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Old 12-12-2016, 02:09 PM   #1
Join Date: Dec 2016
Posts: 43
Squared-Off Roof?

Has anyone considered or actually installed a squared off roof? I've been wondering if it would make any sense to custom build supports and then panel with steel or aluminum so the roof is no longer curved. I could use the space for running various systems such as the wiring or plumbing. Putting this outside means it could be easier for me to access for maintenance as it wouldn't be sealed inside my walls or ceiling by the spray foam insulation.

It probably doesn't make sense...thoughts?
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Old 12-22-2016, 01:41 PM   #2
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Location: BC Canada
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I'm considering the insulation issues of the ceiling, I already fully understand how to do the floor insulation stuff. But I was thinking, why not put all the new insulation on top of the bus and building a faut roof that matches the original shape of the roof, and that's where I can easily add a ton of insulation against both heat and cold. I haven't worked out the logistics about to do add it on top short of a new fibreglass structure. Maybe doing it square like you suggest would work too so my rounding edges that won't be nice and perfect will not show as bad.
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Old 12-22-2016, 05:13 PM   #3
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Location: South Western PA
Posts: 164
stick and tin RV's have some pitch to their roofs, side to side - not a lot - and a rubber membrane over that. Some say the rubber isn't good for more than 10 years, others think less than that.

So you'll want to probably go metal or maybe fiberglas.

As for structure..RV's have little trusses from what I've seen i build vids and cutaways - 2x2 framing with an arch on top.

Easy enough to 'scab' something likethat on top of the roof and sheath in the sides with metal and then roof over the top after some plywood sheathing.

Advantages I see is you don't have to do anything to the stock interior ceiling at all.
You can add as much insulation as you want.
Make the shape anything you want (more square, more round, flat, etc)
The new roof could cover the roof exits so you'd have no leaks.
room to run anything, wiring, plumbing, heating and a/c ductwork, etc.
Without putting the insulation inside the ceiling height woulnd't change..that's good!

Hmm..now you got me thinking. Even if you did it it steel it might not be bad, cost and time wise.
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Old 12-22-2016, 10:52 PM   #4
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Join Date: May 2016
Location: Richmond Virginia
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Wow what a great idea, now it got me thinking too. What about a second parts bus; chop that roof off with say a ft of side, then attach over the current roof but fill space with insulation.

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Old 12-29-2016, 11:31 PM   #5
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Location: SW New Hampshire
Posts: 1,334
I had been thinking about doing a 16" roof raise, insulating the roof as described in the "conventional" way (like anything about this is conventional) and then installing a "drop ceiling" at about 7 feet. The edges of the ceiling would hit the curve of the roof about 6" over the top line of the windows, and leave a "half moon" shaped area above the ceiling to run wiring, HVAC ducting, put in audio/video goodies, hide small badgers, etc.

I haven't seen that done; has anyone ever tried deliberately removing head clearance (after having installed excess) in this fashion? Does it sound dumb?
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Old 12-30-2016, 07:03 AM   #6
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Location: hills of sw virginia
Posts: 889
Year: 1996
Chassis: thomas
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sounds good to me, that round roof lets the bus roll easier.
living in a bus down by the river.
my build pics
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