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Old 02-17-2020, 08:06 AM   #21
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Heres how horrible the timing cover job is-


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Old 02-17-2020, 11:03 AM   #22
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Have you checked the engine oil cooler? I would that before I do anything .
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Old 02-17-2020, 11:37 AM   #23
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How do I check the oil cooler?
In talking to a mechanic in Montana who’s built “100’s” or these. He told me to throw some heavy weight in it, and go for the 400 mile drive.
He’s confident it’s the sleeve.
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Old 02-17-2020, 12:11 PM   #24
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Charlie,
This is a mechanical dt466. I don't think they had the front cover leak issues like the dt466e did for a few years.

If it was ever overheated, I'd go with liner o-rings.

You seem somewhat handy if you had the wherewithal to pull the pan to check for coolant leaks. I'd throw a liner kit in it and run it. Hopefully it has highway gearing, air ride, and other nice options. If it's just a run of the mill bus, I wouldn't have messed with it.
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Old 02-17-2020, 12:21 PM   #25
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Originally Posted by Booyah45828 View Post
Charlie,
This is a mechanical dt466. I don't think they had the front cover leak issues like the dt466e did for a few years.

If it was ever overheated, I'd go with liner o-rings.

You seem somewhat handy if you had the wherewithal to pull the pan to check for coolant leaks. I'd throw a liner kit in it and run it. Hopefully it has highway gearing, air ride, and other nice options. If it's just a run of the mill bus, I wouldn't have messed with it.
Its an in-between. If you look at the valve cover you'll see its a NGD "next generation diesel".
I'm not sure if the timing covers on those are the newer E type covers or the older mechanical type.
A mechanical DT can still have a timing cover failure. They're just far less common.
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Old 02-17-2020, 01:30 PM   #26
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Charlie,
This is a mechanical dt466. I don't think they had the front cover leak issues like the dt466e did for a few years.

If it was ever overheated, I'd go with liner o-rings.

You seem somewhat handy if you had the wherewithal to pull the pan to check for coolant leaks. I'd throw a liner kit in it and run it. Hopefully it has highway gearing, air ride, and other nice options. If it's just a run of the mill bus, I wouldn't have messed with it.
Not sure if it was overheated. I did pull the pan. If you read back it shows pictures of where leak was.

It’s a pretty basic bus, but has a manual spicer transmission, so gearing wise I’m not worried about it.
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Old 02-17-2020, 03:24 PM   #27
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If the first thing I have to do is rebuild an engine after purchase I wouldn't take it if it was free. You can find a good bus for less than the cost and aggravation of having to start with a rebuild. Milky oil, I'm gone, no need to look further.
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Old 02-17-2020, 04:26 PM   #28
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If the first thing I have to do is rebuild an engine after purchase I wouldn't take it if it was free. You can find a good bus for less than the cost and aggravation of having to start with a rebuild. Milky oil, I'm gone, no need to look further.
Welp. I’m already in it. At this point all I ask is that everybody prays for me. I can do all the work myself, and have considered a whole new motor, I’m fairly confident I can get it to Montana if I baby it, and once I’m there it’s game on.

Again, pray for me.
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Old 02-17-2020, 04:31 PM   #29
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Have fun! You will learn a lot no doubt about it. Let us know how it goes to
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Old 02-17-2020, 04:54 PM   #30
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Welp. I’m already in it. At this point all I ask is that everybody prays for me. I can do all the work myself, and have considered a whole new motor, I’m fairly confident I can get it to Montana if I baby it, and once I’m there it’s game on.

Again, pray for me.
I don't pray so I'll just wish you well.

FWIW I've never seen anyone actually heed warnings when asking about a problematic bus being purchased.
Seems most folks come here for assurance that their choice is a good one. I think you've made a BIG job out of buying a cheap used school bus.
But I do wish you well. The manual transmission is cool.
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Old 02-17-2020, 05:14 PM   #31
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What did you end up paying for it?
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Old 02-17-2020, 06:26 PM   #32
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I ended up paying 800 to the guy, but spent 200 on tools I didn’t have (since I’m on the road) so I’m in it about 1000 bucks so far. Planning on two oil changes on the way to Montana, to be safe, so add another 300 and I’ll be in for 1300 plus fuel. Rebuild kit looking around 2-2500 so I’ll be in total for 3800 plus my time (which I’m laid off until may). That’s the financial spread right now.
I have access to a full machine/weld/mechanic shop once I get it to Montana. As well as our company mechanics. Shop manager was super excited and measured a spot for me to pull it in late next week.

A lot of work? No doubt.
At least when I’m done I can tell everyone I actually BUILT the bus.
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Old 02-17-2020, 06:28 PM   #33
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How do I check the oil cooler?
In talking to a mechanic in Montana who’s built “100’s” or these. He told me to throw some heavy weight in it, and go for the 400 mile drive.
He’s confident it’s the sleeve.
It could be the sleeve. Then it would be an o ring on the sleeve, and that may be all it needs, not a full rebuild.

The oil cooler, put a pressure tester on the radiator , then you would have to look where the oil returns to the sump (most likely with the pan off) and see if antifreeze is leaking.

Depending on how the water fitting on the cooler are set you may be able to bench test it. That is what I do for bigger cummins or Cat engines.

Factory Service manual will be your best friend.
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Old 02-17-2020, 06:32 PM   #34
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I ended up paying 800 to the guy, but spent 200 on tools I didn’t have (since I’m on the road) so I’m in it about 1000 bucks so far. Planning on two oil changes on the way to Montana, to be safe, so add another 300 and I’ll be in for 1300 plus fuel. Rebuild kit looking around 2-2500 so I’ll be in total for 3800 plus my time (which I’m laid off until may). That’s the financial spread right now.
I have access to a full machine/weld/mechanic shop once I get it to Montana. As well as our company mechanics. Shop manager was super excited and measured a spot for me to pull it in late next week.

A lot of work? No doubt.
At least when I’m done I can tell everyone I actually BUILT the bus.

Alright way to go!!! like your willingness to get what you want and then fix it up right whatever it takes.
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Old 02-17-2020, 09:06 PM   #35
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I ended up paying 800 to the guy, but spent 200 on tools I didn’t have (since I’m on the road) so I’m in it about 1000 bucks so far. Planning on two oil changes on the way to Montana, to be safe, so add another 300 and I’ll be in for 1300 plus fuel. Rebuild kit looking around 2-2500 so I’ll be in total for 3800 plus my time (which I’m laid off until may). That’s the financial spread right now.
I have access to a full machine/weld/mechanic shop once I get it to Montana. As well as our company mechanics. Shop manager was super excited and measured a spot for me to pull it in late next week.

A lot of work? No doubt.
At least when I’m done I can tell everyone I actually BUILT the bus.
Congratulations by the way. I kind of felt the same way. I bought my bus at a bargain. A couple hundred to get it home. Maybe a thousand now on materials, mostly dealing with rust. I'm still at a point where if I had to sell it for a loss, it's not a heart breaking amount. I've wasted more money then this in more stupid ways.
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Old 02-17-2020, 09:50 PM   #36
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It could be the sleeve. Then it would be an o ring on the sleeve, and that may be all it needs, not a full rebuild.

The oil cooler, put a pressure tester on the radiator , then you would have to look where the oil returns to the sump (most likely with the pan off) and see if antifreeze is leaking.

Depending on how the water fitting on the cooler are set you may be able to bench test it. That is what I do for bigger cummins or Cat engines.

Factory Service manual will be your best friend.
I’ve got a manual on the way. First thing I bought!
So considering it’s just a sleeve, and a ring, I’m still going in deep to get at one correct? I think it’s not a bad thought to go at that first. Maybe I’ll get lucky?

Another thing. What do you mean by oil to the sump? Oil into the coolant didn’t seam to be present. That’s how I generally ruled out the cooler but I may habe missed something?

With the oil pan off I noticed that the second from front cylinder was leaking on the outside of what I believe was the sleeve.

Thanks for the input!!! I’m scared, but optimistic to take this on. Just gotta get it home... or something like that.
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Old 02-17-2020, 09:52 PM   #37
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I've wasted more money then this in more stupid ways.
The most relevant statement to my life thus far. Hahahaha!
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Old 02-17-2020, 10:11 PM   #38
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I've wasted more money then this in more stupid ways.
I've gotta say: my bus is the stupidest and largest waste of money and time of my entire life.
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Old 02-17-2020, 10:31 PM   #39
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The next question I have, is when I drive it up, should I get a temporary plate? I think I’m gonna cover the lights, and put two signs in the back that read
“Not in service” “wish me luck”
Should give the coppers a smile huh?

And yeah. Maybe not a waste of time and money, but for sure a major expense.
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Old 02-17-2020, 11:38 PM   #40
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Yes get a temporary plate or moving permit whatever your home state requires. But no don’t put anything goofy in the windows. Just be unnoticeable.
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