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02-10-2018, 09:14 PM
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#21
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Bus Nut
Join Date: Dec 2017
Posts: 973
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Quote:
Originally Posted by o1marc
I'm sensing you're not looking forward to the labor involved in the whole floor (neither am I ). [emoji2] No, it wouldn't hurt to prep half now and half later, as long as the next thing you do is the later floor finish.
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I've not seen anyone using a sand blaster...I'd think rust converter then wet blast with blend of baking soda and black beauty...I must be missing something...
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02-10-2018, 09:14 PM
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#22
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Bus Geek
Join Date: Feb 2016
Location: Willamina, Oregon
Posts: 6,409
Coachwork: 97 Bluebird TC1000 5.9
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If you do that the second half will be better than the first half.
Am I the only one that goes to the car wash and puts the wand through the window to blast the floor clean inside at this stage. It works very well but really fogs up the windows.
__________________
Robin
Nobody's Business
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02-10-2018, 09:18 PM
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#23
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Bus Nut
Join Date: Dec 2017
Posts: 973
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Robin97396
If you do that the second half will be better than the first half.
Am I the only one that goes to the car wash and puts the wand through the window to blast the floor clean inside at this stage. It works very well but really fogs up the windows.
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Lol...that's a thought[emoji2][emoji2][emoji2]
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02-10-2018, 11:26 PM
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#24
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Bus Geek
Join Date: Dec 2017
Location: Dawsonville, Ga.
Posts: 10,482
Year: 1999
Coachwork: Genesis
Chassis: International
Engine: DT466/3060
Rated Cap: 77
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Robin97396
If you do that the second half will be better than the first half.
Am I the only one that goes to the car wash and puts the wand through the window to blast the floor clean inside at this stage. It works very well but really fogs up the windows.
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I have a pressure washer and didn't see why once we're down to the bare metal box to just pressure wash it followed by a phosphate bath, rinse and paint.
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02-12-2018, 03:50 PM
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#25
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Mini-Skoolie
Join Date: Dec 2017
Location: California
Posts: 16
Year: 1995
Coachwork: Girardin
Chassis: Ford E350
Engine: 7.3 Powerstroke
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Rubber plywood undercoating (looked like asphalt based) then shinny aluminum. No rust!
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02-14-2018, 11:16 PM
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#26
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Bus Nut
Join Date: May 2017
Location: Houston TX
Posts: 573
Year: 1998
Coachwork: Amtran
Chassis: International
Engine: dt466e
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Quote:
Originally Posted by brokedown
I scrubbed my floor with Simple Green, rinsed it off, and scrubbed it with Simple Green a second time. The water I rinsed away was filthy both times.
Not sure about doing half of the floor, is there any particular reason? It seems like "while you're in there" you might as well do the whole thing, right?
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Because i have stuff in there like tools, air compressor etc.
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02-21-2018, 02:34 PM
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#27
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Bus Nut
Join Date: May 2017
Location: Houston TX
Posts: 573
Year: 1998
Coachwork: Amtran
Chassis: International
Engine: dt466e
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Is it ok to paint over this? I applied at least 4 coats of rustoleum rust converter and this wont turn black? Its not as bad as it looks but kinda looks like wet rust
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02-21-2018, 04:00 PM
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#28
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Bus Geek
Join Date: Dec 2017
Location: Dawsonville, Ga.
Posts: 10,482
Year: 1999
Coachwork: Genesis
Chassis: International
Engine: DT466/3060
Rated Cap: 77
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Quote:
Originally Posted by adic27
Is it ok to paint over this? I applied at least 4 coats of rustoleum rust converter and this wont turn black? Its not as bad as it looks but kinda looks like wet rust
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I'd spend a bit more elbow grease with a wire wheel or wire brush to clean up more of the scale.
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02-21-2018, 04:10 PM
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#29
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Bus Nut
Join Date: May 2017
Location: Houston TX
Posts: 573
Year: 1998
Coachwork: Amtran
Chassis: International
Engine: dt466e
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Quote:
Originally Posted by o1marc
I'd spend a bit more elbow grease with a wire wheel or wire brush to clean up more of the scale.
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Yea that's what I did in a few spots. should I add more converter also?
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02-21-2018, 05:29 PM
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#30
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Bus Geek
Join Date: Dec 2017
Location: Dawsonville, Ga.
Posts: 10,482
Year: 1999
Coachwork: Genesis
Chassis: International
Engine: DT466/3060
Rated Cap: 77
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Quote:
Originally Posted by adic27
Yea that's what I did in a few spots. should I add more converter also?
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I would spend some more time mechanically removing the heavy rust before doing anymore treatment. Even banging that area with a hammer will break some of that away.
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02-21-2018, 11:13 PM
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#31
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Bus Nut
Join Date: May 2017
Location: Houston TX
Posts: 573
Year: 1998
Coachwork: Amtran
Chassis: International
Engine: dt466e
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But its not heavy, it just looks like it. Cant explaint it. Gonna deal with a little more when i get back to the bus. Anyone have any experience rustoleum rust converter? What dod you guys use?
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02-22-2018, 08:25 AM
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#32
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Skoolie
Join Date: Jan 2018
Posts: 111
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Quote:
Originally Posted by adic27
But its not heavy, it just looks like it. Cant explaint it. Gonna deal with a little more when i get back to the bus. Anyone have any experience rustoleum rust converter? What dod you guys use?
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Ospho is what I bought. Haven’t used it yet but from what I’ve read on the forum it works very well.
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02-23-2018, 07:59 PM
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#33
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Bus Nut
Join Date: May 2017
Location: Houston TX
Posts: 573
Year: 1998
Coachwork: Amtran
Chassis: International
Engine: dt466e
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Wire wheel is not dooing much more or is taking more effort than needed in my opinion. I used one of those soft grinding wheels to hit the spots that looked like they could use a little bit of touching up. Would any of you paint over whats in this pic? This is before the soft grinding wheel.. which kinda grinded to where the metal showed a little steel.
ThinkI should have went with another rust converter
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02-23-2018, 08:04 PM
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#34
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Bus Geek
Join Date: Dec 2016
Location: Weeki Wachee, FL
Posts: 3,056
Year: 1997
Coachwork: Bluebird
Chassis: TC2000 FE
Engine: Cummins 5.9
Rated Cap: 72
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Rust always looks worse in pictures!
Here is my floor right before and right after ospho. I gave it a very good sweep and two good scrubs with simple green before the before pic. 
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02-23-2018, 09:03 PM
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#35
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Bus Geek
Join Date: Dec 2017
Location: Dawsonville, Ga.
Posts: 10,482
Year: 1999
Coachwork: Genesis
Chassis: International
Engine: DT466/3060
Rated Cap: 77
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Now go over it wit a rust converter before final rust proof paint. Ospho/ PrepNEtch,etc.
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03-01-2018, 01:53 PM
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#36
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Bus Nut
Join Date: May 2017
Location: Houston TX
Posts: 573
Year: 1998
Coachwork: Amtran
Chassis: International
Engine: dt466e
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Can I pour leftover oil based paint back into the can with th unused?
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03-01-2018, 03:20 PM
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#37
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Bus Nut
Join Date: Nov 2017
Location: Wright City MO
Posts: 280
Year: 1998
Coachwork: Bluebird
Chassis: Bluebird
Engine: 5.9 Cummins/Allison
Rated Cap: 74
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yes as long as it has not skinned over or has had hardener added to it.
__________________
Its hard to be wrong when you live in Wright City!
There is no mechanical problem that cannot be overcome by a skillfully applied combination of brute force and ignorance!
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03-25-2018, 05:29 PM
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#38
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Bus Nut
Join Date: May 2017
Location: Houston TX
Posts: 573
Year: 1998
Coachwork: Amtran
Chassis: International
Engine: dt466e
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Did any of your guys' floor (the metal/steel under the plywood and or rubber) flex and pop whenever walked on in certain places? Mines is not evenly flat everywhere and has flex and pop sounds and i was just wondering if I'm the onlyone who experiences this
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03-25-2018, 06:39 PM
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#39
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Bus Geek
Join Date: Sep 2017
Location: Owasso, OK
Posts: 2,627
Year: 1999
Coachwork: Thomas
Chassis: Saf-T-Liner MVP ER
Engine: Cummins 6CTA8.3 Mechanical MD3060
Rated Cap: 46 Coach Seats, 40 foot
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Quote:
Originally Posted by adic27
Did any of your guys' floor (the metal/steel under the plywood and or rubber) flex and pop whenever walked on in certain places? Mines is not evenly flat everywhere and has flex and pop sounds and i was just wondering if I'm the onlyone who experiences this
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It's thin sheet steel. Some flex and "popping" would simply be normal. It won't do it when covered with insulation and plywood.
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03-28-2018, 01:22 PM
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#40
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Bus Nut
Join Date: May 2017
Location: Houston TX
Posts: 573
Year: 1998
Coachwork: Amtran
Chassis: International
Engine: dt466e
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Thanks, Twigg
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