WTB Dash AC for Circa 2001 Amtran/International 3800 DT466e

[GillyGoGo]

Looking to find all or parts of dash AC setup that can run on a 2000 DT466E. Bus is a 2001 but I believe the engine numbers say it is 2000.

[cadillackid]

there was no "dash A/C" sold for a 3800 as an option.. you have to build one..



I installed dash air in my 1978 loadstar. I bought various pieces and put it together...



you could start with an A/C compressor bracket similar to this:


https://www.vanderhaags.com/detailvi...?part=24676340


that will mount you up a york 210 compressor.. sanden conversion is recommended..



https://www.fleetpride.com/parts/air...BoCMy0QAvD_BwE


then use an SD7 enhanced compressor. most likely a 4805 which is ear mount 8 groove fllat belt.. wil likely drive off the main serp belt.


https://sanden.com/enhanced-compressors/


condenser.. something like this works.. https://buspartexperts.com/products/...irt-60-000-btu


or a CS2 carrier / ACT(ACTi is defunct but parts may exists).. or a CM2 MCC...


evaporator... I used one like this (retro style 36,000 BTU) in my loadstar.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/11239595494...QFG2BXNA19G9NN


then you'll need line and fittings... setup like that you can get away with #10 suction line (evap to compressor), #8 discharge line (compressor to condenser) and #6 liquid line (condenser to evap)..


I use reduced diameter barrier hose..(goodyear 4890). hard to tell you how many feet of each you'll need as it depends on where you mount the skirt condenser...





I use bugaclip / burgaflex fittings which go together very similar to the older style clip-based PEX fittings.. you use a burgaclip crim tool (easy to use).. to crimp the lines..



with fittings I really didnt know what I needed till I got all my components and could then make a shopping list for hos and fittings..


coldhose is a great resource...


https://coldhose.com/collections/BurgaClip-female-oring


https://coldhose.com/collections/reduced-barrier-hose


wiring is custom... you'll want to relay control your condenser.. I use a high power relay because of the start current. I set mine up so the condenser relay is triggered any time the inside fan is on.. this way you dont have the condenser fans going on and off every time the compressor cycles...

[GillyGoGo]

Wow thanks so much for this detailed breakdown. It helps a ton! Do you think I may be able to harvest a skirt condensor used or is that not a safe option? The condensor looks to be the largest ticket item from what I can see.

[cadillackid]

Originally Posted by GillyGoGo

Wow thanks so much for this detailed breakdown. It helps a ton! Do you think I may be able to harvest a skirt condensor used or is that not a safe option? The condensor looks to be the largest ticket item from what I can see.

you can definitely harvest one.. I harvest A/C parts all the time from people that are taking them out.. many people here seem to want their factory air gone so they yank it out... (no idea why when summers like this one are commonplace now)

[nikitis]

Originally Posted by cadillackid

you can definitely harvest one.. I harvest A/C parts all the time from people that are taking them out.. many people here seem to want their factory air gone so they yank it out... (no idea why when summers like this one are commonplace now)

Probably for the same reasons people want to cut all of their electrical out without understanding what they are doing, which is still an unknown reason at this time.

[syntaxterror]

cadillackid where is the best place to get r134a ? Some places have it but at a big price and others have it at a decent price but not in stock.

[cadillackid]

Originally Posted by syntaxterror

cadillackid where is the best place to get r134a ? Some places have it but at a big price and others have it at a decent price but not in stock.

since i have the EPA cert i typically order it in the 25 or 30 lb jugs when i need it.. (R134a is in this wierd position with the EPA.. anyone can buy the small cans at walmart, but to buy a big jug you need a Cert).. some places will sell you cylinders if you agree you are reselling them or going to use an EPA tech to work with it...



I just shop price online and pay attention to shipping costs I got a smokin deal on some a few years ago during covid and havent bought any more since.. I use an alternative in my own busses.. and really not much of that as i try to make sure my systems dont leak.. esp with a summer like we are just ending.


I probably used more this year than i have in a long time as it seemed even people who dont want A/C in their cars / busses wanted it to work.. (21-22-23 were chilly lackluster summers in ohio.. 24 made up for it (and I loved it))

[syntaxterror]

Can you get the same results if you use the small cans on a large system like a bus that requires 5lbs?

[cadillackid]

Originally Posted by nikitis

Probably for the same reasons people want to cut all of their electrical out without understanding what they are doing, which is still an unknown reason at this time.

there are reasons to pull out unused electrical esp if it involves interlocks tothe engine as something could fail and cause your bus to not start.. but to pull it out needs to be more methodical.. one at a time and make sure your bus works and shifts to gear afterwords and the brakes disengage..



as for the A/C its one thing if someone is going to never drive the bus in hot weather, but I see repeated over and over (sand thus why I started my massive A/C thread a few years ago).. people tear it out and then wonder why they are hot...



I just finished a 700+ mile road trip friday and saturday in my RedByrd... its a 6 window bus with tinted windows , white roof, and decent factory insulation(bluebird used more insulation seemingly on factory A/C busses).. when I left my house friday it was 101 actual temperature, sunny and high humidity.. Redbyrd has a 50,000 BTU A/C unit across the back and a 3 fan condenser underneath.. driving southwest into the afternoon sun i was pretty warm (not hot) in the driver seat.. even with 50K of A/C running... it works properly in fact i just checked it this week being we were in a super hot heat wave.. it's spot on with its numbers.. has extra airflow as a couple years ago i installed more powerful fan motors... it was warm enough that dash A/C in that bus with a 2nd compressor has now moved up the list of upgrades before next summer..



I wouldnt have wanted to be in there with a little 12K minisplit...



when parked in the shade idling at fuel stops or rest areas it got ice cold in the bus ..like put a sweater on cold.. but once on the road different story..and thats a 50K BTU Trans/AIR factory unit (upgraded with carrier blower assemblies)

[GillyGoGo]

Circling back to this. Do you think that mounting the condenser under the bus where the original entry steps are/were a reasonable spot? My entry door is moved/moving midship. Or would that be too close to the engine for adequate cooling.

[cadillackid]

for reference.. on the left side behind the battery box and air dryer is as close to the front as I will go.. if going on the right side id never locate anything forward of where the normal side mounted school bus fuel tank would go


on my DEV bus i have one of the units mounted behind the air dryer and it takes on quite a bit of heat.. its fairly oversized so doesnt matter but on really hot days i do notice a good difference in liquid line temperatures

[GillyGoGo]

@cadillackid

What are your opinions on systems from https://undermountac.com/ and https://www.cruisencomfortusa.com/

Wondering if something like that would keep me cool while driving and then it can double as an AC while parked.

[cadillackid]

cruise comfort has been around awhile and ive seen their units used in boats and people were happy.. they also have the highest capacity with a unit close to 20K BTU.. in a bus to cool the driver area you need 20K at least and these can double as a parked unit. these wont cool the whole bus on the road... and unless you duct it out likely wouldnt cool the whole bus parked but would definitely be a nice edition..



I dont have experience with undermount but they look similarly built. their biggest is 16K BTU..



nbeing electric you'll need to have a good size electrical system to run them.. the one cruise comfort can pull up to 95 amps at 12 volts.. so you'll need to be able to power it.. either from an auxilliary or big main alternator while driving.. and then from your batteries / solar / shore power generating 12 volts when parked...