Journey with Confidence RV GPS App RV Trip Planner RV LIFE Campground Reviews RV Maintenance Take a Speed Test Free 7 Day Trial ×


Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
 
Old 02-08-2018, 03:23 PM   #1
Mini-Skoolie
 
Join Date: Dec 2017
Location: California
Posts: 16
Year: 1995
Coachwork: Girardin
Chassis: Ford E350
Engine: 7.3 Powerstroke
Subfloor Fasteners for Aluminum

So i have recently pulled up my subfloor, which were super clean, because the floor of the body is aluminum. I did have some corrosion where carbon steel bolts had been added later (Probably by the school district) so it got me thinking, what type of fasteners should I use for attaching plywood subfloor to the aluminium. The original screws were a square drive with a self taping cutter. They look like black carbon steel, but they may have been coated. The whole interior and exterior floor were coated with asphalt coating.
Just trying to secure the subfloor and avoid galvanic corrosion. Any information would be appreciated.

sugarpinedanny is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-12-2018, 02:52 PM   #2
Mini-Skoolie
 
Join Date: Dec 2017
Location: California
Posts: 16
Year: 1995
Coachwork: Girardin
Chassis: Ford E350
Engine: 7.3 Powerstroke
I can't be the only one that has ever had an Aluminum subfloor. am I?
sugarpinedanny is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-12-2018, 03:17 PM   #3
Traveling
 
Join Date: Nov 2015
Location: Midwest
Posts: 2,573
Year: 2003
Coachwork: BlueBird
Chassis: TC2000
Engine: 5.9L Cummins
Rated Cap: '00
Quote:
Originally Posted by sugarpinedanny View Post
I can't be the only one that has ever had an Aluminum subfloor. am I?
Well, to be safe, you could counter-sink the plywood and use rivets with washers, i suppose.

https://www.hunker.com/12502151/scre...-with-aluminum

How to safely use stainless steel screws in aluminum

Aluminium Corrosion Resistance - Aluminium Design

https://www.anochrome.com/wp-content...012/01/NOF.pdf
Rusty is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-12-2018, 03:24 PM   #4
Skoolie
 
Join Date: Jan 2018
Location: Raleigh, NC
Posts: 102
Year: 1995
Coachwork: Thomas
Chassis: Saf-T-Liner ER
Engine: Cummins ISC 8.3 Allison MD3060
I am a complete newbie so take this with a grain of salt, but from a lot of the videos I have seen, a lot of folks don't use anything. They basically have a floating floor. Put down wooden strips, in between the insulation then the sub floor on top of it. Most I have seen use tongue and groove flooring for this.

Then their theory is the weight of the cabinets and everything in the bus would hold the floor in place.

I don't know if this is wise or not, just what I have seen some folks do.. I am sure others are more adapt to tell you a better solution.

James
JamieJackson is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-12-2018, 03:54 PM   #5
Bus Geek
 
Join Date: Sep 2017
Location: Owasso, OK
Posts: 2,627
Year: 1999
Coachwork: Thomas
Chassis: Saf-T-Liner MVP ER
Engine: Cummins 6CTA8.3 Mechanical MD3060
Rated Cap: 46 Coach Seats, 40 foot
Quote:
Originally Posted by JamieJackson View Post
I am a complete newbie so take this with a grain of salt, but from a lot of the videos I have seen, a lot of folks don't use anything. They basically have a floating floor. Put down wooden strips, in between the insulation then the sub floor on top of it. Most I have seen use tongue and groove flooring for this.

Then their theory is the weight of the cabinets and everything in the bus would hold the floor in place.

I don't know if this is wise or not, just what I have seen some folks do.. I am sure others are more adapt to tell you a better solution.

James
A floating floor works well.

It doesn't really "float", as framing for walls and other items are screwed down through the new floor and into the walls.
__________________
Steve Bracken

Build Thread
Twigg is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-12-2018, 04:33 PM   #6
Traveling
 
Join Date: Nov 2015
Location: Midwest
Posts: 2,573
Year: 2003
Coachwork: BlueBird
Chassis: TC2000
Engine: 5.9L Cummins
Rated Cap: '00
Quote:
Originally Posted by Twigg View Post
A floating floor works well.

It doesn't really "float", as framing for walls and other items are screwed down through the new floor and into the walls.
Best method is floor is screwed down and everything else is secured to horizontal studs attached to ribs. Nothing attached to floor.

At least that's how the pro's do it.
Rusty is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-12-2018, 08:08 PM   #7
Mini-Skoolie
 
Join Date: Dec 2017
Location: California
Posts: 16
Year: 1995
Coachwork: Girardin
Chassis: Ford E350
Engine: 7.3 Powerstroke
Quote:
Originally Posted by Rusty View Post
Best method is floor is screwed down and everything else is secured to horizontal studs attached to ribs. Nothing attached to floor.

At least that's how the pro's do it.
This was exactly my plan, I was just trying to figure what kind of screws were best for wood to aluminum. I am probably going to just use teks with the spex coating. They do not say they are rated for corrosion resistance in aluminum, but it really seems to be the best choice.
sugarpinedanny is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


» Featured Campgrounds

Reviews provided by

Powered by vBadvanced CMPS v3.2.3

All times are GMT -5. The time now is 02:47 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.8 Beta 4
Copyright ©2000 - 2024, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.