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Old 03-27-2020, 08:42 PM   #421
Bus Nut
 
Join Date: Apr 2019
Location: Savannah GA
Posts: 756
Year: 2003
Coachwork: Bluebird
Chassis: TC2000
Engine: Cummins 5.9 24v
Rated Cap: 54 passenger
Oh no! Mr Bill!

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Old 09-17-2020, 10:46 PM   #422
Mini-Skoolie
 
Join Date: Aug 2020
Location: Tempe, AZ
Posts: 15
Year: 2000
Coachwork: Bluebird
Chassis: TS FE 2509
Engine: Cummins 5.9 24V
Rated Cap: NBR BODIES = 6
Hi Don/Mary, quick question on the seat rails, why did you choose to leave them together with rubber/plywood subfloor?
We bought the exact same bus from a place in Glendale AZ and I feel the rails are a part of the chassis to frame connection. Also, except for a few tiny cracks in the rubber surface the plywood is not deteriorated at all with metal subframe lacking any rust or damage of any sort. I'm thinking a layer of insulation with bamboo flooring on top should suffice.

I just need to hear your reasoning for moral support..!
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Old 09-20-2020, 07:34 AM   #423
Mini-Skoolie
 
Join Date: Oct 2019
Location: Ruidoso, New Mexico
Posts: 32
Year: 2001
Coachwork: International
Chassis: International
Engine: t444e/7.3liter diesel.
Rated Cap: 18000 GVWR
New Mexico is OK with yellow...But I needed the change, I went with white with black accents.
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Old 09-20-2020, 08:18 AM   #424
Mini-Skoolie
 
Join Date: Oct 2019
Location: Ruidoso, New Mexico
Posts: 32
Year: 2001
Coachwork: International
Chassis: International
Engine: t444e/7.3liter diesel.
Rated Cap: 18000 GVWR
I got my bus from Mesa AZ. and it has the aluminum seat rails, 1in.plywood and rubber flooring . I checked for rust but couldn't find ANY. So I just put it all back together minus a lot of unnecessary bolts and covered it all with 1/2 in plywood. My experience is flooring insulation really doesn't help, that much. I'm still in the conversion stage but we've used it a number of times and it has worked well that way. This is just my actual experience.
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Old 09-22-2020, 05:49 PM   #425
Bus Nut
 
Join Date: Jan 2020
Location: Wild Wild West
Posts: 688
Year: 1999
Coachwork: Blue Bird
Chassis: TC RE
Engine: 8.3 Cummins MD3060
Rated Cap: 84
Quote:
Originally Posted by dond View Post
It will run everything on smart throttle but the water heater, the space heater and the toaster oven, those need full throttle.
What are you running for a water heater? I couldn't find reference to it in all these posts. I'm assuming it's a 120V? I'm trying real hard to avoid having to plumb propane into my bus.
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Old 10-25-2020, 01:05 PM   #426
Mini-Skoolie
 
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Join Date: Aug 2020
Location: Portland, OR
Posts: 15
Year: 2000
Coachwork: Blue Bird
Chassis: TC1000
Engine: Cummins 5.9L 24 valve, 148k miles
Rated Cap: 25,000 lbs
Update on ballast weight removal?

Hi Don - I know this post is from five years ago, but I wonder how things worked out for you after removing your ballast weights? We have a 2000 Blue Bird TC 1000 with similar weights, and are considering removing them. We don't plan on doing a whole lot of winter driving, but can't rule it out on our way to the SW in January from Washington State. I don't have a current weight on my bus, but do plan on getting front/rear axle weights soon.

Others have told me they had to remove/reattach exhaust to get some of the plates out. How was your experience? Were you able to get $$ for the scrap?

Thanks, Tom

Quote:
Originally Posted by dond View Post
Our BB has 4 ballast weights, all 4 are behind the rear axle. I removed 3 of them.
They measure 6in. thick, 8in wide and 28in long. That makes a combined girth of 34in x 28in x 6in. They are steel plates welded together and have a 1/4in thick support frame.
I am able to lift only one end of these and I'd say 300 lbs each. What's your estimate?
I will be scrapping these so I can find out what they weigh.


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Old 10-25-2020, 03:14 PM   #427
Bus Nut
 
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Join Date: Jun 2020
Location: Long Beach, CA
Posts: 382
Year: 1998
Coachwork: Blue Bird
Chassis: TC1000, 40' MPV
Engine: 5.9 Cummins/B300 trans
Rated Cap: U/K
Quote:
Originally Posted by dond View Post
Got the 2 15a circuits started. The load center's in the pic. (20a breakers, all I have right now...15s later.)

C1 will serve the water heater (switched) and 2-3 other outlets.
C2 will serve the window AC and 2 others.



Gen power is the 30a receptacle.
Never mind, I didn't see the date
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