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Old 04-28-2020, 08:40 PM   #21
Mini-Skoolie
 
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I’ve caught on that the 6.0l ford engine sucks and the 7.3 is pretty rad lol. If nothing else I know that much

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Old 04-28-2020, 11:59 PM   #22
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I found a 7.3l 1991 econoline but I’m wondering about tire replacement. How much would it cost to replace the tires on this bus? I think they are 235-85-16. Click image for larger version

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Bus is in Virginia and the seller claims it’s not rusted out
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Old 04-29-2020, 12:02 AM   #23
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Depends on where you buy them. Remember, these things need tires that are rated for more weight than a typical van. WalMart sells some that are listed at around $115 each.

Don't take the seller's word on rust. Ask for pics of underneath. Where is it located? If it's near me, I might be able to go look at it for you.
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Old 04-29-2020, 12:11 AM   #24
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Originally Posted by CHEESE_WAGON View Post
Depends on where you buy them. Remember, these things need tires that are rated for more weight than a typical van. WalMart sells some that are listed at around $115 each.

Don't take the seller's word on rust. Ask for pics of underneath. Where is it located? If it's near me, I might be able to go look at it for you.

It seems it might cost more to buy tires then buy the bus. Do other bus heads sell used tires?
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Old 04-29-2020, 12:17 AM   #25
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Doubtful, but don't skimp on such things. Trust me, if you do, there will come a time you will wish you hadn't. I see many newbies getting into this expecting maintenance and repairs to cost about the same as it would their Camry or Taurus. NOT true. A bus is a commercial vehicle, no matter its size, and being heavier duty, is going to cost more to maintain and repair.

A skoolie can save you money long-term as opposed to a stick-built house or apartment, but you get out of it what you put into it. If you don't take care of your vehicle, it won't take care of you.

Most people here will tell you that nothing is cheap with a skoolie, just cheap in comparison to alternatives. Steer tires for the larger buses can run as much as $200-250 each. Drive tires can run $300 each. Trust me, at $115 each, you're getting off easy.
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Old 04-29-2020, 12:18 AM   #26
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Doubtful, but don't skimp on such things. Trust me, if you do, there will come a time you will wish you hadn't. I see many newbies getting into this expecting maintenance and repairs to cost about the same as it would their Camry or Taurus. NOT true. A bus is a commercial vehicle, no matter its size, and being heavier duty, is going to cost more to maintain and repair.

Most people here will tell you that nothing is cheap with a skoolie, just cheap in comparison to alternatives. Steer tires for the larger buses can run as much as $200-250 each. Drive tires can run $300 each. Trust me, at $115 each, you're getting off easy.

Gotcha I’ll see what I can find
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Old 04-29-2020, 12:24 AM   #27
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Is there a specific rating that specifies the tires can withstand greater loading?
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Old 04-29-2020, 01:43 AM   #28
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Most tires will have a max load weight rating imprinted with other info on the sidewall encompassing the rim bead surface. Generally each tire should be rated for an equal share of the axle weight rating...

For example, if the rear axle rating of the vehicle is 6,000 lbs, and it is a single-wheel setup (one per side), then each tire should be weight rated at or near 3,000 lb each. (6,000 / 2 = 3,000)

Therefore, if tires were used with a weight rating of, say, 1,800 lbs each, the tires would be more likely to blow out, as the vehicle could exceed their combined weight rating by 2,400 lbs.

If the rear axle weight rating were 16,000 lbs, on a dual rear-wheel setup (two per side), each of the four tires would need to be weight rated at or near 4,000 lb each. (16,000 / 4 = 4,000)

Therefore, if tires were used with a weight rating of, say, 2,500 lbs each, the tires would be more likely to blow out, as the vehicle could exceed their combined weight rating by 6,000 lbs.

Front tires should be chosen in similar fashion. This is very much a safety thing, and maybe you could get away with improperly rated tires just sitting in someone's driveway, but keep in mind that you could be charged if a blowout caused an accident and the discrepancy were discovered.
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Old 04-29-2020, 02:55 PM   #29
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Most tires will have a max load weight rating imprinted with other info on the sidewall encompassing the rim bead surface. Generally each tire should be rated for an equal share of the axle weight rating...

For example, if the rear axle rating of the vehicle is 6,000 lbs, and it is a single-wheel setup (one per side), then each tire should be weight rated at or near 3,000 lb each. (6,000 / 2 = 3,000)

Therefore, if tires were used with a weight rating of, say, 1,800 lbs each, the tires would be more likely to blow out, as the vehicle could exceed their combined weight rating by 2,400 lbs.

If the rear axle weight rating were 16,000 lbs, on a dual rear-wheel setup (two per side), each of the four tires would need to be weight rated at or near 4,000 lb each. (16,000 / 4 = 4,000)

Therefore, if tires were used with a weight rating of, say, 2,500 lbs each, the tires would be more likely to blow out, as the vehicle could exceed their combined weight rating by 6,000 lbs.

Front tires should be chosen in similar fashion. This is very much a safety thing, and maybe you could get away with improperly rated tires just sitting in someone's driveway, but keep in mind that you could be charged if a blowout caused an accident and the discrepancy were discovered.

Ok that all makes sense. What does a short bus like this typically weigh? I found some wheels with a 3750lb capacity off a trailer.

It’s in southern Virginia. I’m really hoping this bus runs like a champ and I can just call it a day. I’m getting the owner to send some pictures of the u details and videos of the bus running and starting.
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Old 04-29-2020, 02:56 PM   #30
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CHEESE_WAGON View Post
Doubtful, but don't skimp on such things. Trust me, if you do, there will come a time you will wish you hadn't. I see many newbies getting into this expecting maintenance and repairs to cost about the same as it would their Camry or Taurus. NOT true. A bus is a commercial vehicle, no matter its size, and being heavier duty, is going to cost more to maintain and repair.

A skoolie can save you money long-term as opposed to a stick-built house or apartment, but you get out of it what you put into it. If you don't take care of your vehicle, it won't take care of you.

Most people here will tell you that nothing is cheap with a skoolie, just cheap in comparison to alternatives. Steer tires for the larger buses can run as much as $200-250 each. Drive tires can run $300 each. Trust me, at $115 each, you're getting off easy.

Woah just saw your location! It’s in Suffolk VA
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Old 04-29-2020, 03:10 PM   #31
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I clipped a curb on a hard right turn into a parking lot and blew out a tire. Fortunately there was a used tire place a few blocks away. I got a 50% tire installed for 60 bucks. It was good in a pinch, but I wouldn’t do that for a full set of tires.
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Old 04-29-2020, 04:17 PM   #32
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I clipped a curb on a hard right turn into a parking lot and blew out a tire. Fortunately there was a used tire place a few blocks away. I got a 50% tire installed for 60 bucks. It was good in a pinch, but I wouldn’t do that for a full set of tires.

Walmart tires it is
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Old 04-29-2020, 06:28 PM   #33
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Click image for larger version

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How do I know what kind of rust areas are an issue? Is this an issue?

Also the trans is an e40d. From what I gathered they’re not the best. What do you guys think?
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Old 04-29-2020, 08:00 PM   #34
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Without better pics it is hard to be absolutely sure. However, it looks to me like there is substantial rust coming through the floor which makes me suspicious about rust in structural areas.
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Old 04-29-2020, 08:16 PM   #35
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I second Jack. However, a 29-year-old bus could be much worse. Definitely need better pics, and more of them.
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Old 04-30-2020, 01:25 AM   #36
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Definitely. The seller just said he was firm on 1700 haha so definitely going to let that one go. May check out the Minotaur tomorrow. Unless it’s crazy clean probably wont be really interested. I came across multiple 2000-2002 Chevy 3500 4 windows for $1900 from a dealer. Now that’s pretty enticing if they are fully functional
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Old 04-30-2020, 08:52 AM   #37
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Definitely. The seller just said he was firm on 1700 haha so definitely going to let that one go. May check out the Minotaur tomorrow. Unless it’s crazy clean probably wont be really interested. I came across multiple 2000-2002 Chevy 3500 4 windows for $1900 from a dealer. Now that’s pretty enticing if they are fully functional
Be aware that the 6.6L diesels (DuraMax) had some fuel system problems, the LB7 is notorious for injector failures. Certain year models are known for losing the prime around the filter, not sure if this is because the filter housing sucks air there or if there is some other issue.
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Old 04-30-2020, 10:46 PM   #38
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Be aware that the 6.6L diesels (DuraMax) had some fuel system problems, the LB7 is notorious for injector failures. Certain year models are known for losing the prime around the filter, not sure if this is because the filter housing sucks air there or if there is some other issue.

I had it in my head that it was a 6.5 so thank you for that reality check. I’m going to check out the Minotaur tomorrow so it might end up being that bus after all
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Old 04-30-2020, 11:28 PM   #39
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I had it in my head that it was a 6.5 so thank you for that reality check. I’m going to check out the Minotaur tomorrow so it might end up being that bus after all
In GM chassis trucks and vans, the LT block V8 gassers (5.7L 350 / 7.4L 454) were replaced with the LS series V8 gassers (4.8 / 5.3 / 6.0 / 6.2) around 1999-2000, the 6.5 Detroit V8 diesel was replaced with the 6.6 Duramax V8 diesel in 2001-2002.
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Old 04-30-2020, 11:44 PM   #40
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In GM chassis trucks and vans, the LT block V8 gassers (5.7L 350 / 7.4L 454) were replaced with the LS series V8 gassers (4.8 / 5.3 / 6.0 / 6.2) around 1999-2000, the 6.5 Detroit V8 diesel was replaced with the 6.6 Duramax V8 diesel in 2001-2002.

^^^ so I want the 5.7l gasser because there are tons of parts and it’s very common. 7.4 doesn’t suck but isn’t great. I know nothing about the new gas engines but I’ll stay away. The 2003 Minotaur has a 6.5 apparently. And the 6.6 sucks. Good news because I really like the appearance of older boxier buses better
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