM
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#1
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Mini-Skoolie
Join Date: Mar 2018
Posts: 24
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Spray foam vs Foam board
I know some of the pros and cons of using different insulation (cost, time) but what other differences are there?
Are the R-values much different?
What about moisture?
Radiant barriers?
I like the idea of spray foam. It seals holes. But what about "off gassing?"
Any knowledge and experience would be greatly appreciated.
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04-22-2018, 01:19 PM
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#2
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New Member
Join Date: May 2017
Posts: 7
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We decided to remove all Glass wool from the bus and replaced it with PIR-isolation plates, we used spray-foam (isolation PUR) to fill the unreachable areas and small spaces between/around the plates.
Our PIR-plates (50mm) have an Rd value of 2.72 ~ 2.32.
The isolation / Rd value of PUR (spray foam) is a little less. but still very good!
We discovered that if you process the PUR / SprayFoam in an hot environment (during a hot day) that huge air bubbles can appear within your isolation so keep the weater / temperature in mind!
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04-22-2018, 01:39 PM
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#3
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Mini-Skoolie
Join Date: Mar 2018
Posts: 24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KasperNL
We decided to remove all Glass wool from the bus and replaced it with PIR-isolation plates, we used spray-foam (isolation PUR) to fill the unreachable areas and small spaces between/around the plates.
Our PIR-plates (50mm) have an Rd value of 2.72 ~ 2.32.
The isolation / Rd value of PUR (spray foam) is a little less. but still very good!
We discovered that if you process the PUR / SprayFoam in an hot environment (during a hot day) that huge air bubbles can appear within your isolation so keep the weater / temperature in mind!
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Thanks for the tip!
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04-22-2018, 03:03 PM
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#4
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Bus Geek
Join Date: Sep 2017
Location: Owasso, OK
Posts: 2,627
Year: 1999
Coachwork: Thomas
Chassis: Saf-T-Liner MVP ER
Engine: Cummins 6CTA8.3 Mechanical MD3060
Rated Cap: 46 Coach Seats, 40 foot
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That foam sealant is not the foam to use.
Closed Cell Spray Foam has an R-Value of about 6 per inch depending on weight.
It seals, and insulates very well, and is the insulation of choice.
The downside is that it costs at least double the price of foam board that insulates almost as well but is a little trickier to seal.
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04-22-2018, 03:39 PM
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#5
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Mini-Skoolie
Join Date: Mar 2018
Posts: 24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Twigg
That foam sealant is not the foam to use.
Closed Cell Spray Foam has an R-Value of about 6 per inch depending on weight.
It seals, and insulates very well, and is the insulation of choice.
The downside is that it costs at least double the price of foam board that insulates almost as well but is a little trickier to seal.
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I think spending the extra money on insulation is well worth it, to install the best product.
Any negatives, though? Are there fumes being given off forever? Does it handle humid environments well? Does it mold?
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04-22-2018, 03:59 PM
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#6
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Bus Geek
Join Date: May 2016
Location: Eastern WA
Posts: 6,401
Year: 2002
Coachwork: Bluebird
Chassis: All American RE (A3RE)
Engine: Cummins ISC (8.3)
Rated Cap: 72
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Life And Stuff
I think spending the extra money on insulation is well worth it, to install the best product.
Any negatives, though? Are there fumes being given off forever? Does it handle humid environments well? Does it mold?
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I had my first bus spray foamed.
For a few weeks after having it sprayed you could smell a distinct odor from the foam. Especially in hot weather. By the time I moved in the smell was pretty much gone.
I lived full time for 6+ years covering 40+ states and never had any moisture or mold issues with the insulation.
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04-22-2018, 03:59 PM
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#7
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Bus Geek
Join Date: Sep 2017
Location: Owasso, OK
Posts: 2,627
Year: 1999
Coachwork: Thomas
Chassis: Saf-T-Liner MVP ER
Engine: Cummins 6CTA8.3 Mechanical MD3060
Rated Cap: 46 Coach Seats, 40 foot
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Life And Stuff
I think spending the extra money on insulation is well worth it, to install the best product.
Any negatives, though? Are there fumes being given off forever? Does it handle humid environments well? Does it mold?
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It's closed-cell and remains dry.
It has no issues with damp or mold.
The whole "off-gassing" thing is over-blown. A few sensitive folk might smell something when it's first installed. There are no known cases of the smell remaining beyond a few days, or of anyone becoming ill because of it.
They spray entire houses and commercial buildings with the stuff. If there were any real issues we would know by now.
I can't afford it. If I could, I'd use it. What I am most likely to do is use foam board for all the flat surfaces and ceiling, and buy a small kit for the end caps.
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04-22-2018, 04:02 PM
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#8
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Mini-Skoolie
Join Date: Mar 2018
Posts: 24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Twigg
It's closed-cell and remains dry.
It has no issues with damp or mold.
The whole "off-gassing" thing is over-blown. A few sensitive folk might smell something when it's first installed. There are no known cases of the smell remaining beyond a few days, or of anyone becoming ill because of it.
They spray entire houses and commercial buildings with the stuff. If there were any real issues we would know by now.
I can't afford it. If I could, I'd use it. What I am most likely to do is use foam board for all the flat surfaces and ceiling, and buy a small kit for the end caps.
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Awesome. Thanks.
I'm overly paranoid with the whole formaldehyde thing. And mold.
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04-22-2018, 04:02 PM
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#9
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Mini-Skoolie
Join Date: Mar 2018
Posts: 24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PNW_Steve
I had my first bus spray foamed.
For a few weeks after having it sprayed you could smell a distinct odor from the foam. Especially in hot weather. By the time I moved in the smell was pretty much gone.
I lived full time for 6+ years covering 40+ states and never had any moisture or mold issues with the insulation.
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Terrific to hear! Thanks
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04-22-2018, 05:04 PM
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#10
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Skoolie
Join Date: Jan 2018
Location: Colorado
Posts: 164
Year: 1995
Coachwork: Amtrans
Chassis: Genesis
Engine: DT466
Rated Cap: 20 (9 window handicap)
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There is a very nasty video out there of how fast spray foam ignites and how quickly fire spreads (it was in a simulated home environment), and the thick black smoke that it gives off if it ever catches fire is frightening.
For that reason, I would stick to fire resistant closed cell spray foam. Or some of the companies use a "Intumescent" paint like coating over the top that is some very cool chemical magic that makes it significantly more fire resistant.
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04-22-2018, 05:20 PM
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#11
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Mini-Skoolie
Join Date: Mar 2018
Posts: 24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tigerman67
There is a very nasty video out there of how fast spray foam ignites and how quickly fire spreads (it was in a simulated home environment), and the thick black smoke that it gives off if it ever catches fire is frightening.
For that reason, I would stick to fire resistant closed cell spray foam. Or some of the companies use a "Intumescent" paint like coating over the top that is some very cool chemical magic that makes it significantly more fire resistant.
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...wow... Thanks!
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07-01-2018, 11:12 AM
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#12
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New Member
Join Date: May 2018
Posts: 9
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I have seen some reports of badly applied spray foam not curing properly and emitting noxious chemicals. It certainly is not all the time, but it is celar to me that if I were to use spray foam, I would want it put in by an established, reputable, and responsible company.
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07-01-2018, 12:19 PM
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#13
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Mini-Skoolie
Join Date: Apr 2018
Location: Revelstoke, BC, Canada
Posts: 65
Year: 1995
Coachwork: Blue Bird
Engine: Cummins 8.3l 12v
Rated Cap: 84 pax
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Twigg
If there were any real issues we would know by now..
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Bet they said the same about asbestos just before etc..
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07-01-2018, 08:22 PM
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#14
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Bus Crazy
Join Date: Dec 2015
Location: pa
Posts: 2,498
Year: 98
Coachwork: 1. Corbeil & 2. Thomas
Chassis: 1 ford 1998 e350 4x4 7.3 2 mercedes 2004
Engine: 7.3 powerstroke & MBE906
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We have installed spray foam, high density and icenene in several building, some of it I have done myself. I have had no issues with side effects and either way it would be very hard to proof that it has a relation to my wife's and daughter's asthma.
but;
https://www.epa.gov/saferchoice/heal...yurethane-foam
Our knowledge and acceptance will always be years after the facts.
lead paint....smoking.... sugar....agent orange,.... depleted uranium,... the list is endless. I worked for years in nuclear power plants and for years my bosses told me that it was only bad for you at a huge dosis. Not that i believed that anyway.
Pick your poison, we are going to die... but if you are nervous about the side effects then I think it would be safer to go with aluminum foil foam board and seal / glue the edges with expanding foam.
Good luck making a decision.
later J
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07-01-2018, 08:33 PM
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#15
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Bus Geek
Join Date: Dec 2017
Location: Dawsonville, Ga.
Posts: 10,482
Year: 1999
Coachwork: Genesis
Chassis: International
Engine: DT466/3060
Rated Cap: 77
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The only negative comments I have read in reviews is if you put it on too thick it doesn't cure properly in the center and may edit fumes. I'm sure it's not a problem when done professionally because they, I'm sure, know that by the time they start charging customers.
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07-09-2018, 11:45 PM
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#16
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Bus Nut
Join Date: Feb 2018
Location: Tahoe
Posts: 513
Year: 1997
Coachwork: International
Chassis: 3000RE
Engine: T444E w/ MT643
Rated Cap: 84 pass, 40'
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Life And Stuff
I think spending the extra money on insulation is well worth it, to install the best product.
Any negatives, though? Are there fumes being given off forever? Does it handle humid environments well? Does it mold?
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My spray foam arrived today. I got the TigerFoam which is a better moisture barrier than foam it green. Foam it green is a class 2 moisture barrier. I have a few more things to do to be ready to spray it. If the nozzle clogs it.can come out of the 2 tanks unequally which is problematic. You *do* have to be careful to follow the directions.
__________________
middle aged mom on a learning adventure
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07-10-2018, 04:48 AM
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#17
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Bus Geek
Join Date: Sep 2014
Location: Eustis FLORIDA
Posts: 23,764
Year: 1999
Coachwork: Thomas
Chassis: Freighliner FS65
Engine: Cat 3126
Rated Cap: 15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by o1marc
The only negative comments I have read in reviews is if you put it on too thick it doesn't cure properly in the center and may edit fumes. I'm sure it's not a problem when done professionally because they, I'm sure, know that by the time they start charging customers.
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"professionals" trying to finish in one pass is the main reason for the improper curing.
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07-10-2018, 09:20 AM
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#18
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Bus Geek
Join Date: Dec 2017
Location: Dawsonville, Ga.
Posts: 10,482
Year: 1999
Coachwork: Genesis
Chassis: International
Engine: DT466/3060
Rated Cap: 77
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Quote:
Originally Posted by EastCoastCB
"professionals" trying to finish in one pass is the main reason for the improper curing.
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And never by inexperienced first time DIY'ers.
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07-10-2018, 11:22 AM
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#19
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Bus Geek
Join Date: Sep 2014
Location: Eustis FLORIDA
Posts: 23,764
Year: 1999
Coachwork: Thomas
Chassis: Freighliner FS65
Engine: Cat 3126
Rated Cap: 15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by o1marc
And never by inexperienced first time DIY'ers.
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Everyone I know that's done their own has had a very nice finished result.
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08-27-2018, 09:17 PM
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#20
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Almost There
Join Date: Jun 2018
Location: Florida
Posts: 73
Year: 1999
Coachwork: Thomas Build
Chassis: International
Engine: 466E
Rated Cap: 66
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Reviving this because I like the information here so far but would love to hear more opinions.
When choosing the foam board route, what have some of you done to get it sealed enough to not trap "sweat" in between the roof and board?
The spray foam is pricy, I would likely hire someone if I were to choose the way, but I'm still going back and forth so much.
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