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05-25-2019, 08:22 AM
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#1
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Mini-Skoolie
Join Date: May 2019
Location: Medicine hat
Posts: 44
Year: 1998
Coachwork: Blue Bird
Engine: International 3800
Rated Cap: 72 passenger
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When you..
When you guys closed up your holes in the bus floor, I know there are many different ways to get it done. I don't have a welder or budget for one right now. Was going to silicone after the first paint layer, but I hear it's not the best on the bus lol.
Seen another guy used flex tape to swap up the holes and any extra ones. Thought that might be better than f$@&#ing around with Bondo and crap. So please share, I'll be cleaning and primer this weekend and painting starting in the week 🤩🤩🤩 so pumped
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05-25-2019, 09:49 AM
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#2
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Bus Crazy
Join Date: Oct 2017
Location: E Central Tejas
Posts: 2,094
Year: 1998
Coachwork: Thomas
Chassis: IH 3800, 8 window
Engine: T444E w/ Spicer 5-speed MT
Rated Cap: I prefer broad-brims hats
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A penny for your caulks...
Quote:
Originally Posted by 90sKidFatherNow
When you guys closed up your holes in the bus floor, I know there are many different ways to get it done. I don't have a welder or budget for one right now. Was going to silicone after the first paint layer, but I hear it's not the best on the bus lol.
Seen another guy used flex tape to swap up the holes and any extra ones. Thought that might be better than f$@&#ing around with Bondo and crap. So please share, I'll be cleaning and primer this weekend and painting starting in the week 🤩🤩🤩 so pumped
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No, seriously- Lay down a small doughnut of caulk (non silicone) or JB Weld, then smoosh a penny into it to seal the bolt hole.
Now I hear your next question: "Do I want to use pennies minted before 1982, or those struck later..?!!"
A valid question young feller.
Post-'82 are copper clad zinc, earlier pennies are pure copper, arguably making them more valuable for scrap than their putative face value.
Dielectric concerns are probably non-existent, since the coins are insulated from the floor by the fixative.
Hope this made cents...
__________________
Those who say that it cannot be done should not interrupt the people doing it.
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05-25-2019, 11:18 AM
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#3
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Bus Geek
Join Date: Dec 2017
Location: Dawsonville, Ga.
Posts: 10,482
Year: 1999
Coachwork: Genesis
Chassis: International
Engine: DT466/3060
Rated Cap: 77
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Construction adhesive and pennies is what I did, quick, easy, cheap.
I actually welded a few up and said screw that, gonna take too long.
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05-25-2019, 11:53 AM
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#4
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Mini-Skoolie
Join Date: May 2019
Location: Medicine hat
Posts: 44
Year: 1998
Coachwork: Blue Bird
Engine: International 3800
Rated Cap: 72 passenger
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Quote:
Originally Posted by o1marc
Construction adhesive and pennies is what I did, quick, easy, cheap.
I actually welded a few up and said screw that, gonna take too long.
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First off thank you to both of you guys for replying and giving input!
Turns out I did buy some construction adhesive so far Gorilla hasn't failed me! Don't have enough pennies but I'll just cut little bits of metal.
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05-25-2019, 12:05 PM
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#5
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Bus Geek
Join Date: Dec 2017
Location: Dawsonville, Ga.
Posts: 10,482
Year: 1999
Coachwork: Genesis
Chassis: International
Engine: DT466/3060
Rated Cap: 77
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 90sKidFatherNow
First off thank you to both of you guys for replying and giving input!
Turns out I did buy some construction adhesive so far Gorilla hasn't failed me! Don't have enough pennies but I'll just cut little bits of metal.
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Everything I've used that glue on I was disappointed. It seems like it expands quite a bit while drying and ends up running a foamy access.
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05-25-2019, 12:35 PM
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#6
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Bus Geek
Join Date: May 2009
Location: Columbus Ohio
Posts: 18,830
Year: 1991
Coachwork: Carpenter
Chassis: International 3800
Engine: DTA360 / MT643
Rated Cap: 7 Row Handicap
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for me JB-weld or bust... I know that stuff gets a bad rap on here. but I Like JB weld esp on stuff thats a little dirty much better than gorilla glue..
if using metal you can use 550 seam sealer, that stuff sticks to anything..
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05-25-2019, 01:03 PM
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#7
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Bus Crazy
Join Date: Oct 2017
Location: E Central Tejas
Posts: 2,094
Year: 1998
Coachwork: Thomas
Chassis: IH 3800, 8 window
Engine: T444E w/ Spicer 5-speed MT
Rated Cap: I prefer broad-brims hats
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I'd splurge if'n I was short on cents, and use whatever change I could scrounge up. What's your time worth, scrimping and snipping scraps?
Obviously, since I'm a Skoolie, I am short on sense...
(Never seem to suffer shortage of cents)
Quote:
Originally Posted by 90sKidFatherNow
First off thank you to both of you guys for replying and giving input!
Turns out I did buy some construction adhesive so far Gorilla hasn't failed me! Don't have enough pennies but I'll just cut little bits of metal.
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Nothing but love for da G Glue. In an appropriate application...
It sez upfront that it expands while curing. The trick for me has been scraping it thin enough not to deform the join while thick enuf to immobilize what I want to not ever again move, easily...
Quote:
Originally Posted by o1marc
Everything I've used that glue on I was disappointed. It seems like it expands quite a bit while drying and ends up running a foamy access.
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Like the foregoing Go-rilla reply, JB Weld works, so long as too much isn't expected of it.
Not recommended for, say, mending a cracked connecting rod, or adhering roof deck pilings...
Quote:
Originally Posted by cadillackid
for me JB-weld or bust... I know that stuff gets a bad rap on here. but I Like JB weld esp on stuff thats a little dirty much better than gorilla glue..
if using metal you can use 550 seam sealer, that stuff sticks to anything..
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__________________
Those who say that it cannot be done should not interrupt the people doing it.
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05-25-2019, 02:17 PM
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#8
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Bus Geek
Join Date: Dec 2017
Location: Dawsonville, Ga.
Posts: 10,482
Year: 1999
Coachwork: Genesis
Chassis: International
Engine: DT466/3060
Rated Cap: 77
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JB Weld is too expensive for that application IMHO.
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05-25-2019, 02:30 PM
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#9
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Mini-Skoolie
Join Date: May 2019
Location: Medicine hat
Posts: 44
Year: 1998
Coachwork: Blue Bird
Engine: International 3800
Rated Cap: 72 passenger
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I figured I'd just put the appropriate layer or amount at a time, says it's good for gap filling too but I don't mind to cut a scrap metal and adhere it down. But if it's does the gap filling good enough I'll just do that on the bolt holes, than a final layer of paint over top after. Just value the time cutting the metal up and not dealing with the kids haha
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05-25-2019, 02:36 PM
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#10
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Bus Crazy
Join Date: Nov 2018
Location: south east BC, close to the Canadian/US border
Posts: 2,265
Year: 1975
Coachwork: Chevy
Chassis: 8 window
Engine: 454 LS7
Rated Cap: 24,500
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05-25-2019, 02:42 PM
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#11
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Bus Crazy
Join Date: Apr 2019
Location: SW USA
Posts: 2,064
Year: 2003
Coachwork: IC / Amtran
Chassis: CE300
Engine: International T444e
Rated Cap: 23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by haz.matt.1960
A penny for your caulks...No, seriously- Lay down a small doughnut of caulk (non silicone) or JB Weld, then smoosh a penny into it to seal the bolt hole.
Now I hear your next question: "Do I want to use pennies minted before 1982, or those struck later..?!!"
A valid question young feller.
Post-'82 are copper clad zinc, earlier pennies are pure copper, arguably making them more valuable for scrap than their putative face value.
Dielectric concerns are probably non-existent, since the coins are insulated from the floor by the fixative.
Hope this made cents...
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I love your sense of style
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05-25-2019, 03:02 PM
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#12
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Mini-Skoolie
Join Date: May 2019
Location: Medicine hat
Posts: 44
Year: 1998
Coachwork: Blue Bird
Engine: International 3800
Rated Cap: 72 passenger
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Interesting
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05-25-2019, 04:17 PM
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#13
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Bus Crazy
Join Date: Oct 2017
Location: E Central Tejas
Posts: 2,094
Year: 1998
Coachwork: Thomas
Chassis: IH 3800, 8 window
Engine: T444E w/ Spicer 5-speed MT
Rated Cap: I prefer broad-brims hats
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Like so many things in life, I found that just a smidge gooped around the orifice was usually sufficient to my needs.
Besides, I order my JB internationally. Love those 1 liter tubes of epoxy n fixer...
Quote:
Originally Posted by o1marc
JB Weld is too expensive for that application IMHO.
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That works, primarily since you're already in possession of the GGlue. No need to go crazy, a quick, thin (1-2mm) swoop will do. Just float the metal of your choice, and move along.
OK, understandable: offspawn-avoidance would tend to promote an exercision the tin snips..!
(sounds like my old man... [emoji848])
Quote:
Originally Posted by 90sKidFatherNow
I figured I'd just put the appropriate layer or amount at a time, says it's good for gap filling too but I don't mind to cut a scrap metal and adhere it down. But if it's does the gap filling good enough I'll just do that on the bolt holes, than a final layer of paint over top after. Just value the time cutting the metal up and not dealing with the kids haha
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No doubt an earlier resurrection of this excellent thread would precluded much of the duplicated folderol in this one! [emoji6]
Quote:
Originally Posted by Sleddgracer
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And I love that you get me!
*deep bow*
Quote:
Originally Posted by TheHubbardBus
I love your sense of style
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No guarantee you'll learn anything useful here.
Entertaining &/or interesting are worthy alternatives...
Quote:
Originally Posted by 90sKidFatherNow
Interesting
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__________________
Those who say that it cannot be done should not interrupt the people doing it.
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05-25-2019, 05:29 PM
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#14
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Bus Geek
Join Date: Dec 2017
Location: Dawsonville, Ga.
Posts: 10,482
Year: 1999
Coachwork: Genesis
Chassis: International
Engine: DT466/3060
Rated Cap: 77
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Quote:
Originally Posted by haz.matt.1960
Like so many things in life, I found that just a smidge gooped around the orifice was usually sufficient to my needs.
Besides, I order my JB internationally. Love those 1 liter tubes of epoxy n fixer...
That works, primarily since you're already in possession of the GGlue. No need to go crazy, a quick, thin (1-2mm) swoop will do. Just float the metal of your choice, and move along.
OK, understandable: offspawn-avoidance would tend to promote an exercision the tin snips..!
(sounds like my old man... [emoji848])
No doubt an earlier resurrection of this excellent thread would precluded much of the duplicated folderol in this one! [emoji6]
And I love that you get me!
*deep bow*
No guarantee you'll learn anything useful here.
Entertaining &/or interesting are worthy alternatives...
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What are you referring to when you mention JB Weld. It is a brand name and their main product is called JB Weld, dark gray, only comes in 2 sizes, 1oz. and 5oz. Pro size. They make a number of other products, which one are you getting overseas that is in liter containers?
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