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Old 07-29-2021, 06:32 PM   #1
Mini-Skoolie
 
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Wood Side Wall Framing

Greetings, I did a site search for how bus converters are using wood to create a frame for the interior siding. I have the seat attachment member in place. How do I add wood to the bus frame so the siding sits even with the l shaped member, not adding wood above and below. This bar is causing me stress! Thoughts, ideas needed. Thanks!

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Old 07-29-2021, 09:50 PM   #2
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Huh? Please re-phrase your question.
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Old 07-30-2021, 06:22 PM   #3
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Post Help with wall framing

The structural seat attachment bar is preventing me from running vertical wood frame members from the windows to the floor. https://photos.app.goo.gl/4X1ro7tNHfcHG61y6
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Old 07-30-2021, 06:51 PM   #4
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Can't you run vertical wood members down to the top of the chair rail (that's what that bar is generally called) and then different pieces of wood from the bottom of the chair rail to the floor? You said "not adding wood above and below" the chair rail in your original post, but that's exactly what would solve your problem here.
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Old 07-30-2021, 07:02 PM   #5
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Still confused.


Are you trying to avoid building out to the edge of that rail for the seat attachments?


We plan to frame out to that level and then fill with insulation and attach the siding over it.


You could also run stringers lengthwise, screwing into the hat channels and using the stringers for wall panel attachments. Stringers could build it out to the plane of the seat attach rail or be of thinner material. It's all a matter of builders choice.
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Old 07-30-2021, 08:39 PM   #6
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Run a 2x2 horizontally just below the window then run 2x2 down each hat channel to the top of the chair rail and then a small piece just under the chair rail. Use Tek wood to metal screws
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Old 07-31-2021, 06:02 AM   #7
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Great Replies

Thanks all for your ideas. I have a much better idea how to move ahead. As MG and MS said, two pieces are needed above and below chair rail attached to “hat channel”. Then between channels along the chair rail, add a cross member which MS said “Stringers could build it out to the plane of the seat attach rail or be of thinner material. It's all a matter of builders choice.” Two pieces at top and bottom connected to vertical pieces now creates attachment points for interior finish, probably shiplap. Purchased wood, screws, and glue yesterday; ready to move on! I’ll add updates on this thread of my progress.
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Old 07-31-2021, 11:22 AM   #8
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If you run 2x2's down to the chair rail on the front of each rib, and then a horizontal 2x2 on the floor, you would have the lower attachment area. The chair rail is only 8" or so. This would save cutting and installing about 30 short pieces.
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Old 07-31-2021, 11:51 AM   #9
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Good idea

I like this idea too, oM. I'm considering running the shiplap vertically so, there should be enough board at the bottom, middle and top to omit those bottom pieces. Though, it would mean covering each hat channel with siding. I'll give it some serious thought as I don't have shop tools, only hand power tools.
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Old 07-31-2021, 03:57 PM   #10
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Where in New England are you. Family in Ct. and Me.
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Old 07-31-2021, 04:35 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by o1marc View Post
If you run 2x2's down to the chair rail on the front of each rib, and then a horizontal 2x2 on the floor, you would have the lower attachment area. The chair rail is only 8" or so. This would save cutting and installing about 30 short pieces.

Another option is to put horizontal runs on top of the chair rail and on the floor, then stop the wall in the center of the piece on top of the chair rail and run another wall piece from the floor up to that point. This would leave a void for running wire, pipe, hoses, etc.
Be sure to plan a place to install all these things that you can access down the road if need be. You never know when something will fail OR you'll want to add an electrical circuit, a run of pex, or something else.
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Old 08-01-2021, 06:20 PM   #12
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Where in New England are you. Family in Ct. and Me.
I'm in Boston. DM me if you want.
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Old 08-01-2021, 06:24 PM   #13
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Where in New England are you. Family in Ct. and Me.
Boston, MA. DM if you want.
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Old 08-01-2021, 06:34 PM   #14
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Photo of First Bay

Greetings All, and thanks for the additional idea HS. This is where things are as of today. I decided to stop the hat channel member at the edge of the chair rail, not go over it. The cross members don't run on top of the rail, but just above.This now has top middle and bottom boards, enough surface for adding the finish layer.

https://photos.app.goo.gl/cdgqtU59cVpxsEvg8
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Old 08-01-2021, 07:05 PM   #15
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One thing to consider when designing your framing is how you might remove and replace windows if they happen to get broken (I've managed to break three of mine so far so the subject is dear to my heart). Bus windows can only be removed from the inside, so you might want to have the top piece (or sill) of your framing be one long piece that is screwed down onto the vertical pieces from above. This might allow you to remove just that piece and still get the window out, without having to dismantle your entire wall.
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Old 08-01-2021, 07:48 PM   #16
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Old 08-09-2021, 02:44 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by musigenesis View Post
One thing to consider when designing your framing is how you might remove and replace windows if they happen to get broken (I've managed to break three of mine so far so the subject is dear to my heart). Bus windows can only be removed from the inside, so you might want to have the top piece (or sill) of your framing be one long piece that is screwed down onto the vertical pieces from above. This might allow you to remove just that piece and still get the window out, without having to dismantle your entire wall.

MG, thanks for your reply. I'll have to consider this feature at a later date, as I already installed my 2x2 s against the hat channels in line with the metal lip below the window. I would have to re-cut the 2x2s to allow for a removable ledge that you describe. I can see the problem that you describe, because I would have to remove both 2x2s and the upper stringer to access the broken window. Maybe this thread can be helpful to someone else considering this amount of framing. I'm such a newbie
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Old 08-09-2021, 02:46 PM   #18
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Originally Posted by o1marc View Post
Forget everything I said, I keep forgetting Savana's are not a school bus
Om, actually the Michael Corbeil bus company built their mini and wheelchair busses on GMC Savana brand vans. I'm using one of your suggestions in my build.
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Old 08-09-2021, 03:33 PM   #19
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Maybe this thread can be helpful to someone else considering this amount of framing. I'm such a newbie
I wouldn't worry about it. I think I might be the only person who designed his wall framing to be easily disassembled to allow the windows to come out, and I also seem to be the only person who breaks his windows on a regular basis.
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Old 08-13-2021, 06:19 PM   #20
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Progress on wall framing

I made good progress with exterior wall framing. See picture below.

https://photos.app.goo.gl/841vXAT8F9P8ukVcA
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