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11-27-2017, 12:58 AM
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#1
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Bus Nut
Join Date: May 2017
Location: Houston TX
Posts: 573
Year: 1998
Coachwork: Amtran
Chassis: International
Engine: dt466e
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What was under the rubber flooring of your bus?
I thought mines was metal but parts of it seem bendable wen i step on it like its sheet metal or something. It has surface rust. Also looks like its been patched together with some kind of cement maybe? Instead of it being flat its slightly lumpy in some places like warped. Anyone else discover this or similar?
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11-27-2017, 09:50 AM
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#2
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Bus Geek
Join Date: May 2009
Location: Columbus Ohio
Posts: 20,057
Year: 1991
Coachwork: Carpenter
Chassis: International 3800
Engine: DTA360 / MT643
Rated Cap: 7 Row Handicap
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many busses have plywood or similar under their rubber floors..
-Christopher
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11-27-2017, 10:09 AM
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#3
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Bus Geek
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Houston, Texas
Posts: 8,462
Year: 1946
Coachwork: Chevrolet/Wayne
Chassis: 1- 1/2 ton
Engine: Cummins 4BT
Rated Cap: 15
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There seems to be a number of options regarding the floor. To date I recall seeing just on this forum...
1. Metal floor + ply + rubber puke mat
2. Metal floor + rubber mat
3. Ply only + rubber mat
You really need to know what is there and its' condition before starting any build out.
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11-27-2017, 11:37 AM
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#4
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Bus Nut
Join Date: May 2017
Location: Houston TX
Posts: 573
Year: 1998
Coachwork: Amtran
Chassis: International
Engine: dt466e
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Attached some pictures of what it looks like. I think it might just be rust building up in certain areas, where each piece of "sheet metal?" Joins.
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11-27-2017, 11:42 AM
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#5
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Skoolie
Join Date: Jan 2017
Location: IL
Posts: 205
Year: 2000
Coachwork: Never coached any teams, not even junior soccer
Chassis: I'm still figuring out what this means
Engine: CAT diesel
Rated Cap: No caps, only hats.
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Yup, looks like you've got some rust ... but not that bad! If you paint on some rust converter, it should clean up real nicely.
My floor was also soaked with diesel fuel. YOurs looks good
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11-27-2017, 11:55 AM
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#6
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Bus Nut
Join Date: May 2017
Location: Houston TX
Posts: 573
Year: 1998
Coachwork: Amtran
Chassis: International
Engine: dt466e
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Yea my floor is not bad at all, at least I don't think so. Also, got some rust converter already. Just been trying to get the heater out so i can get the rest of the rubber floor up and grind
Edit: I would grind before using rust converter right?
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11-27-2017, 12:05 PM
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#7
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Bus Geek
Join Date: Sep 2014
Location: Eustis FLORIDA
Posts: 23,830
Year: 1999
Coachwork: Thomas
Chassis: Freighliner FS65
Engine: Cat 3126
Rated Cap: 15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by adic27
Yea my floor is not bad at all, at least I don't think so. Also, got some rust converter already. Just been trying to get the heater out so i can get the rest of the rubber floor up and grind
Edit: I would grind before using rust converter right?
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I'd put a paint stripper or wire brush on a drill and hit the heavy rust before applying rust converter.
Looks like it had previous rust repair down the curb side of the floor.
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11-27-2017, 12:25 PM
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#8
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Bus Nut
Join Date: May 2017
Location: Houston TX
Posts: 573
Year: 1998
Coachwork: Amtran
Chassis: International
Engine: dt466e
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Yea i meant wire brush. Thanks guys!
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11-27-2017, 05:35 PM
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#9
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Skoolie
Join Date: Apr 2015
Posts: 205
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tango
There seems to be a number of options regarding the floor. To date I recall seeing just on this forum...
1. Metal floor + ply + rubber puke mat
2. Metal floor + rubber mat
3. Ply only + rubber mat
You really need to know what is there and its' condition before starting any build out.
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The Metal mentioned above could be further broken down to:
a. Steel
b. Aluminum
I agree with really digging in before you purchase the bus (VW, Porsche, MG) of your dreams.
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11-27-2017, 05:38 PM
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#10
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Bus Crazy
Join Date: Oct 2017
Location: Ashtabula, Ohio
Posts: 1,494
Year: 1996
Coachwork: Thomas
Chassis: International
Engine: T444E 7.3L
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Beautiful metal floor with minimal rust...........
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11-27-2017, 07:49 PM
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#11
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Bus Nut
Join Date: May 2017
Location: Houston TX
Posts: 573
Year: 1998
Coachwork: Amtran
Chassis: International
Engine: dt466e
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Johnny Mullet
Beautiful metal floor with minimal rust...........
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Is your metal kinda thin?
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11-27-2017, 08:10 PM
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#12
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Bus Crazy
Join Date: Oct 2017
Location: Ashtabula, Ohio
Posts: 1,494
Year: 1996
Coachwork: Thomas
Chassis: International
Engine: T444E 7.3L
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Quote:
Originally Posted by adic27
Is your metal kinda thin?
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Seems thick enough for me. Not sure what gauge it is.
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11-27-2017, 10:36 PM
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#13
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Bus Geek
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Houston, Texas
Posts: 8,462
Year: 1946
Coachwork: Chevrolet/Wayne
Chassis: 1- 1/2 ton
Engine: Cummins 4BT
Rated Cap: 15
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Nothing but light surface rust on mine. And it was 71+ years old in this pic!
(They don't make'em like they used to)
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02-09-2018, 07:22 PM
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#14
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Bus Nut
Join Date: May 2017
Location: Houston TX
Posts: 573
Year: 1998
Coachwork: Amtran
Chassis: International
Engine: dt466e
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It seems like a sanding grinding disc works better, or faster, but doesn't last long. How much rust should I grind away? The disc get to bare minimal.. i can see shiny metal in some spots. But, at the same time some spots are ruff and look bubble like. Please view images and advise. Dont wanna grind more than i have to.
Thanks!
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02-09-2018, 07:30 PM
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#15
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Bus Geek
Join Date: Dec 2016
Location: Weeki Wachee, FL
Posts: 3,056
Year: 1997
Coachwork: Bluebird
Chassis: TC2000 FE
Engine: Cummins 5.9
Rated Cap: 72
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Just remember, rust convert can't convert rust you've removed.
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02-09-2018, 07:31 PM
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#16
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Bus Geek
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Houston, Texas
Posts: 8,462
Year: 1946
Coachwork: Chevrolet/Wayne
Chassis: 1- 1/2 ton
Engine: Cummins 4BT
Rated Cap: 15
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You don't need to "grind" if you are going to apply a rust converter. Just knock off/down any loose/heavy stuff and apply it. A "Stripping Pad" on a grinder works very well and is not aggressive on the steel.
BTW (I just mentioned this in another thread)...most rust converters require a minimum 24 hour cure before painting over. Otherwise, it can actually accelerate oxidation. Read the instructions.
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02-10-2018, 06:33 PM
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#17
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Bus Nut
Join Date: May 2017
Location: Houston TX
Posts: 573
Year: 1998
Coachwork: Amtran
Chassis: International
Engine: dt466e
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Would it be a bad idea to do half the floor now and do the other half later? I plan on adding a couple of coats of rustoleum oil based paint after, also half the floor and the other half later
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02-10-2018, 06:53 PM
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#18
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Bus Nut
Join Date: May 2017
Location: Houston TX
Posts: 573
Year: 1998
Coachwork: Amtran
Chassis: International
Engine: dt466e
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Also when cleaning before applying the rust converter should i use degreaser or just like a simple mop and bucket wit some soapy water?
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02-10-2018, 07:02 PM
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#19
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Bus Geek
Join Date: Dec 2016
Location: Weeki Wachee, FL
Posts: 3,056
Year: 1997
Coachwork: Bluebird
Chassis: TC2000 FE
Engine: Cummins 5.9
Rated Cap: 72
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I scrubbed my floor with Simple Green, rinsed it off, and scrubbed it with Simple Green a second time. The water I rinsed away was filthy both times.
Not sure about doing half of the floor, is there any particular reason? It seems like "while you're in there" you might as well do the whole thing, right?
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02-10-2018, 07:57 PM
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#20
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Bus Geek
Join Date: Dec 2017
Location: Dawsonville, Ga.
Posts: 10,482
Year: 1999
Coachwork: Genesis
Chassis: International
Engine: DT466/3060
Rated Cap: 77
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Quote:
Originally Posted by adic27
Would it be a bad idea to do half the floor now and do the other half later? I plan on adding a couple of coats of rustoleum oil based paint after, also half the floor and the other half later
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I'm sensing you're not looking forward to the labor involved in the whole floor (neither am I ).  No, it wouldn't hurt to prep half now and half later, as long as the next thing you do is the later floor finish.
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