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Old 01-19-2018, 02:36 PM   #21
Mini-Skoolie
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by EastCoastCB View Post
For what Reflectix costs, you can buy good insulation!
As I've said before- just stick some mylar to some bubblewrap and you have reflectix for pennies.
What would you consider good insulation?

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Old 01-19-2018, 02:51 PM   #22
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What would you consider good insulation?
spray foam, or rigid foam (rigid is best for floor and some sides, spray foam best for sides and roof)
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Old 01-19-2018, 04:26 PM   #23
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Originally Posted by Iheartbus View Post
spray foam, or rigid foam (rigid is best for floor and some sides, spray foam best for sides and roof)
I agree with this.

I can't afford spray foam, so mine will get at least 2" of rigid foam all round, cut to fit and with all gaps filled.
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Old 01-19-2018, 04:27 PM   #24
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Originally Posted by Omingnome View Post
What would you consider good insulation?
Closed cell foam board. Or spray foam if you're spendy.
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Old 01-19-2018, 06:13 PM   #25
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My computer sucks my problem.
Somebody mentioned POLYISO insul.?
I ain't the insululater for my jobs but I have seen poly ISO used on in the proper thickness on 2200 degree steam pipe and on negative 50 brine,chilled water.
Go to requirements now.
I have not had to DEMO any installs done with it YET?
For the steam and piping itself ?We know the piping whether underground or in a building it only has a 20 year lifespan regardless of insulation including schedule 80 steel pipe
You should always make sure that your insulation manufacturer specs is compatible with the install. And with tar coating it will be.
Some spray foam mess is not compatible and will actually eat the metal over time
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Old 04-27-2018, 12:05 AM   #26
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I took the fiberglass out of the sides of the bus but decided to keep the metal panels since I'm not taking out the windows. My plan was to add a layer of foam board insulation and paneling over the metal sides. I was thinking of putting reflectix under the metal panels between the ribs (I figured something was better than nothing) but not sure if that would be worthwhile or just a waste of $$. Its really hard to lift the metal up and reach under there so foam board would be kind of a pain in the booty... I'm in AZ so more concerned with keeping things cool than warm.
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Old 04-27-2018, 12:18 AM   #27
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Mylar stuck to curtains with 3m spray glue works great on Windows!

Living in California we had a huge single pane window mylar on a curtain worked as well or better than the reflectix and it stays in the window
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Old 02-23-2019, 05:47 PM   #28
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Reconsider Reflextix

I just joined the site and am looking for a bus -- so pretty much laying low.
I noticed a lot of folks using Reflectix in their builds and wanted to make sure everyone is aware of its true insulating value. If its installed without an air gap on the hot side its R value is about one -- not what many would thing based on the manufacturer's advertising.
Don't get me wrong, it has its uses. I used some recently on some ductwork.
There is a great discussion here that should clarify where its truly useful and where alternatives are better applied.
https://www.greenbuildingadvisor.com...ed-bubble-wrap
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Old 12-07-2019, 04:17 PM   #29
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Here's a video that shows how to create airspace (which, YES, is very important if using Reflectix or Atticfoil https://atticfoil.com/index.php/appl...ixed-climates/
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Old 12-07-2019, 08:46 PM   #30
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Originally Posted by Shannon Elhart View Post
Here's a video that shows how to create airspace (which, YES, is very important if using Reflectix or Atticfoil https://atticfoil.com/index.php/appl...ixed-climates/
Amazon has some amazing deals on mylar and bubblewrap if you must go the reflectiz route.
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