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Old 07-21-2019, 07:57 PM   #41
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Originally Posted by HazMatt View Post
Thanx for the rollers tip.
I suspect my Wagner Airless won't be up to this task!
Definitely not.

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Old 07-21-2019, 09:44 PM   #42
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Wow, really?! You think so?
In that case, I have some well-drained real estate in S FL I can make you a deal on...
"Do I have an opinion"?
Was there some funky crap in Pandora's box?!!
(You cracked the lid. Sorry 'bout your luck)
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Originally Posted by DaCaNoWiSe View Post
Do you have an opinion on WHEN to paint? Before building the interior (it is down to its shell) but after we build the undercarriage boxes, etc. Or should we save it til the very end?

I've been following this site for years and you post quite often and seem very knowledgeable so can you drop some of that here?
Wa'al, flattery will get you everywhere! Just be careful what you wish for.
You may get it...
THB nailed this question way the hail back in post #3. At least the climactic aspect.
Feel free to take my advice or not. Either way, it ain't like I'm using it. My bus was an impulse buy: coulda done better with more time and research, but I reckon at least I didn't roll Snake Eyes on my crap shoot.
I wanted to get outta Dodge, and being my own, "Kwik-Exit Moving Company" was the way to roll.
That said, I haven't followed the flock in my build. Being in residence, in a construction zone, creates some unique challenges.
Howeva:
On my next build, what treatment the interior requires comes first. I lucked out big time on my gamble: the fellow I bought from had already yanked the seats & ceiling panels (woulda been able to use some of that sheet metal. Oh well) as well as the fiberglass insulation, before his fiancee decided they weren't Skoolie folk. Bonus: the floor is plenty solid, with a vulcanized rubber surface on the inside.
Depending on origin, pulling out the windows, and then exterior paint would follow. At least above the middle torpedo belt, if sub-floor compartments were on the menu.
My windows are astoundingly good for a '98, so I had no need to yank them for leakage repair. Next time tho, I'll spray paint, but this go-round I rolled, and mostly got away w/o masking...
Sub-floor exterior, if cutting skirts to make belly compartments: I'd first install whatever utilities (fresh, grey, black water tanks, propane, conduits, & piping) after hacking out the sheet metal sides, so's to take advantage of the opportunity to NOT wriggle around on my back unnecessarily while it was thus afforded.
So, this bus of mine; unremarkably unimpressive in chassis, power plant, or transmission has been a learning experience. My philosophy has long been,
"You learn something every day,
"If you're not careful.
"
I'm hoping my next one will be a worthy recipient of some hard-won lessons.
Yup. I know what to do into the other hand...
Feel free to reappraise your opinion now.
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Old 07-22-2019, 06:04 AM   #43
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Do you have a better recommendation? I see you are in Eustis. We will ultimately be living over in Ormond so we are trying to find the best paint to withstand the humidity and sun.
Automotive paint would be the best, but Rustoleum with some hardener is decent.
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Old 07-22-2019, 07:45 AM   #44
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" I get a school bus, it has to be painted before driven where I live - plus I don't like the idea of a big yellow bus added to the mess of projects on the go that are part of doing what we do - I planned on prepping, priming, and first coating the bus before I did much of anything to the bus - having it look something like it will look when finished may add incentive to get everything done sooner, and a colour schemed bus won't look so red neck to visiting clients - any modifications done to the exterior later, marks, scuffs etc, can be touched up before putting on the final finish coat"


Sound like a good plan to me. Getting it prepped and painted will make it look nice and stop any rusting that's going on. Then build it out.

Ted
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Old 07-24-2019, 11:33 AM   #45
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Does anyone put a clear coat over the Rustoleum? I've heard it fades...
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Old 07-24-2019, 11:35 AM   #46
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Rusto sells clearcoat.
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Old 07-24-2019, 02:32 PM   #47
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Rusto sells clearcoat.

I think I'll add it for peace of mind... curious to hear from anyone who has painted a bus with Rustoleum using no additives or clear?!
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Old 07-24-2019, 03:08 PM   #48
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I think I'll add it for peace of mind... curious to hear from anyone who has painted a bus with Rustoleum using no additives or clear?!
I've not painted a bus with rustoleum, but I have painted cars, pickups and many metal roofs with that product - expect to see a lot of oxidation within 2 years - machinery enamel ( I notice some here call it tractor paint ) is a much more suitable product - even urethane base porch and floor enamel ( over a proper rust inhibiting primer ) is far more long lasting than rust inhibiting paint - I do know what I'm talking about having been a painting contractor for decades - my advice, prepare carefully, then use the best primers and most suitable finish coats available - DO NOT take short cuts with your painting - a good paint job using suitable materials will stay looking nice for 10 years or more - tremclad or rustoleum loses it's good looks in just a couple of years
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Old 07-24-2019, 04:16 PM   #49
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I've not painted a bus with rustoleum, but I have painted cars, pickups and many metal roofs with that product - expect to see a lot of oxidation within 2 years - machinery enamel ( I notice some here call it tractor paint ) is a much more suitable product - even urethane base porch and floor enamel ( over a proper rust inhibiting primer ) is far more long lasting than rust inhibiting paint - I do know what I'm talking about having been a painting contractor for decades - my advice, prepare carefully, then use the best primers and most suitable finish coats available - DO NOT take short cuts with your painting - a good paint job using suitable materials will stay looking nice for 10 years or more - tremclad or rustoleum loses it's good looks in just a couple of years

This is just what I (hoped I wouldn't) needed to hear.


Machinery Enamel then - What is a good option? I am not interested in repainting in two years
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Old 07-24-2019, 04:38 PM   #50
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OK, what about this stuff?

https://www.amazon.com/Diamond-Brite...3II/ref=sr_1_7

Some questions, too, please. What do I need to do with the 25 year old yellow? I haven't found any rust, but there are some places where dust has collected. I've looked at a few and found no rust at all, although I haven't looked at all of them.

So I think I will skip the Rust-Oleum primer for very rusty metal, like I used on my very rusty floor.

So do I need a primer? Or could I just clean and scuff up the yellow and start with the Diamond Brite? Thanks.

And one more question please. 5 gallons shouldn't be way too much for 2 coats rollered onto a 35 foot RE, will it?
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Old 07-24-2019, 05:33 PM   #51
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This is just what I (hoped I wouldn't) needed to hear.


Machinery Enamel then - What is a good option? I am not interested in repainting in two years
most/many paint companies sell machinery enamel - I've used several different brands and they all worked well - I was impressed with what I bought from Caterpillar Tractor - it was good paint, and their price was great - you can buy some machinery enamel thinned with lacquer thinner and others thinned with normal paint thinner - drying time is about the same - I can't say whether one stands up better than the other or not - more care needs to be taken with the mask you use with the ones thinned with lacquer - a tip if you are painting outdoors - if a bug or bugs get stuck in your wet paint, don't touch the bugs - leave them be until the paint is dry to the touch, then gently wipe them off with a soft cotton cloth - the only thing left in the paint will be tiny bug feet and you'll never notice them - if you try and pick the bug out while the paint is wet, you'll leave big marks where you pushed the bug around, or touched the paint with your finger(s)
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Old 07-24-2019, 05:52 PM   #52
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OK, what about this stuff?

https://www.amazon.com/Diamond-Brite...3II/ref=sr_1_7

Some questions, too, please. What do I need to do with the 25 year old yellow? I haven't found any rust, but there are some places where dust has collected. I've looked at a few and found no rust at all, although I haven't looked at all of them.

So I think I will skip the Rust-Oleum primer for very rusty metal, like I used on my very rusty floor.

So do I need a primer? Or could I just clean and scuff up the yellow and start with the Diamond Brite? Thanks.

a very well cleaned and reasonably well sanded surface are important - that 20 year old enamel on a school bus is not good for getting paint to stick to it - that's why you use primer - primer will adhere to that hard slippery surface, and the new enamel will have the primer that it can stick to well

And one more question please. 5 gallons shouldn't be way too much for 2 coats rollered onto a 35 foot RE, will it?
read the label on the container - it will say, 'so many square feet to a gallon' for proper coverage - that is sort of an average number - a very smooth surface will take a bit less - a rough surface will take more - a 2nd coat will take less than the first coat did - - when you figure out the square foot area of your bus, DO NOT subtract area for windows and doors ( somehow trimming around the edges, back rolling, etc, uses up that extra paint - lol ) - on something like a bus, if the label says '350 sq' per gal, I'd estimate 300 sq' per gal, and 250 sq' per gal 2nd coat - if you are using a lot less paint than it says on the label and you have problems with the paint later on, the paint company won't stand behind their warrantee because you didn't follow directions
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Old 07-24-2019, 05:58 PM   #53
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I already did that. I can use numbers. I just don't remember them very long.
Mostly because I will use a roller, and they probably didn't, I was wondering if my results might be noticeably less than their's.
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Old 07-24-2019, 06:02 PM   #54
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I already did that. I can use numbers. I just don't remember them very long.
Mostly because I will use a roller, and they probably didn't, I was wondering if my results might be noticeably less than their's.
my first guess would be you weren't applying the paint thick enough if you used considerably less than it said on the paint label
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Old 07-24-2019, 06:15 PM   #55
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OK, Thanks, and what about a primer? Am I taking much of a chance by thinking about skipping a primer?
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Old 07-24-2019, 06:29 PM   #56
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OK, Thanks, and what about a primer? Am I taking much of a chance by thinking about skipping a primer?
yes - I highly recommend a primer
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Old 07-24-2019, 06:43 PM   #57
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A couple gallons of this, I guess:

https://www.amazon.com/Diamond-Brite...JA/ref=sr_1_21

Do I need to scuff up the yellow, or will just pressuring washing it and letting it dry do for surface prep?

I want to get everything ready to do this when the weather and my mood tell me it's time. We're still getting overnight lows in the 50s. And I have lots of other things lining up that are more pressing than this.

I've just realized that I have to do this before I leave here where I am now.

Thanks a lot for all your suggestions.
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Old 07-24-2019, 07:29 PM   #58
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Originally Posted by gs1949 View Post
A couple gallons of this, I guess:

https://www.amazon.com/Diamond-Brite...JA/ref=sr_1_21

Do I need to scuff up the yellow, or will just pressuring washing it and letting it dry do for surface prep?

I want to get everything ready to do this when the weather and my mood tell me it's time. We're still getting overnight lows in the 50s. And I have lots of other things lining up that are more pressing than this.

I've just realized that I have to do this before I leave here where I am now.

Thanks a lot for all your suggestions.
I repeat, 'a very well cleaned and reasonably well sanded surface are important' - how long is your bus? anything dry and above 50 are fine - don't paint in the direct sun if you can help it - full sun on even a 70 degree day can blister the fresh paint
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Old 07-24-2019, 07:43 PM   #59
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There are trees. It's in the shade. I have no choice. There is a flat place on the other side of the house. But there is impending construction, backhoes, ditches, etc, so I am under myrtle trees.


And I have to get all those vinyl letters off, Auburn School District and etc. Guess I'll get a heat gun. Thanks for all the usefull info.
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Old 07-24-2019, 07:44 PM   #60
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There are trees. It's in the shade. I have no choice. There is a flat place on the other side of the house. But there is impending construction, backhoes, ditches, etc, so I am under myrtle trees.


And I have to get all those vinyl letters off, Auburn School District and etc. Guess I'll get a heat gun. Thanks for all the usefull info.
........................................
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