Just got this from Allstate

[Oldyeller]

Originally Posted by HamSkoolie

That's a lot of panels! We figure half or less of the roof will be covered by panels to get 2,500W +/- using panels that are 350W ea or higher. That is up to change though as we haven't picked panels. Our lock is the 2,500W and we'll do what we need to get into the 2,200-3,000 zone.
The deck for relaxing will be 8x10 or so and the rest just built to provide an air gap as part of the insulation system.

If you recall I shortened my bus last summer. My roof is now 24' and change. The 5 solar panels I just purchased are 400 watts and are effectively 80"x40". I can get 2 in front of the roof hatch and 3 behind (80" across the roof) and not overhang anywhere. If I want to add a 6th panel on the rear there would be 8" hanging over the rear edge of the rear roof. I may make that addition which would give me 2400 watts. I don't think I want to do the same in the front due to the wind blast that would hit the 8" extending over the front edge of the roof. If I wanted to add any more wattage I'd have to find higher wattage panels and swap out the 400s cause there would be no more room on the roof.

I won't know until I live with it for a while but I'm thinking, as one person on the bus I'll be good with that wattage, at least until I start thinking A/C then I have no idea what I'd need.

[HamSkoolie]

You could also do like Juan from "Beginning from this morning" and make a double decker set up where the lower set of panels slides out on rails once you're parked. That was an awesome build but I was like NO THANKS.


We plan to have something in front of the panels to take the brunt of any low hanging branches and may also do an air dam type piece to reduce drag and turbulence. That will all be worked out once we start building out the top which is planned to be a 4 rail front to back set up and everything mounted to the rails.

[Oldyeller]

Originally Posted by HamSkoolie

You could also do like Juan from "Beginning from this morning" and make a double decker set up where the lower set of panels slides out on rails once you're parked. That was an awesome build but I was like NO THANKS.


We plan to have something in front of the panels to take the brunt of any low hanging branches and may also do an air dam type piece to reduce drag and turbulence. That will all be worked out once we start building out the top which is planned to be a 4 rail front to back set up and everything mounted to the rails.

You might want to get out the old tape measure and have a close look at your roof. I had vague thoughts of putting panels three across the roof. As soon as I stuck head through the hatch and took my first measurement of the width I knew that idea was worthless. The panels I bought are 40" wide. No matter what I do the number that'll fit doesn't change, unless, like I said, I let a couple overhang the ends of the roof. Doable on the rear, not the front.

[HamSkoolie]

Originally Posted by Oldyeller

You might want to get out the old tape measure and have a close look at your roof. I had vague thoughts of putting panels three across the roof. As soon as I stuck head through the hatch and took my first measurement of the width I knew that idea was worthless. The panels I bought are 40" wide. No matter what I do the number that'll fit doesn't change, unless, like I said, I let a couple overhang the ends of the roof. Doable on the rear, not the front.

We're working with 8' x 40' and will try to source panels that can go two across with enough for an access walkway between. That' means two 40" wide panels will leave a 16" walkway and a max of 2" (likely less) off that to account for brackets. Not a lot but enough to get between the panels for cleaning off dirt, snow, etc.

[o1marc]

I'm using 6-100w ppanels so I have the walkway down the center. Room for 6-8 more. I had bigger panels, but didn't want to lose all the access.

[Oldyeller]

Originally Posted by o1marc

I'm using 6-100w ppanels so I have the walkway down the center. Room for 6-8 more. I had bigger panels, but didn't want to lose all the access.

Yea, once I get the panels mounted all I'll be able to do is access the panels for cleaning via the roof hatch or a telescoping ladder I stole (actually a gift) from a friend. Essentially I won't have a roof anymore.

[HamSkoolie]

Originally Posted by Oldyeller

Yea, once I get the panels mounted all I'll be able to do is access the panels for cleaning via the roof hatch or a telescoping ladder I stole (actually a gift) from a friend. Essentially I won't have a roof anymore.

That's not a completely bad thing as long as they're mounted off the roof so there's air flow. It helps block direct sunlight from heating the interior of your bus through the roof.

[Oldyeller]

Originally Posted by HamSkoolie

That's not a completely bad thing as long as they're mounted off the roof so there's air flow. It helps block direct sunlight from heating the interior of your bus through the roof.

Yea, that's a balancing act isn't it? High enough not to trap hot air, not so high as to get lifted off the roof at speed.

[o1marc]

Originally Posted by o1marc

I'm using 6-100w ppanels so I have the walkway down the center. Room for 6-8 more. I had bigger panels, but didn't want to lose all the access.

Originally Posted by Oldyeller

Yea, that's a balancing act isn't it? High enough not to trap hot air, not so high as to get lifted off the roof at speed.

The roof is curved, so you couldn't lay them flat if you wanted to. An inch of clearance in the center should provide sufficient airflow.

[Oldyeller]

Originally Posted by o1marc

The roof is curved, so you couldn't lay them flat if you wanted to. An inch of clearance in the center should provide sufficient airflow.

I've been thinking about this. I'm going to pick up the superstruts I'll need to do the mounting before the panels get here. I'm going to go up on the roof and lay them where I think they should go, along the length of the roof, then I'll use one to lay across the width and check the gap at the crown. I may play with that with the thought of using 2 of the taller 12 gauge struts for the outer roof supports and then use one of the shorter (height) 14 gauge struts on the crown so I'll have 3 mounting points along the 80" length of the panels which will be across the roof. I'm not feeling good about only 2 mounting points across an 80" span.

I'm also not sure how I'm going to secure the panels to the struts. The struts have spring nuts that are more than strong enough but how to attach the aluminum frames of the panels to the strut? Superstruts have right angle pre-drilled fasteners available which are certainly strong enough but I wish I could find something that would clip over the top edge of the panel frame so I wouldn't have to depend on a bolt through the panel frame to NOT pull out.

Between adjacent panels I'm going to use square washers that will clamp down on the top of the frames with a bolt down to a spring nut in the struts and I'm sure those will hold.

[HamSkoolie]

Originally Posted by o1marc

The roof is curved, so you couldn't lay them flat if you wanted to. An inch of clearance in the center should provide sufficient airflow.

Lot's of folks have mounted them flat and it's not difficult. You simply put some rails on the roof and mount to the rails.

We'll be running four rails the length of the roof front to rear. Two just outboard or inboard to the lengthwise "bumps" on the roof and one on each outboard edge. They will be mounted through the roof ribs with risers going up to the rails which will be uni strut, square tubing, or angle iron depending on how we end up with the final plan.
On those rails will be mounted the panels, recreational deck, and some other decking material to provide a complete roof cover except at the roof access hatch. The front will have an aerodynamic damn to prevent air getting underneath while driving and probably some sort of aerodynamic screening on the sides. That will probably be in the form of a series of angled pieces that allow air flow under the surface when stationary while reducing drag while driving.

The problem being to balance airflow while stationary against drag caused by turbulent air.

[kidharris]

Originally Posted by Oldyeller

I've been thinking about this. I'm going to pick up the superstruts I'll need to do the mounting before the panels get here. I'm going to go up on the roof and lay them where I think they should go, along the length of the roof, then I'll use one to lay across the width and check the gap at the crown. I may play with that with the thought of using 2 of the taller 12 gauge struts for the outer roof supports and then use one of the shorter (height) 14 gauge struts on the crown so I'll have 3 mounting points along the 80" length of the panels which will be across the roof. I'm not feeling good about only 2 mounting points across an 80" span.

I'm also not sure how I'm going to secure the panels to the struts. The struts have spring nuts that are more than strong enough but how to attach the aluminum frames of the panels to the strut? Superstruts have right angle pre-drilled fasteners available which are certainly strong enough but I wish I could find something that would clip over the top edge of the panel frame so I wouldn't have to depend on a bolt through the panel frame to NOT pull out.

Between adjacent panels I'm going to use square washers that will clamp down on the top of the frames with a bolt down to a spring nut in the struts and I'm sure those will hold.

Something to think about... I you have 3 mounting points for a straight line across a curved surface the middle point is going to be higher than the 2 end points and try to bend the straight line....

[o1marc]

Originally Posted by HamSkoolie

Lot's of folks have mounted them flat and it's not difficult. You simply put some rails on the roof and mount to the rails.

We'll be running four rails the length of the roof front to rear. Two just outboard or inboard to the lengthwise "bumps" on the roof and one on each outboard edge. They will be mounted through the roof ribs with risers going up to the rails which will be uni strut, square tubing, or angle iron depending on how we end up with the final plan.
On those rails will be mounted the panels, recreational deck, and some other decking material to provide a complete roof cover except at the roof access hatch. The front will have an aerodynamic damn to prevent air getting underneath while driving and probably some sort of aerodynamic screening on the sides. That will probably be in the form of a series of angled pieces that allow air flow under the surface when stationary while reducing drag while driving.

The problem being to balance airflow while stationary against drag caused by turbulent air.

I don't think unirail will cover the gap created by the bus for an 80" wide panel to sit flat.

[Oldyeller]

Originally Posted by kidharris

Something to think about... I you have 3 mounting points for a straight line across a curved surface the middle point is going to be higher than the 2 end points and try to bend the straight line....

You're right. I'm planning to lay the struts on the roof and then use a straight edge laid across them to be sure they are level. I expect I'll have to finagle stuff to get it to the point at which I feel good about it. At this point (maybe I'll change my mind when I get my hands on my panels) I'm thinking the weakest point in the attachment of the panels is the aluminum frame around the panel.

Hey!! I hijacked my own insurance thread! I guess I'm a lousy human being!

[HamSkoolie]

Originally Posted by o1marc

I don't think unirail will cover the gap created by the bus for an 80" wide panel to sit flat.

I won't. You can probably mount the two inner rails to the roof directly but I'd suggest mounting ALL rails to stand offs. Say 2" standoffs for the inner two rails and whatever height is required at the outer mounting point to put the top of all rails on the same horizontal plane.
There are lots of different ways to do it. You can check out Brian & Erin Adventure Partners (BEAP) on you tube for ONE way to do it.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=K0CNlumpqmg

That link is one of their solar install vids and might show enough of their mounting using unistrut and angle iron.