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07-21-2019, 04:05 PM
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#21
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Bus Nut
Join Date: Jul 2016
Location: Western Oregon
Posts: 876
Year: 1995
Coachwork: Blue-Bird
Chassis: TC RE 3408
Engine: 5.9 Cummins 12V Mechanical/Allison MT643
Rated Cap: Blue-Bird says 72 pass.
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But rolling it comes in second place and is still quite effective, right?
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07-21-2019, 04:06 PM
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#22
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Bus Crazy
Join Date: Nov 2018
Location: south east BC, close to the Canadian/US border
Posts: 2,265
Year: 1975
Coachwork: Chevy
Chassis: 8 window
Engine: 454 LS7
Rated Cap: 24,500
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Quote:
Originally Posted by o1marc
It's not too thick for a sprayer?
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with the right sprayer you can spray waterproofing tar on concrete foundations, or drywall filler on interior walls
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07-21-2019, 04:15 PM
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#23
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Bus Crazy
Join Date: Nov 2018
Location: south east BC, close to the Canadian/US border
Posts: 2,265
Year: 1975
Coachwork: Chevy
Chassis: 8 window
Engine: 454 LS7
Rated Cap: 24,500
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gs1949
But rolling it comes in second place and is still quite effective, right?
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sure, but the smoother it is the less dirt and grime it will hold, therefore lasting longer - if I were to go that route I would lay the material on thick with a heavy nap roller sleeve, then smooth it out with a short nap roller sleeve - do it in sections moving quickly so you keep a 'wet edge' - lay it on heavy enough so the paint looks like it has little braids on the surface, then smooth that with the short nap - that should give you about a 10 mil thick coating - the rollers should almost or partially be sliding on the surface - what thickness does it specify on the paint can?
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07-21-2019, 04:30 PM
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#24
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Bus Crazy
Join Date: Oct 2017
Location: E Central Tejas
Posts: 2,094
Year: 1998
Coachwork: Thomas
Chassis: IH 3800, 8 window
Engine: T444E w/ Spicer 5-speed MT
Rated Cap: I prefer broad-brims hats
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Thanx for the rollers tip.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Sleddgracer
sure, but the smoother it is the less dirt and grime it will hold, therefore lasting longer - if I were to go that route I would lay the material on thick with a heavy nap roller sleeve, then smooth it out with a short nap roller sleeve - do it in sections moving quickly so you keep a 'wet edge' - lay it on heavy enough so the paint looks like it has little braids on the surface, then smooth that with the short nap - that should give you about a 10 mil thick coating - the rollers should almost or partially be sliding on the surface - what thickness does it specify on the paint can?
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I suspect my Wagner Airless won't be up to this task!
__________________
Those who say that it cannot be done should not interrupt the people doing it.
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07-21-2019, 04:34 PM
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#25
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Bus Geek
Join Date: Dec 2017
Location: Dawsonville, Ga.
Posts: 10,482
Year: 1999
Coachwork: Genesis
Chassis: International
Engine: DT466/3060
Rated Cap: 77
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sleddgracer
sure, but the smoother it is the less dirt and grime it will hold, therefore lasting longer - if I were to go that route I would lay the material on thick with a heavy nap roller sleeve, then smooth it out with a short nap roller sleeve - do it in sections moving quickly so you keep a 'wet edge' - lay it on heavy enough so the paint looks like it has little braids on the surface, then smooth that with the short nap - that should give you about a 10 mil thick coating - the rollers should almost or partially be sliding on the surface - what thickness does it specify on the paint can?
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Calls for 125 wet mils, 1/8" thick. Directions say, spray, roll or brush.
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07-21-2019, 04:39 PM
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#26
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Mini-Skoolie
Join Date: Oct 2018
Posts: 14
Year: 1991
Engine: 7.8 Liter Ford/New Holland inline 6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by o1marc
When painting the roof in an elastomeric paint, what method delivers the smoothest result?
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We used a roller. The paint is thick and not meant to be thinned. There is an acrylic micro bead component that maximizes the thermal protection. Other reviewers that used a sprayer said they had to stop multiple times to clean their spray gun. (Which probably means they didn't have the right gun)
Our roof is 33' and 2 gallons primer and 2 gallons paint gave us 3 coats each by roller. Each coat took approximately 45 minutes to apply. Definitely use a long arm roller.
This stuff is working great so far (made for bus roofs!) and we will update regarding effectiveness as we go.
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07-21-2019, 04:45 PM
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#27
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Bus Nut
Join Date: Jul 2016
Location: Western Oregon
Posts: 876
Year: 1995
Coachwork: Blue-Bird
Chassis: TC RE 3408
Engine: 5.9 Cummins 12V Mechanical/Allison MT643
Rated Cap: Blue-Bird says 72 pass.
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@o1marc, which paint are you using?
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07-21-2019, 04:48 PM
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#28
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Mini-Skoolie
Join Date: Oct 2018
Posts: 14
Year: 1991
Engine: 7.8 Liter Ford/New Holland inline 6
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I would listen to Sleddgracer. Sounds like he knows his stuff.
We know our amateur limitations. ��
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07-21-2019, 04:54 PM
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#29
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Mini-Skoolie
Join Date: Oct 2018
Posts: 14
Year: 1991
Engine: 7.8 Liter Ford/New Holland inline 6
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Question for Sleddgracer:
We have been researching paint for the body of our bus. We saw some people recommend Tractor paint and we've heard Exterior House paint with a hardener.
Any thoughts on either?
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07-21-2019, 04:57 PM
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#30
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Bus Geek
Join Date: Dec 2017
Location: Dawsonville, Ga.
Posts: 10,482
Year: 1999
Coachwork: Genesis
Chassis: International
Engine: DT466/3060
Rated Cap: 77
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gs1949
@o1marc, which paint are you using?
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Henry's Tan Tropicool
Directions don't call for a primer, is it necessary?
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07-21-2019, 04:58 PM
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#31
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Bus Crazy
Join Date: Nov 2018
Location: south east BC, close to the Canadian/US border
Posts: 2,265
Year: 1975
Coachwork: Chevy
Chassis: 8 window
Engine: 454 LS7
Rated Cap: 24,500
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Quote:
Originally Posted by o1marc
Calls for 125 wet mils, 1/8" thick. Directions say, spray, roll or brush.
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WOW! - that is THICK ! - you will have to really lay that on with a roller - a commercial airless could do it - one that pumps 3000 lbs @ 5 gal per minute with the petcocks wide open would work
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07-21-2019, 05:06 PM
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#32
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Bus Geek
Join Date: Sep 2014
Location: Eustis FLORIDA
Posts: 23,764
Year: 1999
Coachwork: Thomas
Chassis: Freighliner FS65
Engine: Cat 3126
Rated Cap: 15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DaCaNoWiSe
Question for Sleddgracer:
We have been researching paint for the body of our bus. We saw some people recommend Tractor paint and we've heard Exterior House paint with a hardener.
Any thoughts on either?
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Don't use house paint.
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07-21-2019, 05:12 PM
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#33
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Bus Geek
Join Date: Dec 2017
Location: Dawsonville, Ga.
Posts: 10,482
Year: 1999
Coachwork: Genesis
Chassis: International
Engine: DT466/3060
Rated Cap: 77
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sleddgracer
WOW! - that is THICK ! - you will have to really lay that on with a roller - a commercial airless could do it - one that pumps 3000 lbs @ 5 gal per minute with the petcocks wide open would work
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Do you taper it off at the tape edge? Thoughts of having body color down first, so masking a thick edge is a PITA when it's time to paint the body.
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07-21-2019, 05:12 PM
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#34
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Mini-Skoolie
Join Date: Oct 2018
Posts: 14
Year: 1991
Engine: 7.8 Liter Ford/New Holland inline 6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by EastCoastCB
Don't use house paint.
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Do you have a better recommendation? I see you are in Eustis. We will ultimately be living over in Ormond so we are trying to find the best paint to withstand the humidity and sun.
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07-21-2019, 05:49 PM
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#35
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Bus Crazy
Join Date: Oct 2017
Location: E Central Tejas
Posts: 2,094
Year: 1998
Coachwork: Thomas
Chassis: IH 3800, 8 window
Engine: T444E w/ Spicer 5-speed MT
Rated Cap: I prefer broad-brims hats
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Yup,
Quote:
Originally Posted by DaCaNoWiSe
Do you have a better recommendation? I see you are in Eustis. We will ultimately be living over in Ormond so we are trying to find the best paint to withstand the humidity and sun.
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ANYTHING other than house paint!
Unless you're a masochist who enjoys the pain of painting... [emoji6]
__________________
Those who say that it cannot be done should not interrupt the people doing it.
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07-21-2019, 06:22 PM
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#36
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Bus Crazy
Join Date: Nov 2018
Location: south east BC, close to the Canadian/US border
Posts: 2,265
Year: 1975
Coachwork: Chevy
Chassis: 8 window
Engine: 454 LS7
Rated Cap: 24,500
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Quote:
Originally Posted by o1marc
Do you taper it off at the tape edge? Thoughts of having body color down first, so masking a thick edge is a PITA when it's time to paint the body.
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I'd mask off an edge like that if you don't have a natural edge to work to
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07-21-2019, 06:27 PM
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#37
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Bus Crazy
Join Date: Nov 2018
Location: south east BC, close to the Canadian/US border
Posts: 2,265
Year: 1975
Coachwork: Chevy
Chassis: 8 window
Engine: 454 LS7
Rated Cap: 24,500
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DaCaNoWiSe
Do you have a better recommendation? I see you are in Eustis. We will ultimately be living over in Ormond so we are trying to find the best paint to withstand the humidity and sun.
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if you aren't going to use automotive paint, at least go to fast dry machinery enamel and add some hardener - 'Japan Dryer' is the best one - cobalt drier if the other isn't available
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Oil_drying_agent
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07-21-2019, 06:35 PM
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#38
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Mini-Skoolie
Join Date: Oct 2018
Posts: 14
Year: 1991
Engine: 7.8 Liter Ford/New Holland inline 6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HazMatt
Yup,ANYTHING other than house paint!
Unless you're a masochist who enjoys the pain of painting... [emoji6]
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I actually do love to paint. I will paint and repaint anything and everything. I tried to paint the kids, but my husband stopped me buzzkill. OK. No house paint.
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07-21-2019, 06:37 PM
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#39
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Mini-Skoolie
Join Date: Oct 2018
Posts: 14
Year: 1991
Engine: 7.8 Liter Ford/New Holland inline 6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sleddgracer
if you aren't going to use automotive paint, at least go to fast dry machinery enamel and add some hardener - 'Japan Dryer' is the best one - cobalt drier if the other isn't available
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Oil_drying_agent |
I will look into all. Automotive paint is a bit pricier so we were just looking for other viable options.
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07-21-2019, 06:41 PM
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#40
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Mini-Skoolie
Join Date: Oct 2018
Posts: 14
Year: 1991
Engine: 7.8 Liter Ford/New Holland inline 6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HazMatt
Yup,ANYTHING other than house paint!
Unless you're a masochist who enjoys the pain of painting... [emoji6]
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Do you have an opinion on WHEN to paint? Before building the interior (it is down to its shell) but after we build the undercarriage boxes, etc. Or should we save it til the very end?
I've been following this site for years and you post quite often and seem very knowledgeable so can you drop some of that here?
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