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Old 09-24-2019, 06:39 PM   #21
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man some of these posts are really hard to understand on this thread. People are now slapping at the keyboard like its a text message and i'm over here like where's the complete thought?

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Old 09-24-2019, 06:47 PM   #22
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man some of these posts are really hard to understand on this thread. People are now slapping at the keyboard like its a text message and i'm over here like where's the complete thought?
18ga. lol
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Old 09-24-2019, 07:35 PM   #23
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The lowest I would go is 16ga and that is already difficult to work with.
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Old 09-24-2019, 07:56 PM   #24
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If the span is around 2', 20 guage works just fine, that's what I used, doesn't oilcan or anything and is cheaper than 18g
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Old 09-24-2019, 08:27 PM   #25
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There was tubular steel framing the seats, but there was sheet metal on the backs under the Upholstery between the framing. The sheet metal was the size of the seat backs, ~ 3' x 2'. I recovered about 30 + pieces from my 77 pax Thomas.

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z
It's all bent though, isn't it - for stiffening? Or were your backs completely flat?
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Old 09-24-2019, 08:28 PM   #26
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The lowest I would go is 16ga and that is already difficult to work with.
FWIW my $30 Harbor Freight shears can easily cut at least down to 14ga (I haven't tried thicker).
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Old 09-24-2019, 09:23 PM   #27
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FWIW my $30 Harbor Freight shears can easily cut at least down to 14ga (I haven't tried thicker).
Skinning in 16 or 14 is just a waste and way more work than its worth. Takes way more to cut and drill that thick plate.
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Old 09-25-2019, 03:57 AM   #28
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FWIW my $30 Harbor Freight shears can easily cut at least down to 14ga (I haven't tried thicker).
Is that the one labled to handle 20 gauge? I saw it many times and thought it would be too light.
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Old 09-25-2019, 05:21 AM   #29
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Is that the one labled to handle 20 gauge? I saw it many times and thought it would be too light.
No, I think that's the swivel-headed one. The normal shears advertise 14ga and actually work fine for that thickness.
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Old 09-25-2019, 11:05 PM   #30
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No, I think that's the swivel-headed one. The normal shears advertise 14ga and actually work fine for that thickness.
Thank you.
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Old 09-30-2019, 09:22 AM   #31
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Find a end roll

I used a end roll of 18 Guage I got for couple hundred Canadian dollars.
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Old 10-02-2019, 01:25 PM   #32
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18 gauge galvanized, they were cut already had to remove only a couple of inches 3x10 ft. Would not go heavier, cut ok with the cheap HF electric shears. The red and green aviation sheers cut through them well.
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Old 10-02-2019, 01:26 PM   #33
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18 gauge galvanized, they were cut already had to remove only a couple of inches 3x10 ft. Would not go heavier, cut ok with the cheap HF electric shears. The red and green aviation sheers cut through them well.
Yeah imagine trying to work with anything thicker!
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Old 04-20-2021, 09:35 PM   #34
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I was reading this thread and noticed no one is using aluminum.
May I ask why?
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Old 04-20-2021, 10:19 PM   #35
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I was reading this thread and noticed no one is using aluminum.
May I ask why?
Galvanic corrosion (also called bimetallic corrosion or dissimilar metal corrosion) is an electrochemical process in which one metal corrodes preferentially when it is in electrical contact with another, in the presence of an electrolyte. A similar galvanic reaction is exploited in primary cells to generate a useful electrical voltage to power portable devices.
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Old 04-21-2021, 05:54 AM   #36
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I was reading this thread and noticed no one is using aluminum.
May I ask why?
Check out the cost of aluminum sheet. Probably cheaper to use hardened unicorn's tears.
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Old 04-21-2021, 09:52 AM   #37
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If you are thinking aluminum for something that doesn't rust or rot, there is fiberglass, it adheres to steel and diy its cheap.

Given the floor is going to be covered with foam and thick wood, I don't see the need for the steel at all.
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Old 02-17-2022, 03:26 PM   #38
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Have a question

Hey where did you get a price that good for steel sheets that were 18guage to 20 guage for that size? I am getting quotes for triple that so thought I may see where you got your quote from or by now you may have actually purchased it. My email is dealsforyou2015@yahoo.com please lmk thanks so much for your time!
Lindsey Wagner

QUOTE=Twigg;262454]What gauge of sheet steel are folk using to skin-over windows?

I was planning to use 18-gauge, but I noticed that dzlfreak used 20-gauge and he had more distance to span than I have.

I have quotes of $75 for a 8 x 4 sheet of 1008 at 18-gauge and am assuming the 20-gauge will be about $60, and a lot easier to cut and handle.[/QUOTE]
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Old 02-17-2022, 05:39 PM   #39
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Hey where did you get a price that good for steel sheets that were 18guage to 20 guage for that size? I am getting quotes for triple that so thought I may see where you got your quote from or by now you may have actually purchased it. My email is dealsforyou2015@yahoo.com please lmk thanks so much for your time!
Lindsey Wagner

QUOTE=Twigg;262454]What gauge of sheet steel are folk using to skin-over windows?

I was planning to use 18-gauge, but I noticed that dzlfreak used 20-gauge and he had more distance to span than I have.

I have quotes of $75 for a 8 x 4 sheet of 1008 at 18-gauge and am assuming the 20-gauge will be about $60, and a lot easier to cut and handle.
[/QUOTE]


The post with those prices is four years old. Someone resurected an ancient thread.
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Old 02-17-2022, 08:09 PM   #40
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I used FRP (fiberglass reinforced plastic) for blanking my windows. It's the stuff they build RV and semitrailer siding with. Bought a big old roll of the stuff, and have used it for many other things. I blanked windows individually.
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