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Old 06-12-2024, 09:09 AM   #1
Mini-Skoolie
 
Join Date: Jan 2018
Location: Carolina
Posts: 14
Year: 1997
Coachwork: Thomas
Engine: International DT466E
Rated Cap: 30 foot cabin
Fully converted $29K. Build by Licensed Contractor, Solar

Price Drop! Located in Asheville NC. $29,700 . Build by Licensed Contractor
Boondocker ready. Offgrid solar.

This is a fully converted off-grid skoolie RV ready to ride. 30 foot cabin (full size) Great tires, new starter batteries, 450amp hour off grid solar, Midnite mppt charge controller, Samlex 2200 watt inverter, Takagi instant water heater, full size soaker tub with fold down lid for dual purpose space (can be couch or bed for small person with some foam), hammock mount points, 4 burner propane stove, 42 Gallon fresh water tank, 42 Gallon grey water tank, Composting toilet, Full bed- folds up, sleeper couch with storage. Onboard propane tank, propane furnace, full size double basin sink, Flatscreen TV mounted on swivel for office mode or movie mode. Premium surround sound system with four 6x9 speakers and a 10" subwoofer, Spray foam underneath, spray foam in ceiling, rigid foam wall insulation. One wall of windows are covered and walled over for warmth. Snap on insulated curtains for every window. Can sleep 4 adults and one child if you get a foam for over the tub.
Built by professional licensed contractor. All systems work. 240k MILES ON A LEGENDARY DIESEL ENGINE-THE INTERNATIONAL DT466.

Titled as an RV already.

Full Album in Imgur-
https://imgur.com/a/RzKTUiE
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Old 06-14-2024, 06:19 AM   #2
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Posts: 8
Tough to follow the build based off the pictures. Do you have a video walkthrough by chance?
How much solar is on the roof? Any AC or heat systems?
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Old 06-17-2024, 09:44 AM   #3
Mini-Skoolie
 
Join Date: Jan 2018
Location: Carolina
Posts: 14
Year: 1997
Coachwork: Thomas
Engine: International DT466E
Rated Cap: 30 foot cabin
Smile Solar update:

Three panels on the roof that are 310 watts each for a total of 630 watts.

There is a forced air vented propane furnace.

I don't have a video but the layout from the entrance is:
Left side is a 4 burner propane stove, right side is kitchen countertop/flex space standing desk with flatscreen tv. Next is left side is empty space for storage ( add what you need-etc/woodstove/fridge), Right side is double basin stainless sink.
Next is left side is a storage couch with the furnace inside of it and right side is a "CUB"= Couch plus tub!. The full size jacuzzi brand tub has a lid on it that folds down when not in use to turn into a flex space- could be storage, couch, childs bed. Now it is just a wooden lid.

Next is dual matching closets on the left and right. The left has a steel safe and the right has a composting toilet. There is a curtain that hangs between the two closets to provide a little privacy for the back bedroom which has a murphy style fold down bed and some storage cubbies. When the bed is folded up there is ample storage to haul items. I have a ramp that keys in to the rear bumper and I have hauled my motorcycle in the back.
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Old 06-17-2024, 09:44 AM   #4
Mini-Skoolie
 
Join Date: Jan 2018
Location: Carolina
Posts: 14
Year: 1997
Coachwork: Thomas
Engine: International DT466E
Rated Cap: 30 foot cabin
(No AC system)
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Old 07-05-2024, 08:34 PM   #5
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Posts: 4
The windows, do you mean they were not removed? What do you mean by "walled over"? I'm concerned if they're still there and were to break I'd have a huge water/mold problem on my hands.
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Old 07-08-2024, 09:20 AM   #6
Mini-Skoolie
 
Join Date: Jan 2018
Location: Carolina
Posts: 14
Year: 1997
Coachwork: Thomas
Engine: International DT466E
Rated Cap: 30 foot cabin
Hi WarningWord,
Re-Windows- You can see them from the outside so you can monitor the condition of them. So They are much like any other section of the wall or roof of a structure. If some damage happens, you see it and fix it.
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Old 07-08-2024, 02:48 PM   #7
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Join Date: Oct 2020
Location: Florida
Posts: 1,589
Coachwork: Integrated Coach Corp.
Chassis: RE-300 42ft
Engine: 466ci
Rated Cap: 90
RVIA Fail: Licensed Contractor Walled Over Windows

Quote:
Originally Posted by WarningWordWindy View Post
The windows, do you mean they were not removed? What do you mean by "walled over"? I'm concerned if they're still there and were to break I'd have a huge water/mold problem on my hands.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Eli3 View Post
Hi WarningWord,
Re-Windows- You can see them from the outside so you can monitor the condition of them. So They are much like any other section of the wall or roof of a structure. If some damage happens, you see it and fix it.

Sorry to interject on your sale ad but something smells familiar.🤔

Legit questions asked.
Responses offered are vague.

Were the factory windows seals removed and replaced?
Yes or No

Factory bus window seals will succumb to leaks. Made from rubber, installed at high speed, they deteriorate very quickly. Butyl replacement seals cost more, but form a waterproof seal that lasts decades.


You wrote that the 'licensed contractor' walled over the windows and "If some damage happens, you see it and fix it." In my experience, bus windows can only be (easily) removed from the interior.
Are the windows accessible from the interior? ICan we actually inspect for possible damage, between the wall & window?


Do you already have water intrusion and/or mold, mildew or mushrooms in the space between the walls and windows How might one verify the condition or even bear witness to that place?


Click on the photos above to read more about the buses in the photos.
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Old 07-08-2024, 07:04 PM   #8
Bus Crazy
 
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Join Date: Jun 2023
Location: South Carolina
Posts: 1,072
Year: 1995
Coachwork: Thomas
Chassis: International 3800
Engine: T444E
Rated Cap: 29
Nice, a Mushroom growing feature. You could grow mushrooms along your wall and pick them as you get hungry...
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Old 07-09-2024, 08:12 PM   #9
Mini-Skoolie
 
Join Date: Jan 2018
Location: Carolina
Posts: 14
Year: 1997
Coachwork: Thomas
Engine: International DT466E
Rated Cap: 30 foot cabin
DeMac,
There are no mushrooms in my bus so I would appreciate it if you remove those pictures as they as well as your comments are unnecessary.

My answer is not BS and that is rude of you to imply that. If you don't like the build then you're free to move along. Pro tip: you don't have to buy it so your concern that you would have moisture problems is misplaced.
If you want to see if there is a moisture issue, you can look in the window duh. BTW there isn't.
As far as your prediction that they will leak... I predict that your bus will leak. Lol. Everything falls apart and if it does you just fix it. Quit crying on my thread.

Since you're such an expert, you're free to go build your own bus exactly how you want it.
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Old 07-09-2024, 08:42 PM   #10
Mini-Skoolie
 
Join Date: Jan 2018
Location: Carolina
Posts: 14
Year: 1997
Coachwork: Thomas
Engine: International DT466E
Rated Cap: 30 foot cabin
Smile

WarningWord.
All the windows are still installed on the bus. I left them there in case a future owner wanted more light. And if they leaked (which they're not) you can seal them up from the exterior with caulking or sheet metal over the whole area, or remove them.

In building science a metal wall and a glass window are functioning much the same way in the wall system. The major thing to watch out for in any skoolie build is condensation as cooking, showering, breathing, sweating etc release water vapor. Both the metal and the glass in this case would be susceptible to condensation if they weren't insulated properly.
That is why my bus has (in different areas) spray foam, rigid foam and double bubble radiant barrier. This pushes the "line" where the temperature change from cold to warm happens inwards which inhibits condensation inside the wall.
I would highly recommend any skoolie builders take water vapor into account -specific to your climate and usage-
For example DeMac installed wooden plates directly against the metal ceiling and floor of his bus. They will mold and cause air quality issues because of the condensation against the metal. ...unless he lives in the desert and the indoor temperature is always the same as the outdoor temperature.
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Old 07-09-2024, 09:04 PM   #11
Bus Crazy
 
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Join Date: Oct 2020
Location: Florida
Posts: 1,589
Coachwork: Integrated Coach Corp.
Chassis: RE-300 42ft
Engine: 466ci
Rated Cap: 90
Motivated Buyer

Quote:
Originally Posted by Eli3 View Post
DeMac,
Unfortunately you put wood against metal. Because the indoor temperature will often be different than the outdoor temperature and metal is vapor impermeable you will get condensation on it which will wet the wood. This will eventually lead to mold. I have major concerns about mold and air quality in this build.
A better way to do this would be to insulate with spray foam or polyiso against the metal roof, then attach the wood plates. Same problem on the floor. You could have used a sill sealer or rubber strip down there beneath your bottom plates at least.


Are you planning to spray foam underneath the bus?
---------------------------------------

I'm quite interested in purchasing your bus. Just want.to verify the facts. Did the licensed contractor do work which might pass an RVIA inspection? The contractor may likely have been misdirected or misinformed. The more you write, the more a i know. For me, it needs to pass an inspection.

Your condensation theory is severely flawed. Warm, condensed air (propane, especially) carries in the moisture, it doesn't magical appear where there is no air at all. Plenty of warm moist air here in Florida. That's why the AC is such a big deal. It acts as a dehumidifier, too. The moisture is collected from the air at the condensing pan and drips outside. Do you still have the factory AC units?

Cold, Exposed metal AND warm moist air (humidity via Convection). If we alter one part of the equation we may experience the reverse effect. Cold air onto a hot steel yeilds no moisture. Gotta cool the steel first.

We're all sweat-pros, down in the swamp. The condensation collects on the outside here, hot steel & cold AC inside, wet windows outside. Cold, unopened beer, in the Florida shade will sweat in a minute. Hot beer stays dry.

Naturally warm humid Florida air frequently leaks in, around the windows & doors, allowing a bit of constant Convection, as the warm air cools inside, it cannot hold the water and H2O Condensates onto any cool surfaces, often becoming trapped. Ie bad window seals = wet inside, even when it hasnt rained. Visit a well air-conditioned trailer home or go RV camping with AC. (don't touch a tent at night, will pull through).

A dirty or bad seal is often the cause of frost inside our freezers. Leave the fridge door cracked for a while, gap gets wet. No metal or wood touching, there. Convection causes condensation.
What was done to seal the air gaps, around the windows?


For your sill plates, were the 2x4s pre-coated with 2 coats of exterior primer? Maybe the builder applied a heavy bead of Dynatron550. Then, using a steel blank, spread the bead evenly, between the lines & filled the creases, before attaching the wood with screws, up from below? I'm shopping for good seals. Cool & dry.

In your sale ad, you claim that there is no air space between the interior walls and windows. So, per your "science, the windows & gap have been spray foamed prior to attaching the interior framing.... is that true? What lies in the space in between? Do you have photos of the spray foam being applied, before attaching the interior walls?
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