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Old 05-06-2016, 08:48 PM   #21
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I would love to raise the roof... but the budget just won't allow it!!

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Old 05-06-2016, 10:02 PM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by California Dreamer View Post
I want to forewarn anyone that's going to put in insulation on your subfloor ... Ouch I already hit my head just watching the video
Your being the key word. If you actually watched my videos I already said that I will be using a stool. Being 6'4" without shoes I am screwed no matter what.

Thanks for watching though.
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Old 05-07-2016, 05:50 AM   #23
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Your being the key word. If you actually watched my videos I already said that I will be using a stool. Being 6'4" without shoes I am screwed no matter what.

Thanks for watching though.
buy a bus with 6'8" ceilings
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Old 05-07-2016, 08:52 AM   #24
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Originally Posted by superdave View Post
buy a bus with 6'8" ceilings
So that I can walk (only down the center) in a 200sqft area that has even less actual floor space? In a bus that probably isn't what we were exactly looking for.

Hey while I'm at it why insulate at all? Should have just kept the nasty rubber floor thrown plywood over it. Left the walls and ceiling as is because the insulation that they use in buses is such high quality right??

So now that I have saved money, live in a uncomfortable space that is not efficient for heating or cooling, and can hear everything outside while I'm sleeping. But can walk down the center aisle with limited headroom. Just is not what I wanted in a skoolie.

The whole point is to build it how your going to use it, right?
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Old 05-07-2016, 09:43 AM   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Josiahdr View Post
So that I can walk (only down the center) in a 200sqft area that has even less actual floor space? In a bus that probably isn't what we were exactly looking for.

Hey while I'm at it why insulate at all? Should have just kept the nasty rubber floor thrown plywood over it. Left the walls and ceiling as is because the insulation that they use in buses is such high quality right??

So now that I have saved money, live in a uncomfortable space that is not efficient for heating or cooling, and can hear everything outside while I'm sleeping. But can walk down the center aisle with limited headroom. Just is not what I wanted in a skoolie.

The whole point is to build it how your going to use it, right?
Exactly Right!!!
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Old 05-08-2016, 12:09 PM   #26
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Exactly Right!!!
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Old 05-08-2016, 06:31 PM   #27
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So is there a roof raise in your future?
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Old 05-08-2016, 11:17 PM   #28
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So is there a roof raise in your future?
Nope going to use a stool or be sitting any way. And there is no ceiling outside.
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Old 05-09-2016, 05:47 AM   #29
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Josiahdr View Post
So that I can walk (only down the center) in a 200sqft area that has even less actual floor space? In a bus that probably isn't what we were exactly looking for.

Hey while I'm at it why insulate at all? Should have just kept the nasty rubber floor thrown plywood over it. Left the walls and ceiling as is because the insulation that they use in buses is such high quality right??

So now that I have saved money, live in a uncomfortable space that is not efficient for heating or cooling, and can hear everything outside while I'm sleeping. But can walk down the center aisle with limited headroom. Just is not what I wanted in a skoolie.

The whole point is to build it how your going to use it, right?
yes , only down the center, most fill the sides of the bus up will the kitchen and bath and shower and sitting area. are you planing on building everything in the middle and walking down the sides of the bus?
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Old 05-09-2016, 02:53 PM   #30
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Quote:
Originally Posted by superdave View Post
yes , only down the center, most fill the sides of the bus up will the kitchen and bath and shower and sitting area. are you planing on building everything in the middle and walking down the sides of the bus?
I am boggled by the stupidity of the question....


No of course not.
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Old 05-09-2016, 06:56 PM   #31
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It's ideal for kids to chase each other, or if you're having an argument with your precious.
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Old 05-24-2016, 07:54 AM   #32
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Seeria View Post
While we are on this flooring topic...

Is it possible to use radiant barrier type goodies Radiant Technology Composites |
THEN put plywood down rather than putting in foam boards? Would it still be the same effect Rvalue wise?
Yeah, so has anyone used this stuff? ...or have any idea of how to minimally impact your vertical space, while still employing subfloor/insulation?
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Old 09-15-2017, 07:26 AM   #33
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Quote:
Originally Posted by turtle View Post
Now that I've faced reality and tore up the plywood to start from the steal base, I'm wondering about sealing the holes in the floor. Would it be helpful to actually leave holes in the steal for better ventilation for your red rosin paper(or vapor barrier) and plywood? Why seal the holes at all?

turtle
I used pennies with silicone. Low cost and did the trick
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Old 10-13-2021, 11:20 PM   #34
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Subfloor

Hi everyone!!
Hoping ur all safe and healthy!!
So am I securing my plywood subfloor to the original metal factory floor with screws that go all the way through the floor?

How do I prevent moisture from creeping in on the screws and through the screw holes?

Iím concerned that any moisture could consolidate under the ply, rotting it out or causing more rust at each screw.

Any advice is welcome.

Thank you very much!!
Happy travels!!
Frank.
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Old 10-14-2021, 08:28 AM   #35
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rustynails View Post
So am I securing my plywood subfloor to the original metal factory floor with screws that go all the way through the floor?

How do I prevent moisture from creeping in on the screws and through the screw holes?

I’m concerned that any moisture could consolidate under the ply, rotting it out or causing more rust at each screw.
A lot of people have done the screws-through-the-metal-floor thing and nobody has ever reported water damage coming from underneath. The tip of the screw will passivate (i.e. surface rust a little bit), but this causes it to swell and seal the opening completely. In a standard school bus (like an International), the chair rail side beam is attached to the floor with sheet metal screws that go through the floor exactly like this, and this does not allow water inside from underneath.

If you were especially concerned, you could nip off the tips of the screws on the underside and glop a bit of polyurethane sealant on them (at least in the areas you could reach), but this really wouldn't be necessary. Many people also just glue down their subfloors and this seems to work fine as well.

On my bus, I welded wood screws to the steel floor and spun 2" pieces of dowel rod onto them through matching holes in my foam board insulation and then screwed my plywood flooring into the dowels from above. This gave a solid mechanical connection between the plywood and the steel floor without putting any holes in the steel, but this was a fair amount of extra work and not really necessary (in my case it was more to strengthen the steel floor which had suffered some serious corrosion).
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Old 10-14-2021, 11:43 AM   #36
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Type of screws

Quote:
Originally Posted by musigenesis View Post
A lot of people have done the screws-through-the-metal-floor thing and nobody has ever reported water damage coming from underneath. The tip of the screw will passivate (i.e. surface rust a little bit), but this causes it to swell and seal the opening completely. In a standard school bus (like an International), the chair rail side beam is attached to the floor with sheet metal screws that go through the floor exactly like this, and this does not allow water inside from underneath.

If you were especially concerned, you could nip off the tips of the screws on the underside and glop a bit of polyurethane sealant on them (at least in the areas you could reach), but this really wouldn't be necessary. Many people also just glue down their subfloors and this seems to work fine as well.

On my bus, I welded wood screws to the steel floor and spun 2" pieces of dowel rod onto them through matching holes in my foam board insulation and then screwed my plywood flooring into the dowels from above. This gave a solid mechanical connection between the plywood and the steel floor without putting any holes in the steel, but this was a fair amount of extra work and not really necessary (in my case it was more to strengthen the steel floor which had suffered some serious corrosion).

Thank you very much!!!
Now what type of screws should I use? Iím assuming 2 and 3 inch self tappers? Does it matter if itís a flat head? Iv found several types with varying prices.
Thank you again!!
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Old 10-14-2021, 11:57 AM   #37
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rustynails View Post
Thank you very much!!!
Now what type of screws should I use? Iím assuming 2 and 3 inch self tappers? Does it matter if itís a flat head? Iv found several types with varying prices.
Thank you again!!
Self-tappers would work, or sheet metal screws in pre-drilled holes. I think you'd definitely want flatheads, since roundheads would stick up and mess up whatever flooring you're using on top of the plywood.

Be careful about where your screws are going, since you wouldn't want to hit one of the seams between floor panels (these will appear as a side-to-side groove in the floor from above) or where the stiffeners underneath are running. Also make sure your plywood has about a 1/8" gap all around to allow for expansion from heat and humidity, otherwise you might get buckling.
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Old 10-14-2021, 01:02 PM   #38
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I use stainless screws on everything going through metal.. mainly so i can take them apart later if I want.. and also so if they are outside i dont get those Fugly rust streaks running down the side where a screw rusts
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Old 10-14-2021, 08:30 PM   #39
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Thank you very much!!

Iíd like to thank those skoolies/campers that responded to my questions. You offered sound advice and we really appreciate you.
Happy trails and safe travels!!
Frank
PS: Iím sure Iíll be back with a few more questions in the future.
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