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Old 06-10-2020, 07:35 PM   #21
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Yes, I think Henryís works best if you donít think of it as a waterproofer.
Here's what Henry says about their (his?) Tropi-Cool roof coating:

Quote:
  • 100% waterproof
It seems strange that their #1 feature is that, but everybody says you need to waterproof your roof first for it to work. It reminds me of the movie Go where the heroine sells kids fake X and tells them they need to smoke a lot of pot for it to work.

Quote:
  • Save energy by reflecting heat
This is kind of vague from a Physics standpoint. Your bus can absorb heat from the surrounding air via convection and conduction, or from sunlight via radiation. Paint can reflect radiation and in that sense can be said to "reflect heat". Tropi-Cool can't reflect heat absorbed via conduction or convection, so it can't "reflect heat" in any other sense but I guess the claim is technically true - it's just true about every other kind of paint as well.
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Old 06-12-2020, 07:20 AM   #22
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My point exactly. While is is waterproof, itís best not to think of it as a cure all for your roof. It can be part of your roof system. It will not fix a rusty pin hole, seam gap, loose rivet, etc.
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Old 06-12-2020, 08:07 AM   #23
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Its kind of a naive to think a paint product will be any kind of permanent fix for leaky roofs.
I just don't like thin rubberized coatings on stuff in general. FL is hell on that kinda stuff.
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Old 06-12-2020, 06:17 PM   #24
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Are any of these roof coatings not rubberized? When I think rubberized I thing decay and dirt getting into cracks. I'd prefer something smooth and shiny.
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Old 06-13-2020, 09:26 AM   #25
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Hey, I live in Texas where we stay in triple digits during summer. All of our buses down here come with white roofs. I don't think I've ever seen one that wasn't white.

How many coats and would the ceramic beads help? Also if the beads were added how much texture would they add? Even though the inside would be covered with insulation, then some kind of wood, would painting the metal skin of the walls and ceiling with white paint and ceramic beads before insulating help keep the bus any cooler?
To get maximum cooling from your paint job you need to paint your whole exterior white. The outer skin transfers heat so if you have hot spots on it, (say like from a dark colour below the windows) then that is going to negate some of the good work your roof is doing.
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Old 06-14-2020, 05:35 AM   #26
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Originally Posted by PNW_Steve View Post
A member here did a pretty thorough test of various roof coatings. He cut uniform pieces of sheet metal and coated each one with a different coating. Then he set them on a rack out in the sun and took temperature readings from the under side of the metal.

In the end the ceramic beads mixed in white enamel paint performed the best by a tiny margin. A very close second was sawdust mixed with white enamel. Running a very close third was plain white enamel.

The elastomeric coatings did not perform as well as plain white paint.

The top three were close enough that going with just paint was an easy decision for me.

My Bluebird came from Western Oregon and had a yellow roof. The white shows the moss too much

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Old 06-14-2020, 06:03 AM   #27
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[QUOTE=EastCoastCB;390260]my strategy is- seal the roof properly and paint it with whatever you paint the bus with. NOT house paint.[/QUOTE

I agree, sort of.... you might want to paint it first to get good adhesion of the paint then seal the leaks with a elastomeric or sealant (the paint may not stick to the elastomeric /sealant or vice versa)

My 2cents...

Elastomerics are a roofing product, not a paint. Their big claim to fame is that they seal and stretch, allowing the seal to be maintained on roofs that move/expand/shrink a lot. They are white because it only makes sense to keep the roof temp down in the summer and its good for sales. Compared to the costs of re-roofing, they are cheap, although most applications are done incorrectly and therfore the warranty is void.

When they first came out they were sold mostly to repair metal roofs. Now they are used on most every type of roof. The early formulations were merely extra thick latex or acrylic latex paint, if I remember right. The roofing contractors salesmen that peddled them would paint pieces of glass with several coats, then peel off the paint and use it for samples to put in the customers hands so they could stretch and pull on it. Now there are many formulations including silicon. They are meant to be reapplied every so often and are not meant to last like paint. In roofing, reapplications are where the money is.


Remember...Elastomerics are a roofing product, not a paint. If you read the instructions you will see that caulks and reinforcing fabrics are supposed to be used on cracks and problem areas. Is your roof leaking? You can find out with a water hose. Did you make a lot of penetrations/holes in your roof installing stuff on your roof? If you did you should be more concerned with your roof leaking than how good it looks or how good an insulator/reflector it is.


I'm guessing that a good urethane or epoxy paint would be a good choice. Good prep is the key to good paint.

My question would be what kind of paint do/did the bus manufactures use? It seems to last and does a good job of sealing and they actually have a stake in whether it works good - or not.
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