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Old 03-30-2018, 08:20 PM   #21
Bus Crazy
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fp42583 View Post
It was running good. I had driven from FL the day before. One problem I was having was after I had been on the road for a while once I slowed down for a turn it would stall and was hard to get going again.
The day it broke down I noticed the oil pressure gauge dropping so I pulled over and it cut off then I couldnít get it started again. It wasnít running hot at all. It was running great then all of a sudden the oil pressure kept getting lower and lower. No loud noises, no banging or knocking, no steam.
This tells me a lot right here. The stalling for a turn, and difficulty getting moving again could be a somewhat simple fuel issue.

The decreasing oil pressure has 4 possible causes. (1) You are getting a false reading due to a failing gauge or sending unit, or (2) the oil pressure is due to the oil being a low viscosity either by temperature or dilution, or (3 ) the oil pump is worn out, or (4) engine bearing clearances have worn enough to allow oil to bypass its usual path. Usually oil pressure is read before it reaches the bearing pathways, but it needs a "path of resistance" to build up pressure in the first place. If there is indeed metal flakes in the oil filter, I would begin to suspect a failed oil pump. If the compression and bearings are still good, this is a fix that does not require removal and replacement of the engine (A couple hundred in parts and whatever labor ends up being).

I am inclined to agree that whatever shop it is at, you should take it elsewhere for a second opinion. Feel free to PM me as I live in the region.

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Old 03-30-2018, 10:07 PM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fp42583 View Post
It was running good. I had driven from FL the day before. One problem I was having was after I had been on the road for a while once I slowed down for a turn it would stall and was hard to get going again.
The day it broke down I noticed the oil pressure gauge dropping so I pulled over and it cut off then I couldnít get it started again. It wasnít running hot at all. It was running great then all of a sudden the oil pressure kept getting lower and lower. No loud noises, no banging or knocking, no steam.
I'm no mechanic, heck I'm not even a real stuntman but don't tell anyone. I think if an engine fails and someone's around it makes a noise.

I broke a (place major engine component here) in my Oldsmobile. SOB still started and ran! It did not sound happy at all though. Felt like a couple of guys hammering a railroad tie in the engine bay and smelled like burning metal. I'm cosigning with the above opinions of the shop diagnosis. You would have known if it was a broken (place major engine component here). Sounds like you are working on a rescue mission, good luck.
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Old 03-30-2018, 10:33 PM   #23
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hay there is a guy on youtube by the name campervan kevin he is from athens ga. and his brother in law is a mechanic and kevin is a good honest guy he may be able to tell you an honest place to take your bus he is a good guy if he can help he will
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Old 03-30-2018, 10:33 PM   #24
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Thank you so much for all of the info all of you have told me. Please feel free to continue I need the expertise. I have made the decision to keep my bus and have it towed to the company that I was headed too since I was only 250 miles away. They will assist me with finding a motor and mechanics that they trust so that will be very nice!! Iím not feeling too good about the place it is sitting at now after reading the horror stories. Iím starting to question everything they have said now.
So thank you and keep providing info, because I need it!!


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Old 03-30-2018, 10:43 PM   #25
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Originally Posted by fp42583 View Post
Thank you so much for all of the info all of you have told me. Please feel free to continue I need the expertise. I have made the decision to keep my bus and have it towed to the company that I was headed too since I was only 250 miles away. They will assist me with finding a motor and mechanics that they trust so that will be very nice!! Iím not feeling too good about the place it is sitting at now after reading the horror stories. Iím starting to question everything they have said now.
So thank you and keep providing info, because I need it!!


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I was just on craigslist in georgia and there is a 454 with 1500 original miles for 1200
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Old 03-30-2018, 10:46 PM   #26
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hay there is a guy on youtube by the name campervan kevin he is from athens ga. and his brother in law is a mechanic and kevin is a good honest guy he may be able to tell you an honest place to take your bus he is a good guy if he can help he will


Thank you, I will check him out


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Old 03-30-2018, 10:51 PM   #27
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I was just on craigslist in georgia and there is a 454 with 1500 original miles for 1200


Is this the one you saw?
1983 454 MOTOR N TRANS - $1500 and there are 4 pics?


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Old 03-31-2018, 07:20 AM   #28
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I'm no mechanic, heck I'm not even a real stuntman but don't tell anyone. I think if an engine fails and someone's around it makes a noise.

I broke a (place major engine component here) in my Oldsmobile. SOB still started and ran! It did not sound happy at all though. Felt like a couple of guys hammering a railroad tie in the engine bay and smelled like burning metal. I'm cosigning with the above opinions of the shop diagnosis. You would have known if it was a broken (place major engine component here). Sounds like you are working on a rescue mission, good luck.
If the motor just spun a bearing it can run quiet and cool until it comes apart. When I was a teenager I had a pinto I got cheap because the motor needed rebuilt. 10psi oil pressure when started and drop more as it warmed up. It had a very slight knock but ran fine. I drove that thing for a year before I Broke something in the transmission.
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Old 03-31-2018, 09:05 AM   #29
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ive worked on a lot of blown up engines over the years.. the responses here thus far are pretty spot on.

at this point if theres any time at all getting a blackstone labs test of the oil might be a good idea.. they will tell you if theres metal and what metal it is in the oil..

ive seen the opil pump on a chevy eat itself up. ive also see nthe distributor gear eat itself up causing excessive metal in the oil filter..

the only real way to tell if theres a spun bearing is to drop the pan and pull the caps.. Rods will almost always knockl loudly if the bearing inserts get excessive clearance.. Mains will make a "scratchety" sound if they freeze against the crank and spin.. if they are just coming apart wit hexcessive clearance, mains will not necessarily get noisy..

regardless you likely havent destroyed the Block.. its really rare for a Big block chevy that still starts and runs to have destroyed its block.. which means rebuildable.. generally much less cost than a new crate motor.

-Christopher
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Old 03-31-2018, 10:55 AM   #30
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The bus is currently at a Yancey Truck Center, probably one of the most expensive options available. The swap to a 454 is a wise one, much more plentiful and capable engine for the bus and motorhomes if going with gas.
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Old 03-31-2018, 01:01 PM   #31
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I’m fine with going with a 454 . The issue is I don’t know how to rebuild a motor so I need to buy a crate engine. I just need to figure out which one to buy.
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Old 03-31-2018, 02:20 PM   #32
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I dont klnow much about these guys. but they may be a better bet than the likes of Jegs or Summit. (who are more performance oriented)..

Motorhome Remanufactured Engines

-Christopher
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Old 03-31-2018, 02:29 PM   #33
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one of the things you need to do is see if you can get the block ID off of your engine.. or possiblty using the VIN / body number, call bluebird and see if they happen to know the engine serial number that was in that bus..

if your bus has air brakes the engine may very well have different provisions for the compressor than a standard 427... same with swapping to a 454.. should be close but need ot match the block / heads/ etc to the right crate motor..

my guess is thats a 427 Tall deck or 'HD' motor as they call them sometimes.. these are different than the motors you'll find in the consumer vehicles.. mainly from a standpoint of how accessories / intake, etc bolt onto it.. and its important to get that right the first time.
-Christopher
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Old 03-31-2018, 07:44 PM   #34
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454 athens georgia

Quote:
Originally Posted by fp42583 View Post
Is this the one you saw?
1983 454 MOTOR N TRANS - $1500 and there are 4 pics?


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https://atlanta.craigslist.org/sat/c...541322697.html
https://greenville.craigslist.org/bo...537883310.html
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Old 03-31-2018, 08:07 PM   #35
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Thank you!!


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Old 03-31-2018, 08:07 PM   #36
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Originally Posted by cadillackid View Post
I dont klnow much about these guys. but they may be a better bet than the likes of Jegs or Summit. (who are more performance oriented)..

Motorhome Remanufactured Engines

-Christopher


Thank you! I will check them out


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Old 03-31-2018, 08:25 PM   #37
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engine

Quote:
Originally Posted by fp42583 View Post
Iím fine with going with a 454 . The issue is I donít know how to rebuild a motor so I need to buy a crate engine. I just need to figure out which one to buy.

like chris said you would probably wont a tall deck motor for a commercial truck
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Old 04-02-2018, 10:03 AM   #38
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like chris said you would probably wont a tall deck motor for a commercial truck
I agree.

1- tall deck engine (that it likely has) is a torque monster made to pull all day long. Not a revving hot rod type engine.

2- and as said....... everything will fit up. Because there are diffs.

The tall deck 366 & 427 was commonly used in school buses, dump trucks, flat bed trucks, grain trucks. Shouldn't be too hard to find one.

Too bad it's not stuck around me. I'd dig you up an engine and swap it out without raping you. Not that hard swapping out a bus engine if you have the place & a big enough motor puller. (and I do).

Best of luck to ya. Hope it works out to have a happy ending.
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Old 04-08-2018, 12:04 PM   #39
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No longer for sale due to the positive responses.
Thank you so much!
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Old 04-08-2018, 12:48 PM   #40
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No longer for sale due to the positive responses.
Thank you so much!
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