When you..

[90sKidFatherNow]

When you guys closed up your holes in the bus floor, I know there are many different ways to get it done. I don't have a welder or budget for one right now. Was going to silicone after the first paint layer, but I hear it's not the best on the bus lol.
Seen another guy used flex tape to swap up the holes and any extra ones. Thought that might be better than f$@&#ing around with Bondo and crap. So please share, I'll be cleaning and primer this weekend and painting starting in the week 🤩🤩🤩 so pumped

[HazMatt]

A penny for your caulks...

Originally Posted by 90sKidFatherNow

When you guys closed up your holes in the bus floor, I know there are many different ways to get it done. I don't have a welder or budget for one right now. Was going to silicone after the first paint layer, but I hear it's not the best on the bus lol.
Seen another guy used flex tape to swap up the holes and any extra ones. Thought that might be better than f$@&#ing around with Bondo and crap. So please share, I'll be cleaning and primer this weekend and painting starting in the week 🤩🤩🤩 so pumped

No, seriously- Lay down a small doughnut of caulk (non silicone) or JB Weld, then smoosh a penny into it to seal the bolt hole.
Now I hear your next question: "Do I want to use pennies minted before 1982, or those struck later..?!!"
A valid question young feller.
Post-'82 are copper clad zinc, earlier pennies are pure copper, arguably making them more valuable for scrap than their putative face value.
Dielectric concerns are probably non-existent, since the coins are insulated from the floor by the fixative.
Hope this made cents...

[o1marc]

Construction adhesive and pennies is what I did, quick, easy, cheap.
I actually welded a few up and said screw that, gonna take too long.

[90sKidFatherNow]

Originally Posted by o1marc

Construction adhesive and pennies is what I did, quick, easy, cheap.
I actually welded a few up and said screw that, gonna take too long.

First off thank you to both of you guys for replying and giving input!
Turns out I did buy some construction adhesive so far Gorilla hasn't failed me! Don't have enough pennies but I'll just cut little bits of metal.

[o1marc]

Originally Posted by 90sKidFatherNow

First off thank you to both of you guys for replying and giving input!
Turns out I did buy some construction adhesive so far Gorilla hasn't failed me! Don't have enough pennies but I'll just cut little bits of metal.

Everything I've used that glue on I was disappointed. It seems like it expands quite a bit while drying and ends up running a foamy access.

[cadillackid]

for me JB-weld or bust... I know that stuff gets a bad rap on here. but I Like JB weld esp on stuff thats a little dirty much better than gorilla glue..



if using metal you can use 550 seam sealer, that stuff sticks to anything..

[HazMatt]

I'd splurge if'n I was short on cents, and use whatever change I could scrounge up. What's your time worth, scrimping and snipping scraps?
Obviously, since I'm a Skoolie, I am short on sense...
(Never seem to suffer shortage of cents)

Originally Posted by 90sKidFatherNow

First off thank you to both of you guys for replying and giving input!
Turns out I did buy some construction adhesive so far Gorilla hasn't failed me! Don't have enough pennies but I'll just cut little bits of metal.

Nothing but love for da G Glue. In an appropriate application...
It sez upfront that it expands while curing. The trick for me has been scraping it thin enough not to deform the join while thick enuf to immobilize what I want to not ever again move, easily...

Originally Posted by o1marc

Everything I've used that glue on I was disappointed. It seems like it expands quite a bit while drying and ends up running a foamy access.

Like the foregoing Go-rilla reply, JB Weld works, so long as too much isn't expected of it.
Not recommended for, say, mending a cracked connecting rod, or adhering roof deck pilings...

Originally Posted by cadillackid

for me JB-weld or bust... I know that stuff gets a bad rap on here. but I Like JB weld esp on stuff thats a little dirty much better than gorilla glue..



if using metal you can use 550 seam sealer, that stuff sticks to anything..

[o1marc]

JB Weld is too expensive for that application IMHO.

[90sKidFatherNow]

I figured I'd just put the appropriate layer or amount at a time, says it's good for gap filling too but I don't mind to cut a scrap metal and adhere it down. But if it's does the gap filling good enough I'll just do that on the bolt holes, than a final layer of paint over top after. Just value the time cutting the metal up and not dealing with the kids haha

[Sleddgracer]

check this thread for floor patching

http://www.skoolie.net/forums/f13/an...ese-26316.html

[TheHubbardBus]

Originally Posted by haz.matt.1960

A penny for your caulks...No, seriously- Lay down a small doughnut of caulk (non silicone) or JB Weld, then smoosh a penny into it to seal the bolt hole.
Now I hear your next question: "Do I want to use pennies minted before 1982, or those struck later..?!!"
A valid question young feller.
Post-'82 are copper clad zinc, earlier pennies are pure copper, arguably making them more valuable for scrap than their putative face value.
Dielectric concerns are probably non-existent, since the coins are insulated from the floor by the fixative.
Hope this made cents...

I love your sense of style

[90sKidFatherNow]

Interesting

[HazMatt]

Like so many things in life, I found that just a smidge gooped around the orifice was usually sufficient to my needs.
Besides, I order my JB internationally. Love those 1 liter tubes of epoxy n fixer...

Originally Posted by o1marc

JB Weld is too expensive for that application IMHO.

That works, primarily since you're already in possession of the GGlue. No need to go crazy, a quick, thin (1-2mm) swoop will do. Just float the metal of your choice, and move along.
OK, understandable: offspawn-avoidance would tend to promote an exercision the tin snips..!
(sounds like my old man... [emoji848])

Originally Posted by 90sKidFatherNow

I figured I'd just put the appropriate layer or amount at a time, says it's good for gap filling too but I don't mind to cut a scrap metal and adhere it down. But if it's does the gap filling good enough I'll just do that on the bolt holes, than a final layer of paint over top after. Just value the time cutting the metal up and not dealing with the kids haha

No doubt an earlier resurrection of this excellent thread would precluded much of the duplicated folderol in this one! [emoji6]

Originally Posted by Sleddgracer

check this thread for floor patching
http://www.skoolie.net/forums/f13/an...ese-26316.html

And I love that you get me!
*deep bow*

Originally Posted by TheHubbardBus

I love your sense of style

No guarantee you'll learn anything useful here.
Entertaining &/or interesting are worthy alternatives...

Originally Posted by 90sKidFatherNow

Interesting

[o1marc]

Originally Posted by haz.matt.1960

Like so many things in life, I found that just a smidge gooped around the orifice was usually sufficient to my needs.
Besides, I order my JB internationally. Love those 1 liter tubes of epoxy n fixer...


That works, primarily since you're already in possession of the GGlue. No need to go crazy, a quick, thin (1-2mm) swoop will do. Just float the metal of your choice, and move along.
OK, understandable: offspawn-avoidance would tend to promote an exercision the tin snips..!
(sounds like my old man... [emoji848])


No doubt an earlier resurrection of this excellent thread would precluded much of the duplicated folderol in this one! [emoji6]


And I love that you get me!
*deep bow*


No guarantee you'll learn anything useful here.
Entertaining &/or interesting are worthy alternatives...

What are you referring to when you mention JB Weld. It is a brand name and their main product is called JB Weld, dark gray, only comes in 2 sizes, 1oz. and 5oz. Pro size. They make a number of other products, which one are you getting overseas that is in liter containers?