Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
 
Old 01-15-2018, 10:57 AM   #1
Mini-Skoolie
 
Join Date: Jan 2018
Location: Grants Pass, Oregon
Posts: 41
Year: 1991
Coachwork: Bluebird
Chassis: TC/2000
Engine: 5.9l Cummins
Rated Cap: 72 - 27800
T 1-11 subfloor?

Looking around at all the threads about sub flooring, anyone ever try T1-11 instead of plywood? Does it off gas harmful chemicals? Seems like it would work better than plywood with that awesome coating on it.

Not into the foam board idea
Enrico Carini is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-15-2018, 11:27 AM   #2
Bus Geek
 
Join Date: Sep 2017
Location: Owasso, OK
Posts: 2,627
Year: 1999
Coachwork: Thomas
Chassis: Saf-T-Liner MVP ER
Engine: Cummins 6CTA8.3 Mechanical MD3060
Rated Cap: 46 Coach Seats, 40 foot
Quote:
Originally Posted by Enrico Carini View Post
Looking around at all the threads about sub flooring, anyone ever try T1-11 instead of plywood? Does it off gas harmful chemicals? Seems like it would work better than plywood with that awesome coating on it.

Not into the foam board idea
Why are you not into foam board? It is designed for the job.
__________________
Steve Bracken

Build Thread
Twigg is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-15-2018, 11:42 AM   #3
Mini-Skoolie
 
Join Date: Jan 2018
Location: Grants Pass, Oregon
Posts: 41
Year: 1991
Coachwork: Bluebird
Chassis: TC/2000
Engine: 5.9l Cummins
Rated Cap: 72 - 27800
Quote:
Originally Posted by Twigg View Post
Why are you not into foam board? It is designed for the job.
Mostly because I'm 6'4" in a 6'2" bus so I'd like to keep the floor as thin as possible
Enrico Carini is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-15-2018, 11:45 AM   #4
Bus Geek
 
Join Date: Sep 2017
Location: Owasso, OK
Posts: 2,627
Year: 1999
Coachwork: Thomas
Chassis: Saf-T-Liner MVP ER
Engine: Cummins 6CTA8.3 Mechanical MD3060
Rated Cap: 46 Coach Seats, 40 foot
Quote:
Originally Posted by Enrico Carini View Post
Mostly because I'm 6'4" in a 6'2" bus so I'd like to keep the floor as thin as possible
A reasonable point.

It's going to depend on how you plan on using the bus. SHort camping trips in moderate weather, just bung down 1/2" ply and a laminate on top.

However, if you plan any camping in cooler temperatures you will regret the decision to not insulate the floor, or the ceiling.

If those ideas are in your plans, take the time and raise the roof a few inches. It's not beyond the capabilities of any half-decent handyman.
__________________
Steve Bracken

Build Thread
Twigg is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-15-2018, 11:56 AM   #5
Mini-Skoolie
 
Join Date: Jan 2018
Location: Grants Pass, Oregon
Posts: 41
Year: 1991
Coachwork: Bluebird
Chassis: TC/2000
Engine: 5.9l Cummins
Rated Cap: 72 - 27800
Quote:
Originally Posted by Twigg View Post
A reasonable point.

It's going to depend on how you plan on using the bus. SHort camping trips in moderate weather, just bung down 1/2" ply and a laminate on top.

However, if you plan any camping in cooler temperatures you will regret the decision to not insulate the floor, or the ceiling.

If those ideas are in your plans, take the time and raise the roof a few inches. It's not beyond the capabilities of any half-decent handyman.
I'd love to do all of that, maybe on the next bus or a later chapter but I kinda need to knock this one out.

I was just kinda thinking T1-11 might be nicer than regular ply.
Enrico Carini is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-15-2018, 12:43 PM   #6
Bus Geek
 
Join Date: Sep 2017
Location: Owasso, OK
Posts: 2,627
Year: 1999
Coachwork: Thomas
Chassis: Saf-T-Liner MVP ER
Engine: Cummins 6CTA8.3 Mechanical MD3060
Rated Cap: 46 Coach Seats, 40 foot
Quote:
Originally Posted by Enrico Carini View Post
I'd love to do all of that, maybe on the next bus or a later chapter but I kinda need to knock this one out.

I was just kinda thinking T1-11 might be nicer than regular ply.
No one leaves a regular ply finish on the floor.

Get the cheap stuff, put a thin laminate on top.
__________________
Steve Bracken

Build Thread
Twigg is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-15-2018, 01:19 PM   #7
Mini-Skoolie
 
Join Date: Jan 2018
Location: Grants Pass, Oregon
Posts: 41
Year: 1991
Coachwork: Bluebird
Chassis: TC/2000
Engine: 5.9l Cummins
Rated Cap: 72 - 27800
For sure, not even I would cheap out that hard. Iím thinking for sub flooring T1-11 has awesome resistance to moisture since itís siding and all. Proper flooring will go on top of whatever I use as sub floor
Enrico Carini is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-15-2018, 01:23 PM   #8
Bus Geek
 
Join Date: Sep 2017
Location: Owasso, OK
Posts: 2,627
Year: 1999
Coachwork: Thomas
Chassis: Saf-T-Liner MVP ER
Engine: Cummins 6CTA8.3 Mechanical MD3060
Rated Cap: 46 Coach Seats, 40 foot
Quote:
Originally Posted by Enrico Carini View Post
For sure, not even I would cheap out that hard. Iím thinking for sub flooring T1-11 has awesome resistance to moisture since itís siding and all. Proper flooring will go on top of whatever I use as sub floor
If the floor is sealed it is an awesome vapor barrier. The occasional spill won't do it any harm. My floor is 18 years old and has had kids in and out. But there is no rust and no holes. The OEM plywood is in perfect condition.
__________________
Steve Bracken

Build Thread
Twigg is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-15-2018, 03:01 PM   #9
Bus Geek
 
o1marc's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2017
Location: Dawsonville, Ga.
Posts: 9,030
Year: 1999
Coachwork: Genesis
Chassis: International
Engine: DT466/3060
Rated Cap: 77
I was surprised when talking to the woman in the flooring department about wood flooring for my bus. She immediately blurted out that that would void the warranty, that none of the wood flooring was intended for temp changes that we experience in a bus, that it was only warranteed for like 50-90į
o1marc is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-15-2018, 03:03 PM   #10
Bus Geek
 
Join Date: Sep 2017
Location: Owasso, OK
Posts: 2,627
Year: 1999
Coachwork: Thomas
Chassis: Saf-T-Liner MVP ER
Engine: Cummins 6CTA8.3 Mechanical MD3060
Rated Cap: 46 Coach Seats, 40 foot
Quote:
Originally Posted by o1marc View Post
I was surprised when talking to the woman in the flooring department about wood flooring for my bus. She immediately blurted out that that would void the warranty, that none of the wood flooring was intended for temp changes that we experience in a bus, that it was only warranteed for like 50-90į
Just avoid the stuff made from MDF or particle-board, leave a gap and it will be fine.
__________________
Steve Bracken

Build Thread
Twigg is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-15-2018, 03:23 PM   #11
Bus Geek
 
o1marc's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2017
Location: Dawsonville, Ga.
Posts: 9,030
Year: 1999
Coachwork: Genesis
Chassis: International
Engine: DT466/3060
Rated Cap: 77
Quote:
Originally Posted by Twigg View Post
Just avoid the stuff made from MDF or particle-board, leave a gap and it will be fine.
I was seeking advice on boards or laminates that were not particle board and she said none were. then she started showing me the water proof laminates that started at $2/sf, more than I want to pay. Leave a gap where?
o1marc is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-15-2018, 03:29 PM   #12
Bus Geek
 
Join Date: Sep 2017
Location: Owasso, OK
Posts: 2,627
Year: 1999
Coachwork: Thomas
Chassis: Saf-T-Liner MVP ER
Engine: Cummins 6CTA8.3 Mechanical MD3060
Rated Cap: 46 Coach Seats, 40 foot
Quote:
Originally Posted by o1marc View Post
I was seeking advice on boards or laminates that were not particle board and she said none were. then she started showing me the water proof laminates that started at $2/sf, more than I want to pay. Leave a gap where?
Leave a gap around the edges.
__________________
Steve Bracken

Build Thread
Twigg is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-15-2018, 03:33 PM   #13
Bus Geek
 
o1marc's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2017
Location: Dawsonville, Ga.
Posts: 9,030
Year: 1999
Coachwork: Genesis
Chassis: International
Engine: DT466/3060
Rated Cap: 77
Quote:
Originally Posted by Twigg View Post
Leave a gap around the edges.
Of each board or around the perimeter? I plan on using a snap together design. It would be a floating floor until I install cabinets and secure them through the laminate and subfloor. I plan on leaving a perimeter gap for contraction and expansion.
o1marc is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-15-2018, 06:44 PM   #14
Bus Nut
 
Jolly Roger bus 223's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2017
Location: Swansboro,NC
Posts: 988
Year: 86
Coachwork: Thomas
Chassis: Ford B700
Engine: 8.2
Rated Cap: 60 bodies
I have done the snap together stuff in my entire house and didn't quite follow all the directions for expansion and contraction which is cut the boards a1/4" short at the wall and when you do trim to use a minimum of 1/8" from the top of board to the bottom of trim and I can tell you that as my house temps change so does the flooring where I was a little to tight.
Winter it's fine it's in my fall,spring, summer months where we leave our windows open that we see the bowing/buckling.
For in my bus I ended up salvaging some engineered bamboo and teak 1/2" thick glue together.
I used a 1/4" foam underlay and screwed 3/16"-1/4" birch ply on that throughout.
Built all walls framing and everything on it. Used solid sheet rubber flooring for all the wet area's including turned up edges to contain the wet spot
And only did the finished floor in the visual finished floor area and some salvaged 1/4 round oak trim (for me) to complement the bamboo and teak. Most of my dash is salvaged Brazilian cherry stair tread and teak flooring. If you don't mind mixing it up a little.
Don't go to the big flooring companies around because the want to sell there scraps for the same as a new floor.
Go to the smaller company that has **** under his feet and will give it to you so he isn't got to pay someone to get rid of it.
My actual floor is.
1/4" foam board
1/4" birch ply/luan
1/4" recycled carpet/foam mess that is going to compress over time
And a 1/2" finished floor board.
That's a 1-1/4" floor raise with insulation in it.
If I ever win the lotto?
Then my spray foam after many of hours of work will be applied from underside.
But that requires all storage binsframing tank frames and all wiring you ever need/want to see again either moved or secured so you won't ever have to see it again.
I have it in my head but I will never win the lotto so it's back to work to pay the bills and extra curricular activities? (teenager ready to drive,teenager driving and ready for college, my old 77 truck that needs a tranny. WIFE) BUS
Jolly Roger bus 223 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-15-2018, 11:51 PM   #15
Mini-Skoolie
 
Join Date: Jan 2018
Location: Grants Pass, Oregon
Posts: 41
Year: 1991
Coachwork: Bluebird
Chassis: TC/2000
Engine: 5.9l Cummins
Rated Cap: 72 - 27800
This thread went completely off the rails

Simply wondering if anyone thought using T1-11 as subfloor was a good idea
Enrico Carini is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-16-2018, 12:01 AM   #16
Bus Geek
 
o1marc's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2017
Location: Dawsonville, Ga.
Posts: 9,030
Year: 1999
Coachwork: Genesis
Chassis: International
Engine: DT466/3060
Rated Cap: 77
Quote:
Originally Posted by Enrico Carini View Post
This thread went completely off the rails

Simply wondering if anyone thought using T1-11 as subfloor was a good idea
Usually when that happens and you haven't gotten the answer you want from such an informative forum common sense would say it's probably not a great idea or someone may have used it. T1-11 is siding with grooves in it, not intended as flooring. Doesn't sound like something I would consider.
HTH
o1marc is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-16-2018, 12:06 AM   #17
Bus Geek
 
Robin97396's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2016
Location: Willamina, Oregon
Posts: 6,409
Coachwork: 97 Bluebird TC1000 5.9
It's a good thought because of the weather resistance qualities. I'm assuming you're talking about using the T-111 for subflooring. It seems similar to using marine grade plywood.

On the other hand people don't get flooring containing wood fibre because of its tendency to have issues.
__________________
Robin
Nobody's Business
Robin97396 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-16-2018, 12:41 AM   #18
Mini-Skoolie
 
Join Date: Jan 2018
Location: Grants Pass, Oregon
Posts: 41
Year: 1991
Coachwork: Bluebird
Chassis: TC/2000
Engine: 5.9l Cummins
Rated Cap: 72 - 27800
Quote:
Originally Posted by o1marc View Post
Usually when that happens and you haven't gotten the answer you want from such an informative forum common sense would say it's probably not a great idea or someone may have used it.
That makes no sense

Quote:
Originally Posted by o1marc View Post
T1-11 is siding with grooves in it, not intended as flooring.
thanks. I might use it as sub flooring though... because of the aforementioned properties
Enrico Carini is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-16-2018, 08:35 AM   #19
Bus Nut
 
Join Date: Jan 2018
Location: Upstate, SC
Posts: 275
I don't know if this will work for you but it's what I have done when headspace is limited. I use 1/2 foam board, preferably isopoly with 7/16 OSB. Then I tape the seems and glue down a vinyl roll flooring. Never use the self-adhesive squares or strips. Any heat above about 85*F and they will peel up and start sliding around. I made that mistake once because I was trying to go cheap.
ben2go is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


» Featured Campgrounds

Reviews provided by

Powered by vBadvanced CMPS v3.2.3

All times are GMT -5. The time now is 05:06 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.8 Beta 4
Copyright ©2000 - 2020, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.
×