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07-13-2019, 11:48 AM
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#1
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New Member
Join Date: Jul 2019
Posts: 4
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Wood on outside of Bus
So I recently got my first bus and was thinking about muting some cedar to the outside (or something like it) and I have only found 2 photos of people who have done this to the exterior of their buses. So figured I would come here and ask if anyone has an idea how to do it, or done it before.
Photo for example only
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07-13-2019, 12:06 PM
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#2
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Bus Nut
Join Date: May 2019
Location: Lebanon, Indiana
Posts: 911
Year: 2000
Coachwork: Winnebago
Chassis: Ford F53
Engine: Ford Triton V-10
Rated Cap: currently 2
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For Esthetics only or as insulation or to get that Woody look?
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07-13-2019, 12:08 PM
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#3
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Bus Geek
Join Date: Jan 2019
Location: Philadelphia
Posts: 6,995
Year: 2003
Coachwork: International
Chassis: CE 300
Engine: DT466e
Rated Cap: 65C-43A
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sehnsucht
For Esthetics only or as insulation or to get that Woody look?
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Wood is about R1 per inch, so I'm assuming aesthetics.
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07-13-2019, 12:10 PM
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#4
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Skoolie
Join Date: Oct 2016
Location: Rochester NY
Posts: 209
Year: 1986
Coachwork: Blueburd
Chassis: International S1800
Engine: 9.0L International Diesel NA
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My worry would be that it would hold moisture against the sheet metal and invite rust. You could seal the wood in epoxy or a **** ton of lacquer. A vinyl applique might be a better solution if going for the "woody" aesthetic.
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07-13-2019, 12:16 PM
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#5
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New Member
Join Date: Jul 2019
Posts: 4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sehnsucht
For Esthetics only or as insulation or to get that Woody look?
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Just for looks. I own a metal sign business called Farmhouse Metals, and this is going to be my mobile store. So the touch of rustic on the outside is an idea I would love to add, but curious about making it stay to the outside.
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07-13-2019, 12:17 PM
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#6
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New Member
Join Date: Jul 2019
Posts: 4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rochey6957
My worry would be that it would hold moisture against the sheet metal and invite rust. You could seal the wood in epoxy or a **** ton of lacquer. A vinyl applique might be a better solution if going for the "woody" aesthetic.
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Very true, I have no problem getting treated wood, staining it color I want, and sealing the heck out of it. It's good food for thought before just running off and drilling it there
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07-13-2019, 12:39 PM
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#7
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Skoolie
Join Date: Mar 2017
Location: Pasadena Tx
Posts: 150
Coachwork: 1991 bluebird
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A metal sign business. I would think more along the lines of something like this. They also have an activator to age it. Should be listed with it.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000Z4DSVO...v_ov_lig_dp_it
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07-13-2019, 12:48 PM
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#8
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New Member
Join Date: Jul 2019
Posts: 4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jimburke77502
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Yes I know lol I mount designs on wood, plus the marketing name of Farmhouse, want to do a certain look. Plus, it would just stand out. I DID think of doing the copper metal look too
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07-13-2019, 12:48 PM
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#9
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Bus Nut
Join Date: May 2019
Location: Lebanon, Indiana
Posts: 911
Year: 2000
Coachwork: Winnebago
Chassis: Ford F53
Engine: Ford Triton V-10
Rated Cap: currently 2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rochey6957
My worry would be that it would hold moisture against the sheet metal and invite rust. You could seal the wood in epoxy or a **** ton of lacquer. A vinyl applique might be a better solution if going for the "woody" aesthetic.
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Precisely and this is why I asked. I have a project idea in mind called Project Griswold which is a green bus with 80s faux woodgrain paneling but I've determined that a vinyl applique is the easiest way to achieve the desired appearance without inviting other issues.
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07-13-2019, 01:03 PM
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#10
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Bus Geek
Join Date: Sep 2018
Posts: 2,831
Year: 2007
Coachwork: Thomas Built
Chassis: Minotour
Engine: Chevy Express 3500 6.6l
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rochey6957
My worry would be that it would hold moisture against the sheet metal and invite rust. You could seal the wood in epoxy or a **** ton of lacquer. A vinyl applique might be a better solution if going for the "woody" aesthetic.
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Wagon Queen Family Truckster
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07-13-2019, 01:21 PM
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#11
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Bus Nut
Join Date: May 2019
Location: Lebanon, Indiana
Posts: 911
Year: 2000
Coachwork: Winnebago
Chassis: Ford F53
Engine: Ford Triton V-10
Rated Cap: currently 2
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Yup, that's Project Griswold!
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07-13-2019, 01:50 PM
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#12
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Bus Geek
Join Date: Sep 2014
Location: Eustis FLORIDA
Posts: 23,764
Year: 1999
Coachwork: Thomas
Chassis: Freighliner FS65
Engine: Cat 3126
Rated Cap: 15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Danjo
Wagon Queen Family Truckster
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I would LOVE a family truckster!
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07-13-2019, 02:29 PM
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#13
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Traveling
Join Date: Sep 2013
Location: Virginia
Posts: 2,302
Year: None
Coachwork: None
Chassis: None
Engine: None
Rated Cap: None
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Rochey beat me to it... Would definitely hold moisture against the body and cause rust / rot. One thing that might help with this is to coat the areas in question with Kool-Seal before mounting the cedar, and use corrosion-resistant screws. If you can keep rust and rot at bay, I think it would be a pretty cool look. Definitely unique.
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07-13-2019, 04:04 PM
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#14
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Bus Geek
Join Date: Sep 2018
Posts: 2,831
Year: 2007
Coachwork: Thomas Built
Chassis: Minotour
Engine: Chevy Express 3500 6.6l
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Knife makers use a polymer product to stabilize wood used to make handles. It’s done in a vacuum to assure complete saturation. But in this instance maybe encapsulation is adequate. After it’s completely sealed then it could be glued and screwed to the surface of the bus.
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07-13-2019, 04:34 PM
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#15
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Skoolie
Join Date: May 2019
Location: Fresnope, CA
Posts: 154
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I'd be inclined to use a wrap, just cuz it's easy and unlimited design possibilities.
https://scontent-lga3-1.cdninstagram...ninstagram.com
__________________
"Reality is that which, when you stop believing in it, doesn't go away" - Phillip K. Dick
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07-13-2019, 04:40 PM
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#16
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Bus Geek
Join Date: Sep 2018
Posts: 2,831
Year: 2007
Coachwork: Thomas Built
Chassis: Minotour
Engine: Chevy Express 3500 6.6l
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Use standoffs (nuts and washers) to hold the wood away from the surface.
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07-13-2019, 06:32 PM
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#17
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Bus Crazy
Join Date: Jun 2016
Location: N.C.
Posts: 1,136
Year: 1997
Coachwork: Bluebird
Engine: DT466E
Rated Cap: 34
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I've used about 6 coats of spar varnish or spar urethane on all sides of untreated wood, with no issues (approx. 1 year on the bus, 5 years on the truck). I attached the single boards with self-tappers....on the truck, I bolted to top and bottom boards through the sheetmetal, and fastened the others together on the backside with hurricane straps.
The varnish on the truck had to be scuffed and re-applied every other year due to UV degradation.....I'm not seeing any signs of that on the urethaned bus. I had read that the new urethanes are better than varnish, and it seems to be the case.
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07-13-2019, 07:29 PM
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#18
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Bus Geek
Join Date: Jan 2019
Location: Philadelphia
Posts: 6,995
Year: 2003
Coachwork: International
Chassis: CE 300
Engine: DT466e
Rated Cap: 65C-43A
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Quote:
Originally Posted by plfking
I've used about 6 coats of spar varnish or spar urethane on all sides of untreated wood, with no issues (approx. 1 year on the bus, 5 years on the truck). I attached the single boards with self-tappers....on the truck, I bolted to top and bottom boards through the sheetmetal, and fastened the others together on the backside with hurricane straps.
The varnish on the truck had to be scuffed and re-applied every other year due to UV degradation.....I'm not seeing any signs of that on the urethaned bus. I had read that the new urethanes are better than varnish, and it seems to be the case.
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I'm not going to actually do it (because of the extra difficulty of dealing with wood and the fact that I got into this to learn metal fabrication) but your bus made me do a hard rethink. The wood really looks good on your bus.
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07-13-2019, 10:14 PM
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#19
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Bus Crazy
Join Date: Oct 2017
Location: E Central Tejas
Posts: 2,094
Year: 1998
Coachwork: Thomas
Chassis: IH 3800, 8 window
Engine: T444E w/ Spicer 5-speed MT
Rated Cap: I prefer broad-brims hats
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Wow! I've got wood!
And I believe if I installed narrow shims between the hull and the planks, it wood negate any rust issues, as water'd run off &/or evaporate just as quickly as a non-Woody bus.
Super spar it first, natch.
__________________
Those who say that it cannot be done should not interrupt the people doing it.
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07-13-2019, 11:58 PM
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#20
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Bus Geek
Join Date: Sep 2015
Posts: 3,856
Year: 2002
Coachwork: Thomas Built Bus
Chassis: Freightliner FS65
Engine: Caterpillar 3126E Diesel
Rated Cap: 71 Passenger- 30,000 lbs.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HazMatt
Wow! I've got wood!
And I believe if I installed narrow shims between the hull and the planks, it wood negate any rust issues, as water'd run off &/or evaporate just as quickly as a non-Woody bus.
Super spar it first, natch.
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I suppose it all depends on the amount of offset between the metal and wood and the protection the gap has from debris. Our bus seems to collect tree "gunk" in th strangest of places due to water running off the roof and down the sides.
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