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Old 03-05-2021, 09:03 PM   #81
Bus Nut
 
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Join Date: Dec 2013
Location: SoCal
Posts: 281
Year: 1989
Coachwork: Crown Coach
Chassis: 40ft 3-axle 10spd O/D, Factory A/C
Engine: 300hp Cummins 855
Rated Cap: 91
Quote:
Originally Posted by flattracker View Post
Thanks for the input. One really has to start with a Cummins already from a Crown, since the oil pan, oil pump, oil pump pickup,compressor, and bell housing are special to a Crown. The rest of the engine is the same as what came in OTR trucks. The replacement engine in my "new Crown" came out of a Peterbuilt. When researching the issue of re-powering mine after the main bearing failure, the Cummins parts book listed only one engine block, but two oil pans, one being the type used in Crowns. I know that later they replaced the cast oil pan with a stamped steel one so technically there are three different oil pans used in the Cummins. The other issue may be in the differential, since with 4.10 gearing one runs out of RPMs at 63 mph. (at least for a Cummins)

For Detroits too. 63mph is what you get at about 2250 rpm with 4.10. Period.

That's why I recommend a rear-end ratio change or an overdrive transmission.

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Old 05-07-2021, 12:47 AM   #82
Skoolie
 
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Join Date: Sep 2019
Location: Bly Oregon
Posts: 220
Year: 1986
Coachwork: Crown
Chassis: Supercoach
Engine: Cummins 350 big cam
Rated Cap: 86 passengers?
My brother and I are back to work on the Crown. We started on Monday with fabrication of a metal template for the vertical components of the walls for the kitchen and bathroom. This allows us to cut a profile to match the extrusion above the windows and curvature of part of the ceiling. I made a cardboard version last year but detirmined it was not robust enough to use repeatedly. (Pictures will follow) WE removed some of the curved floor transition to the walls as it is in the way. I found a copious amount of sand in the space between the floor and the wall behind the curved metal. I had been suspecting the bus has been underwater at some point in its life. This add to that suspicion. Given it last school district ownership was Kings City Ca. and there have been several floods there in the time frame the bus was theirs I think it is probable it was in a flood. We also cut some Unistrut to length for the vertical parts of the kitchen and bathroom walls closest to the sides of the bus. we plan to get both the kitchen an bathroom walls framed up in the next few days.
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Old 05-07-2021, 06:53 AM   #83
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Nice cut, are you going to use similar unistrut for the actual posts?

Johan
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Old 05-07-2021, 12:22 PM   #84
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Join Date: Aug 2018
Location: Rhode Island
Posts: 242
Year: 1980
Coachwork: Crown Coach
Chassis: Supercoach
Engine: Detroit 671T
Quote:
Originally Posted by Tejon7 View Post
Anyway, I now have a set of the single-bulb style flasher housings in my garage if you want them.
Attachment 52076
Tejon, if you still have those flashers, I am interested in them. I will send you a PM. Won't be the first, or the last Crown parts I've paid to ship across the country.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Crown_Guy View Post
For Detroits too. 63mph is what you get at about 2250 rpm with 4.10. Period.

That's why I recommend a rear-end ratio change or an overdrive transmission.
I have been meaning to talk to you about this, I am thinking of doing both. RTO910 Roadranger and a rear gear swap. Plan to pick your brain about it so look out for an email from me in the near future.
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Old 05-07-2021, 12:35 PM   #85
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I've also got an RTO 10-speed that I'm going to put in our green Crown, to replace the five-speed RT. I'll try to document that when I do it.
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Old 05-07-2021, 02:46 PM   #86
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Location: Missoula, MT
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Year: 1990
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Chassis: Supercoach
Engine: Detroit 6-71TA, Roadranger 10 sp.
Rated Cap: 90 gum-chewing demons
Quote:
Originally Posted by Willie_McCoy View Post
Tejon, if you still have those flashers, I am interested in them. I will send you a PM. Won't be the first, or the last Crown parts I've paid to ship across the country.



I have been meaning to talk to you about this, I am thinking of doing both. RTO910 Roadranger and a rear gear swap. Plan to pick your brain about it so look out for an email from me in the near future.
PM sent about the flashers

I was also going to eventually ask for details about the differential gear change. Do I smell a couple Crown upgrades threads in our future? Summoning the genie now... Crown... Crown... Crown!
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Old 05-07-2021, 03:37 PM   #87
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Quote:
Originally Posted by joeblack5 View Post
Nice cut, are you going to use similar unistrut for the actual posts?

Johan
All of the walls and support for the countertops in the kitchen are going to be framed with Unistrut. I know the picture shows a piece of "powerstrut" but it is identical to Unistrut. We will get the first piece of strut installed today. Got to make a dump run first.
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Old 05-07-2021, 08:13 PM   #88
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Join Date: Dec 2013
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Posts: 281
Year: 1989
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Chassis: 40ft 3-axle 10spd O/D, Factory A/C
Engine: 300hp Cummins 855
Rated Cap: 91
Quote:
Originally Posted by Tejon7 View Post
PM sent about the flashers

I was also going to eventually ask for details about the differential gear change. Do I smell a couple Crown upgrades threads in our future? Summoning the genie now... Crown... Crown... Crown!
You Called?

Most Crowns have 4.10 (maybe 4.11), never been real sure, not any difference anyway. These were good for the legal 55 mph school bus limit with a slight add up to about 63mph flat out on the governor at about 2300 rpm. The vast majority have this rear-end ratio, unless they were spec'd new with something different or have been modified after being built.

It's really a very simple upgrade and you can budget about $2k for the job parts and labor, maybe a little less or a little more. Any good heavy duty truck place that specializes in drive line repair and work can do it in a couple days. All they do is replace the ring and pinion matched gear set, or they can unbolt the entire carrier and simply bolt in a new one with the gear ratio you want already properly set up and ready to go. Easy Peasy.

I did a Crown from a 4.10 to a 3.70 with an Allison MT647 in it and it went from a screaming on the governor 63mph turd to an extremely nice handling highway Crown capable of a top speed on the governor of just touching 80mph. It cruised comfortably at 75 at about 2200 which is where you want to keep a Detroit, just off the top end governed speed, 1900 to 2100 is the sweet spot and with that rear end it was very nice from 65mph to 75+ without having to keep your foot buried in it and on the governor. Extremely comfortable, a highway Crown that takes your breath away. And it still had plenty of power and speed up hills. A good balance.

It was a 6-71T so that was a plus and it didn't lose power at altitude. A naturally aspirated one will do OK, I'm sure, but there may be a little struggle to keep it at high road speed with gradual grades. Just not all that much raw torque to start with and the higher rear-end ratio will be felt in some circumstances. But definitely will be an overall improvement. It will lose power and blow black smoke, (running too rich), as you gain altitude, but that's what they all do, the turbo fixes that. I got sold on only getting a turbo for my own when I drove that Crown to Boulder. Awesome experience. Fantastic highway Crown and worthy of going anywhere in style and comfort.

New parts are readily available and any good shop can help you with the correct way to get this done, very straightforward for them.

Messing with the transmission to replace, or convert, it into an Overdrive is always an option, assuming it's a stick already, but that's a bit more work (labor) and expense. The differential gearing is a relatively simple and fast upgrade compared to the transmission work, but that still isn't all that nasty, but the transmission does have to come out to convert or replace.

I hope this helps.
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Old 05-08-2021, 12:50 AM   #89
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Chassis: Supercoach
Engine: Cummins 350 big cam
Rated Cap: 86 passengers?
My experience with changing the gear ratio in my tandem Crown was a lot more than $2k. Of course with a tandem, you change two differentials instead of one. For my gear change both pumpkins were removed and replaced. Once disassembled the mechanic discovered that my Crown had two front differentials not a front and rear. When I test drove it last year I discovered I needed to keep an Eye on the speedometer as 70 mph came easy. On Oregon Hwy 140 (a two lane road around here) if law enforcement sees you going 70, they will put down their lunch to get you (55 mph speed limit) 65 mph probably look up but not put down their lunch. Anyway, I liked the results, especially with the Big Cam I 400 upgraded to a III now 400+ hp.
Maybe the Crown_guy would know why Crown would have put two fronts in the tandem. A front/rear setup would require a different length rear drive shaft. Crown Crown Crown?
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Old 05-09-2021, 02:16 AM   #90
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Quote:
Originally Posted by flattracker View Post
My experience with changing the gear ratio in my tandem Crown was a lot more than $2k. Of course with a tandem, you change two differentials instead of one. For my gear change both pumpkins were removed and replaced. Once disassembled the mechanic discovered that my Crown had two front differentials not a front and rear. When I test drove it last year I discovered I needed to keep an Eye on the speedometer as 70 mph came easy. On Oregon Hwy 140 (a two lane road around here) if law enforcement sees you going 70, they will put down their lunch to get you (55 mph speed limit) 65 mph probably look up but not put down their lunch. Anyway, I liked the results, especially with the Big Cam I 400 upgraded to a III now 400+ hp.
Maybe the Crown_guy would know why Crown would have put two fronts in the tandem. A front/rear setup would require a different length rear drive shaft. Crown Crown Crown?
Really don't know the answer to this. Crown used what they had on hand sometimes, and if two fronts were available and could be made to work..... well that's what they got. It may also be that Rockwell made no real distinction between the front and rears and offered a simpler solution model requiring less on hand inventory to get the job done. I just let the professional drive line shops handle the particulars and hand them the money.

I'm well aware that the change to my SQHD's will involve about $4500 big ones and have the quote in hand already. It's not a real burning issue with the OD ten speed but merely something I'm thinking of doing to lower the engine rpms at my normal highway cruising speeds. The engine really likes it at around 1500 1600 rpm rather than keeping it above 2000 to maintain my usual 72+ or more cruising speed.

I'm also thinking it might help fuel mileage since I can feel myself backing off the throttle and using the high torque rise nature of the engine at that 1500 or so sweet spot. As it is, with the 4.10's, I know it does over 85+ mph but the engine is turning at 2(3-4)00 and running smooth as silk, I'm just not sure it's being efficient about fuel usage. This engine will turn 2500 safely before the Cummins soft governor will kick in and that's a whole lot of road speed. But I don't see the need to twist it that fast or hard. All the torque is at the low end and that's where it pulls and seems to run best. I'm barely tickling the throttle as it accelerates with all that torque so it makes sense to use it and keep engine speed down and probably will save fuel due to fewer large cc's fuel injection power strokes per mile. Future upgrade when money is more available.
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Old 05-09-2021, 08:33 PM   #91
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Location: Missoula, MT
Posts: 182
Year: 1990
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Chassis: Supercoach
Engine: Detroit 6-71TA, Roadranger 10 sp.
Rated Cap: 90 gum-chewing demons
Thank you both for the input on diff gear changes. I was curious if it was a job that should be attempted by a weekend mechanic like myself, but it sounds like you guys with more experience are having driveline shops do the change. That means I should probably take mine to the professionals as well.

Sorry FT to derail your build thread. Now back to your regularly scheduled program....

I'm excited to see your progress and can't wait to see that strut channel framing assembled.
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Old 06-02-2021, 01:49 AM   #92
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Year: 1986
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Chassis: Supercoach
Engine: Cummins 350 big cam
Rated Cap: 86 passengers?
Update on my 86 Crown conversion:
As I stated before, I planned on using Unistrut to frame all the walls, counters, etc, and my brother Pat and I have done that. As shown in post #82, the strut (unistrut, powerstrut, all the same) was cut as shown in the picture. There are three versions of the studs made from the strut. All three are made to mount to the extrusion carrying the speakers and original inside lighting at the top, and mount to the floor or to the wheel wells. There are 10 made so far and all installed.


The first picture shows a couple of them mounted. Per my brother's idea, we built one side of the inside walls at a time.


We started at the front of the kitchen to frame around the refrigerator. My design actually supports the fridge slightly off the floor, and will clamp it securely in place at the top. The second picture shows a detail of how the studs mount to the extrusion.


The third picture show a detail of a stud mounting to the floor. Of note: Crown bus floors are thick, so lag bolts with a pilot hole work.


We installed studs for the front wall of the kitchen, and the wall between the kitchen and bathroom, and some horizontal strut to support the back of the countertop on the sink counter. the studs that frame the fridge were also installed. Some of this can be seen in the fourth picture. On the bathroom side of the wall separating from the kitchen is the bathroom sink/counter. Placement close together minimizes plumbing. The toilet and bathroom sink are being built into a water closet. I carefully sized the "water closet" so that anyone using the toilet will fit comfortably, and be able to sit down or standup comfortably without hitting the counter. The 42 gallon fresh water tank will be placed under the kitchen sink and just fits lengthwise under the counter on the sink side of the kitchen. The layout of the kitchen is based on two principles, one, I don't hinder opening the engine hatch cover, and all parts of the kitchen are close enough that any part of the kitchen is easily reached without walking around much. (The wife has a really bad knee) The size of the kitchen is full width of the bus, and about 5 feet front to back.


The bathroom is also full width of the bus and a little longer than the kitchen. The bathroom covers the area from the back end of the kitchen to the front of the forward rear wheel wells (its a tandem). This can be seen in the next picture.


Note the electrical panel on the floor. I built up[ a temporary panel with two outlets, each using one side of the 240 VAC output of the generator. These outlets power up any tools we are using. The area over the first wheel well on the right side of the bus serves multiple purposes, one will house the RV washing machine, two the electrical panel and RV charger, and DC circuit breakers, generator/power controls and monitors, and third the on-demand water heater. There will be some extra space for storage of things like detergent and other cleaning materials.


A portion of the space above the second wheel well on the right side will have a small furnace (16K btu) for heating the bedroom, and bathroom. The rest of space over the second wheel well will be storage/closet.



We framed in the kitchen on the left side of the bus next, staring with the shower stall, which uses a standard 32" x 32" shower pan. the plywood walls will be covered with FRP glued into place. For creating the curved shape of all walls that go left right in the bus, I have a full size template from when I did the conversion of the first Crown.


My brother suggested that I should use off the shelf cabinets under the counter where the range is. I agreed with him, and after anothe expensive trip to Diamond home improvement (a local store in K falls) I bought a 9" cabinet and a 30" cabinet. These are standard sized kitchen cabinets, and low and behold do not fit through the door of a Crown. We thought they would but the 30" cabinet was too wide. There are ten bolts bolting the hinge of the Crown door to the body of the bus, PLUS strong caulking. We did get the door off after some work though. See the picture, bus no door. Now the cabinets fit through OK.
The cabinets and Unistrut on one end will support the countertop. In placement of the cabinets I realized we had an access problem through the floor whes the 9" cabinet goes.



The solution: Remove 1/8th inch from the bottom of the cabinet, mount two 1" wide strips of steel to the floor from the wall side of the plate to the wall. The cabinet can be unscrewed from the strut holding it in place, and the cabinet slid out. This plate on the floor (not the only one either) provides access to replace a short (8" ?) length of coolant hose under the floor. That is the ONLY way to get to that hose by the way.


We cut the largest piece of countertop material (6') to fit, carefully (expensive to replace), made of acacia wood. Got the range to fit. Also built support for the range and the end of the countertop out of strut. Did I say I am on my fourth roll of .030 mig wire, just from welding the strut in the bus.


We have also started installing the gas plumbing in the bus. With moving the small furnace from the left side to the right side, it simplified the gas plumbing. We also have been installing the conduit that supports the outside power wiring to the electrical panel, and the generator control wiring.


One of the Crown's original vents is in the perfect place to vent the bathroom. The range hood will need a vent placed through the roof of the bus, as well as the water heater.


I forgot to mention the large furnace installation. the large furnace sits right under the range/oven. It mounted to the floor, with the intake and exhaust pipes going through the wall of the Crown. The installation instructions stated no clearance needed from the back to a wall. See the last picture.
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Old 06-02-2021, 01:52 AM   #93
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Join Date: Sep 2019
Location: Bly Oregon
Posts: 220
Year: 1986
Coachwork: Crown
Chassis: Supercoach
Engine: Cummins 350 big cam
Rated Cap: 86 passengers?
It looks like the site did not put all of the pictures I sent into the post. I will re-try them later.
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Old 06-02-2021, 01:54 PM   #94
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Location: Bly Oregon
Posts: 220
Year: 1986
Coachwork: Crown
Chassis: Supercoach
Engine: Cummins 350 big cam
Rated Cap: 86 passengers?
Some pictures of the furnace installation:
The furnace is a Suburban SF-42, rated for 40,000 btu. It is basically the same as the 35,00 btu furnace I used in the "old Crown". I mounted it to the floor below the gas range/oven. This one came with a metal tube/flange for the intake tube (plastic) and exhaust, made to mount to the outside wall. It is secured to the floor. No clearance
is required at the rear of the furnace.


The first picture shows the furnace mounted to the floor.



The second picture is of the intake/exhaust ports outside the bus.


The Third picture shows an air space between to outside skin of the Crown and the inner steel support at the bottom of the wall. The steel support is used to mount the seats to and attach the curved portion of the rubber floor covering to.


The fourth picture shows the gas range supports installed over the furnace.
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Old 06-02-2021, 09:19 PM   #95
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Location: Bly Oregon
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Year: 1986
Coachwork: Crown
Chassis: Supercoach
Engine: Cummins 350 big cam
Rated Cap: 86 passengers?
Some more pictures and details:


One of the features in the "old Crown" was conduit passing from one side to the other for electrical wiring. In the new Crown I am doing something similar. We installed strut across from one side to the other at the front room/kitchen wall, the kitchen bathroom wall, and at the rear of the bathroom. The first two will provide the means to pass electrical wiring from one side of the bus to the other. Where the strut is welded to the studs, one inch holes were drilled. The one at the rear of the bathroom will be carrying the PEX tubing across for the shower. When the last portions of the strut are installed there will be at least two more cross pieces. Since I am running the wiring through conduit this provides the simplest way to do it. I took today off since it was real hot outside.


In the picture inside the bus the cross pieces are clearly visible.


In the last picture one can see where I placed the main electrical panel and the RV charging system. The generator controls and system monitors will be placed to the left of the panel/charger. The washing machine will be placed below the electrical panels/ controls/monitors.
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Old 06-20-2021, 03:34 AM   #96
Skoolie
 
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Location: Bly Oregon
Posts: 220
Year: 1986
Coachwork: Crown
Chassis: Supercoach
Engine: Cummins 350 big cam
Rated Cap: 86 passengers?
The conversion of my 86 Crown Supercoach

Time to make another post about my Crown. Lately I have been doing some re-work. After I got some of the electrical installed, as well as the main electrical panel and the RV charger partially installed, I decided I didn't like the way It was going. I also determined some re-work was in order for the future install of a washing machine. Discussions with my brother about the placement of the smaller furnace for the bedroom, resulted in a design change for that. Kind of reminds me of when I worked in aerospace. Changes were a part of life. My measurements and placement of some of the strut weren't right so some of it was de-installed (cut back out) and the mount for a washing machine was installed. I removed the on-demand water heater, the main electrical panel and the RV charger. I removed the mounts for the electrical panel and charger. I was able to re-use the electrical panel mount and mount it several inches higher and farther forward. This addressed and solved a wiring dilemma. Somehow I managed to have insufficient length of the 6 gauge wire used for the connection to outside power. It was a solvable problem and I picked what I think was the better solution. Moving the electrical panel forward resulted in enough length of the 6 gauge wire. Placing the RV charger aft of the electrical panel solved a mounting problem. I removed all the generator control/monitor wiring from its conduit, and re-worked some of the lengths and re-installed it. It turned out to have not as much length as I planned, but that is solved by installation of a Molex connector just like the one at the generator end. I also did re-work of the conduit lengths for the 6 gauge external power wiring. This evened things out and made sufficient room between the strut and the wall of the bus (vertically) so that all of the conduit coming through the floor would ultimately route accordingly and have room. I have some additional conduit mounts to install using the strut. If I was a professional electrician it would look a little better, but I belive it will be solid.



In the one picture one can see how I routed the electrical conduit and gas plumbing through the floor and across the wall, ultimately to the electrical panel (for gas to the rear furnace, and the water heater. To make everything work in the space, I picked up a 3/4" conduit bender and bent the conduit to fit.



The order, from left to right in the picture is:

1) Generator power - 240 VAC 4 wire 30 Amps per leg.
2) Generator Controls/monitors 7 wires?
3) Outside power 240 VAC 4 wire, 50 Amps.
4) Gas pipes - Propane.



One aside: Is it just Klamath County or is everyone having trouble getting parts? I know that prices are going up A LOT, but most of the stores that carry the kind of parts I need seem to have empty spots on the shelves for the stuff I need.

I went the the electrical distributor where I got my strut and found what I needed, but it was a challenge.


The second picture shows my bent conduit that allowed the two different runs to clear each other. The upper one is for generator power.
A third run will be added later for inverter power.


Above the electrical panel and RV charger will be rack mount panels. A 3u panel will provide generator controls and monitors, monitors for voltage/current on bith legs of the 240 VAC power, and battery monitors. A 1u panel will contain the 12 VDC circuit breakers for each of the 12 VDC RV circuits. The Crown bus electrics will remain separate from the RV electrics.



The third picture shows the re-mounted electrical panel. The RV charger will be mounted aft (to the right in picture) of the main panel.


One of the reasons I am using strut to construct everything shows now. I can mount a lot of the infrastructure to it. Plumbing electrical, etc.


Also moving the rear furnace has simplified the gas plumbing. Each side of the bus will support two appliances, left side, main furnace, gas range/oven, right side water heater, small furnace.


I need to add some more strut verticals and horizontals, including one more (at least) across side to side for electrical.
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Old 07-27-2021, 02:03 PM   #97
Skoolie
 
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Join Date: Sep 2019
Location: Bly Oregon
Posts: 220
Year: 1986
Coachwork: Crown
Chassis: Supercoach
Engine: Cummins 350 big cam
Rated Cap: 86 passengers?
I have had some setbacks in the conversion process lately. We have been getting some really hot weather lately with temps over 100 degrees, making work on the Crown difficult. Some days I would start late in the day and get some work done.


Then came the fire. The Bootleg fire got within about 4 miles of the bus, and is still burning. I started back into work last week anyway. Being outside gets you a sore throat as some days outside is like standing on the wrong side of a campfire only you can't get away from it.



I decided that this was a good time to correct a couple problems with the generator fuel tank. I ended up with a leak when filling the generator tank when it got full, leaking out of the fuel gauge sender opening and when filling the tank a while ago the end of the filler nozzle got caught in the filler and it pulled off (jerry can donkey D**k) and ended up in the tank.


It wasn't too awful getting it out since I engineered it to be removable. It was a PITA to re-install the sender unit as the screws were too short with the new rubber washer installed. Add the liberal amount of ultra gray silicon goop and it was even more of a pain. Temporary use of longer smaller screws and nut plates allowed for overnight curing in place. I went to the can of nuts and bolts and found two identical bolts that fit (metric). Also got the end of the filler neck out.



Yesterday I finished re-installing the tank. I decided that the end of the filler receptacle should be extended out about 4 inches to make it easier to fill with a gas can so today I will get more of the expensive hose for gas filler and tomorrow that gets done.


We got some rain last night, in July! That is definitely good.


Today is off to town, 60 miles away, for errands.


Once the inlet receptacle is remounted/extended I will fill up the tank.


ALSO:
Last week I started up the bus as I do to keep the juices flowing so to speak, I noticed a puddle of oil under the air dryer, not a couple of drops but a puddle of fresh oil. Some troubleshooting done I concluded the compressor has problems. It is going to cost about $1K to fix this (5 bucks for the part 5 bucks for labor). The compressor used on Crowns is a special one as the engine and compressor lay on their side.
Today I find out if I need to send in the original for rebuild or will it be a core. While I was under the bus looking at things I discovered the source of an engine oil leak coming out of the flanged fitting on the side of the oil pan. I also discovered that when the mechanic did the engine replacement he routed the transmission cooler hose such that it rests on one of the fan belts. Not good. It will have to come off and be re-routed and possibly the fitting at the transmission cooler tightened to change the angle that the hose fitting come off at. It was put in wrong when I got the bus, but a good mechanic doesn't put thing back wrong (certainly when it is obvious). I have only driven the bus about 200 miles since the re-power so the hose did not get ruined yet.


I got a feeling I will be stuck for the re-work. I will make sure that everything is fixed right though. My bus should not leak.
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Old Yesterday, 04:18 AM   #98
Skoolie
 
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Join Date: Sep 2019
Location: Bly Oregon
Posts: 220
Year: 1986
Coachwork: Crown
Chassis: Supercoach
Engine: Cummins 350 big cam
Rated Cap: 86 passengers?
The conversion of my 86 Crown Supercoach

Its been a while since I posted anything about my conversion. Some of that time I was involved in other things and had medical issues. I am back to work. MY last two times at the bus I could not get the generator to start. I troubleshot the problem and determined it isn't an engine failure, but an electrical failure. I went to the service manual and parts manual for the generator (an Onan 6.5DKD) and figured out that K14 is bad. Power to the fuel pump and fuel solenoid is supplied through K14 and during starting also the glow plugs. During glow plug warmup the glow plugs are supplied through K13 (same part no as K14) I found a Bosch relay p/n 0332204 101, rated for 30 amps in my collection that I think will work. Examination of the parts book gave me the exact location of K14 in the control box. Since there is not a lot of space in the generator compartment (old spare tire compartment) it will be a challenge. I will take pictures of the effort and post the work here.

Once I have power again I will fabricate the fresh water tank mounts and install it and all kitchen plumbing. I also need to harvest some cabinets I bought from a wrecked motor home and design the installation of those in the bus.



Notes: In the schematics of the Onan 6.5DKD generator they show the terminal numbers for each connection to the relays. Those numbers and what they connect to match the relay I will try. What I found is that the 6.5DKD generator isn't complex once one studies the manual (which has a troubleshooting table for my problem). I came up with a theory as to what failed and found the table and my theory matched. (I should have went to the table first)
I will likely get rained out tomorrow, but I am glad for any rain here. Maybe it will help put out the Cougar peak fire about 25 miles from here.


We already went through having the Bootleg fire nearby (5.9 miles away) and have had enough of that.


One more thing: I will replace the Onan's main breakers (currently one 30 amp and one 20 amp?) with a dual 30 amp breaker, an Airpax IDLHK11-32842-30.

I will have to rework the small panel it mounts to. Onan supplied this generator with two 120 VAC output circuits. They were not in parallel but both connected to same neutral. The lower output leg was for an air conditioner and the other for the rest of the motor home. I re-configured the generator to provide 240 VAC (two legs of 120 VAC). The generator is designed to supply two legs of 120 VAC at 30 amps so now it will.
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