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Old 05-08-2022, 03:39 PM   #41
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Now I see why your wife took the paint away from you. I take it you're a wife abuser and threw it at her? Not cool.

Anyway, it seems that DeMac has a couple friends on here and they just want to trash the thread. I'm punching out and abandoning this thread to the mods to ban those who abuse others. Goodbye.

AND......
My ignore list just grew by one

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Old 05-08-2022, 03:46 PM   #42
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Btw, my mechanic's name is Moses.
MOSES AUTO LLC
3968 SW 131st Place Rd Ocala, 34473

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Old 05-08-2022, 03:52 PM   #43
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Moses apparently doesn't understand the concept of "safe spaces".


That's okay though. I understand the concept and it makes me laugh.
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Old 05-08-2022, 03:54 PM   #44
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Haha that’s some funny stuff going on! I take a few months off and look at all the sh*t disturbing going on.
Thanks for the entertainment guys, awesome. carry on
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Old 05-09-2022, 02:44 PM   #45
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Mod hat on:

Knock it off.

We are adults here (mostly) and the play yard shenanigans in this thread drag down the board. Leave the insults, social comments and threats at the door.

Sheesh.
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Old 05-09-2022, 05:15 PM   #46
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thats no fun?
we were just talking about painting a bus material methods and techniques MOM?
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Old 05-09-2022, 06:03 PM   #47
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4) If any time has passed since 3, clean shortly before painting with a 'no rinse' cleaner like TSP / TSP substitute.
I recently bought the last "real" TSP from my local Home Despot (they now only stock the emasculated phosphate-phree version), and the box's instructions say to rinse it off. What happens if it isn't rinsed off? Will it affect the paint's adhesion?

John
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Old 05-09-2022, 06:18 PM   #48
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I recently bought the last "real" TSP from my local Home Despot (they now only stock the emasculated phosphate-phree version), and the box's instructions say to rinse it off. What happens if it isn't rinsed off? Will it affect the paint's adhesion?
John

If it's been victimized by the idiots in charge by removing the phosphate then it's no longer TSP. I'll bet however, that something can be found that's far more effective (and far more toxic) like muriatic acid. Gotta love the green religion
I used to use muriatic acid to clean out sea shells. Find a good dilution that does the job.
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Old 05-09-2022, 06:57 PM   #49
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Originally Posted by Iceni John View Post
I recently bought the last "real" TSP from my local Home Despot (they now only stock the emasculated phosphate-phree version), and the box's instructions say to rinse it off. What happens if it isn't rinsed off? Will it affect the paint's adhesion?

John

I'd do whatever the manufacturer suggests. Certainly wouldn't hurt to do a final rinse / dry.
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Old 05-10-2022, 01:13 PM   #50
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I've built and painted a dozen party buses in my life. Most I rolled on rustoleum but the last two I hand brush painted. Air spraying will get best quality with some practice but I had neither the equipment nor the enclosed shop environment for such an endeavor.

Prep work is 95% of the battle. A good washing and proper thorough sanding is key. Another good washing after sanding. Priming is necessary anywhere you've got exposed metal and recommended even over existing paint.

I switched to brushes over rollers as with brushes I was able to do more thinner coats to had less issues with dripping and a slightly nicer finish. Quality brushes is key, the cheap disposables will leave brush strokes in the finish and tons of the brush hairs in the paint. Brush takes significantly more time, especially with 3+ coats.

Bussy mcbusface on YouTube had an excellent video series for "professional amateur" air spraying if you want to learn.
https://youtu.be/1UjE5rsdNOw
That's what I'll be doing with my TSLABUS.
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Old 05-11-2022, 07:45 AM   #51
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"Reported for being combative"?
I edited my post. No sense on giving free advice to those who don't appreciate it.
DeMac is an incredible source of knowledge. Good job, OP. Well-played lol.
Agreed. I'd thank you, but it seems I need to spread it around.

Good luck brows, though, with all the mud slinging and reporting I have a feeling your time here will be short.

For those that care, most automotive finishers use spray as it provides a uniform and even surface. Much better then any roller or brush. Is that to say you can't get a uniform and even surface with rolling or brush, no, it's just to say that spraying does a better job.

You can get drips and runs with either method.

It's your bus, do as wish, splatter it on with a cup if that's what you want to do. Nobody is here to tell you how you have to do it.
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Old 05-14-2022, 03:32 PM   #52
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Rubber roll on

Hello,
I used the elastomeric paint for the sides, top, all the paint. 5 gallon bucket at lowes for r.v, don't need the ceramic, nit worth the $$$ over the other. Good reflective help and sheds the heat better. Wash and roll every two years and waterproofs at the same time. My 2 cents.
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Old 05-14-2022, 03:40 PM   #53
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Hello,
I used the elastomeric paint for the sides, top, all the paint. 5 gallon bucket at lowes for r.v, don't need the ceramic, nit worth the $$$ over the other. Good reflective help and sheds the heat better. Wash and roll every two years and waterproofs at the same time. My 2 cents.
thats a b700 short shortie.
what motor do you have?
8.2 or 5.9 or the gas motor?
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Old 05-16-2022, 09:11 AM   #54
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Originally Posted by HalfCab907 View Post
Hello,
I used the elastomeric paint for the sides, top, all the paint. 5 gallon bucket at lowes for r.v, don't need the ceramic, nit worth the $$$ over the other. Good reflective help and sheds the heat better. Wash and roll every two years and waterproofs at the same time. My 2 cents.
Doesn't an elastomeric show/hold dirt really well? I thought that's what I was told and that's my experience with rv/camper roofs. Works great for waterproofing like you say, but showing dirt/grime/fingerprints that easily on a roof it doesn't matter, because who's gonna see that up there, but the sides would be a no-go from me.
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Old 05-16-2022, 01:37 PM   #55
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ManWithNoBrows View Post
Hi guys. So, I noticed that everyone seems to use spray paint on the exterior of their bus, but I know full well that spray paint drips and you have less control over the strokes.

What's the reason why no one seems to use a paint brush and a bucket of paint? Does it just take longer or something?
Not everyone sprays. Spray paint doesn't drip without reason-too cold, too thin, overspraying, wrong equipment....

Brushing is perfectly viable and preferable if you do not have experience with spraying (or a friend with equipment who does). Read up on paint additives, as there may be things you can do with the paint to get a nice smooth finish. Do not use vinyl or alkyd paint, even though some here have done so successfully. It must be an enamel to hold up over time (not chalk or peel).

It's okay to experiment with different methods and paints to figure out what works best for you.

I recommend you consider vinyl wrap for your bus. You'll get the cool effect without having to argue, or learn anything about painting.
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Old 05-16-2022, 07:46 PM   #56
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Originally Posted by Booyah45828 View Post
Doesn't an elastomeric show/hold dirt really well? I thought that's what I was told and that's my experience with rv/camper roofs. Works great for waterproofing like you say, but showing dirt/grime/fingerprints that easily on a roof it doesn't matter, because who's gonna see that up there, but the sides would be a no-go from me.
Why he re-applies it every 2 years. Eventually it gets all gooped up and you gotta scrape ALL that to use actual paint.
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Old 05-16-2022, 10:12 PM   #57
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I don't know, but I do have tropi-kool on my bus roof. 4-plus years and you wash it, it's white. It's a smooth rubber coating, and can be a bit delicate. But white it is.

Parking under sappy trees might be a problem for it, and maybe some of those weird bugs that we don't have here.
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Old 05-17-2022, 07:58 AM   #58
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I rolled a whole bus.. it took me forever to do it.. and the paint is arguably not as shiny and pretty as the busses i had sprayed...



*BUT*


the oil based enamel (rustoleum pro white paint (comes in gray cans not white)) seems to be really durable.. while you cant create that new-car shine with it you can create a nice looking finish..



the bus i did had 4 coats of paint already on it and 2 of those coats were terrible quality.. I lightly sanded the whole bus with 220 grit (by hand and with a palm sander in the big areas)..



I washed the whole bus down with a strong solution of dawn and water.. then I did the sanding.. after the sanding I wiped a section at a time down with mineral spirits.. id wipe it down wait about 15 minutes then paint that section.. wipe another with spirits and so on.. I used small touch up rollers as they could reach well and left me with very little brushing to do. I masked places like the windows.. mirrors and lights I took off as i wanted to have fresh paint under the lights and mirror brackets.



I did 2 coats on each section till the bus was done..



while it probably looks more like a restored tractor instead of a classic car.. i can very easily touch up the paint mishaps ill be sure to have over the years.. no worries like i have with the sprayed busses in trying to color match and brush on touch-up over a sprayed surface....



I had a few bugs in the paint but geberally i painted between 9 or 10am and 4 or 5 pm when the sun is hottest (bus is in the shade) and bugs are the least...
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Old 05-17-2022, 11:22 AM   #59
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Mod hat on:

Knock it off.

We are adults here (mostly) and the play yard shenanigans in this thread drag down the board. Leave the insults, social comments and threats at the door.

Sheesh.
While I don't condone stupidity on these chats, I have acknowledged experienced members, with long history on any site, tend to form a natural immune system that reacts immediately to infections. Being fairly unfamiliar myself to the site.....
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