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Old 04-14-2023, 05:27 PM   #21
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The new maxibrakes will come with a rod that's too long as you need to cut it off to fit. If your old ones are original you can measure them and cut it the same length. I would just get new clevis and pins too. Most of the manual slack adjusters had a bushing you could replace too but you probably got automatic so I don't know if they do or not. Read about maxibrakes and how dangerous they can be and NEVER undo the clamps as that's the big spring that pushes your park brake on. For fun set it about a couple of hundred feet away and shoot it with some slugs then it will be ok

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Old 04-15-2023, 08:54 AM   #22
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Truthfully,

I wouldn't touch the chambers unless you have experience replacing them. I'm not saying it can't be done, I'm just saying that unless you have the experience there is a good chance it doesn't go well. And it not going well could be catastrophic and deadly for you and others.

As far as everything breaking at once, you're more then likely just noticing it all at once. And I have no idea on the life expectancy of a chamber, I just know that I replace them frequently and that all of the ones on my bus have been replaced.
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Old 04-15-2023, 10:51 AM   #23
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Booya is right as these are just as dangerous as a split rims wheel. There is a big spring that pushes the brakes on unless you charge the 1st chamber with enough pressure to compress that spring. That is why you need air to release the park brake.its that spring that exerts 5,000 psi that has killed . That's why all the new maxi brakes have a crimped clamp and no longer bolt on. If you get someone to do it just do the whole axel not just 1
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Old 04-15-2023, 04:36 PM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Booyah45828 View Post
Truthfully,

I wouldn't touch the chambers unless you have experience replacing them. I'm not saying it can't be done, I'm just saying that unless you have the experience there is a good chance it doesn't go well. And it not going well could be catastrophic and deadly for you and others.


All-righty then! That settles it.

Thanks fellas. Life saving advice is always appreciated!!![emoji2][emoji109]

Ill follow up with my experiences and what it costs me.

[emoji3522]Dave
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Old 04-17-2023, 07:32 AM   #25
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It's not complicated or difficult, it's just that I don't feel comfortable having you doing it without having someone with experience over your shoulder watching and teaching.

You can learn a lot off watching youtube videos and having some experienced guide you through it. But some stuff just needs to be learned apprenticeship style in a controlled environment.

I mean, if you're good, you can have a 3030 chamber on and off in half an hour. So long as nothing is damaged or rusted too badly.
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Old 04-20-2023, 03:50 PM   #26
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Update. I took the bus to my mechanic. It turns out I had 3 bad ABS valves. He said 2 of them were cracked. So we replaced all 4. I haven’t seen um yet but I will when I pick up the bus.

Apparently I got the diamond studded gold plated ones bc they cost $425 EACH! The misc fittings and labor costs were more than fair price IMO.

The brake chambers were fine.
Another good reason to get an expert to look at things. I knew nothing of air brakes bf this week. Brakes are not for the inexperienced dyi guy like myself.

I’ll send pic of gold plated parts next post.

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Old 05-18-2023, 11:04 PM   #27
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Hey Truth. We have the same bus from same VA county. What does your wet tank look like. It’s between the dryer and the compressor. Right?

[emoji3522]
Sorry I didn't reply to this when you probably actually needed it. I actually no longer have that bus, I sold it to a gentleman in CT a year ago so I can work on this gem of a bus I found in South Carolina. I miss it sometimes, was very ergonomic to drive.

Anyway if memory serves right there were no tanks between the drier and compressor. The wet tank should be the first tank plumbed in after the air drier to catch left over moisture from the drier. On mine the wet tank has what appeared to a large mechanical automatic drain instead of a turn valve. All the air tanks should be mounted on either side of the fuel tank and be split chamber tanks.
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