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Old 05-12-2021, 12:52 PM   #61
Mini-Skoolie
 
Join Date: Dec 2020
Posts: 48
Progress has been a little bit slower the past couple of weeks, but I did get around to installing my solar panels on the roof. Two, 250W Trina panels that I picked up locally for $50 a piece. I used the Z-brackets below to mount the panels to the roof.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07Z4J5JCD...roduct_details

I initially installed with the self tapping screws provided with the kit, but quickly realized that wasn't going to be enough. On the surface that mounts to the roof I tapped a 1/4-20 hole all the way through the roof then used a 2-1/4" bolt to secure it. I used a combination of silicone foam, silicone sealant and the tape below to prevent any leaks.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00AYPCJ9G...roduct_details
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Old 05-12-2021, 01:53 PM   #62
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Join Date: May 2021
Location: NJ
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Year: 1993
Chassis: E350 7 window
Engine: 7.3 idi na
Rated Cap: 16
I really like how you did that lighting channel and LOVE THE FLOOR!

I also never heard of that jumper seat and I like how it has a built in seatbelt! What year truck did you source that from?
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Old 05-12-2021, 02:06 PM   #63
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Quote:
Originally Posted by IDIaddict View Post
I really like how you did that lighting channel and LOVE THE FLOOR!

I also never heard of that jumper seat and I like how it has a built in seatbelt! What year truck did you source that from?
Thank you!
I believe F250/F350 Super Duty trucks have that center jump seat with built in belt (see eBay link below).

https://www.ebay.com/itm/22445126663...7af1%7Ciid%3A1
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Old 05-12-2021, 03:58 PM   #64
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Year: 1999
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I'm pretty sure I'm going all VHB tape for the solar panels. I'll let you know how it works out!
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Old 05-12-2021, 05:09 PM   #65
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Join Date: Feb 2019
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Year: 1990
Coachwork: Thomas 4 window w/lift
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Looking good. Keep up the good work!

As a cautionary suggestion, in post#45, it shows your refrigerator in that wooden enclosed compartment.
These types of cooler/refrigerators require cooling/circulating air to keep the compressor and electrical parts functioning. Usually a few inches around the air intake grid(s). As you are likely aware, they can fail prematurely if not able to keep cool via these intake grids.

You may have that already addressed with the hole at floor level, but it looks "tight" in the pics?

Good luck on the rest of your project...
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Old 05-23-2021, 04:06 PM   #66
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First trip in the books. Overall everything went well, just two days at a local campground. Didn’t hookup to the utilities and battery + on board water got us through the weekend no problem. Definitely need more dry storage and organization of the “garage” area under the bed.
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Old 05-23-2021, 08:54 PM   #67
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Location: Long Island, NY
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Good for you. Looks like it was all it was supposed to be. I cant wait for that same experience. Congrats!!!
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Old 06-02-2021, 03:38 PM   #68
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A couple updates on the mechanical side of things.
- Tires on the bus when I bought it were fairly old and fronts were worn. Had all terrains in the rear and highway tires in the front. Picked up some Goodyear Wrangler Adventurer Tires from Amazon for $125 each in a slightly larger size (235 85r16). Unfortunately I don't have a great before and after picture.
- While tires were being mounted I had them do an oil change as well
- Shop noted the rear pads and rotors needed changing, but quote was outrageous so I will be doing those myself
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Old 06-02-2021, 04:06 PM   #69
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Chassis: E350 7 window
Engine: 7.3 idi na
Rated Cap: 16
Love how they fill wheel well more, those have a really cool side profile also!
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Old 07-22-2021, 01:57 PM   #70
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It's been a while since I've posted an update.
Installed a cheap awning on the passenger side. Link to awning below. Only $85 after AAA discount. Build quality is OK for the price.

https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/BK_M...rdInput=awning

I struggled finding a place to mount it because I still wanted to use the doors. Ended up buying some 3ft L-bracket from the hardware store and attached to the roof of the bus. I then attached the L-bracket that came with the awning (black part in the first picture). It is mounted a little high (need a step stool to set it up) but overall I'm happy with how it looks.
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Old 07-22-2021, 02:03 PM   #71
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As I mentioned in a previous post the shop mentioned I needed new rear pads and rotors and quoted me ~$950 dollars to do it! I ordered the rear pads and rotors below and did it myself. Overall not a bad job.

https://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/...kit%20k4718-36
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Old 07-23-2021, 06:30 PM   #72
Mini-Skoolie
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by peteg59 View Post
Looking good. Keep up the good work!

As a cautionary suggestion, in post#45, it shows your refrigerator in that wooden enclosed compartment.
These types of cooler/refrigerators require cooling/circulating air to keep the compressor and electrical parts functioning. Usually a few inches around the air intake grid(s). As you are likely aware, they can fail prematurely if not able to keep cool via these intake grids.

You may have that already addressed with the hole at floor level, but it looks "tight" in the pics?

Good luck on the rest of your project...
Sorry, must have missed this comment when you first posted it. Thank you for the suggestion. I did end up cutting a hole in the back right corner around the air intake. I will certainly keep an eye on it!
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Old 07-23-2021, 07:17 PM   #73
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Awning looks pretty good. Is the install watertight? Or does rain still flow over the windows even when the awning is up?
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Old 07-24-2021, 09:30 AM   #74
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Originally Posted by musigenesis View Post
Awning looks pretty good. Is the install watertight? Or does rain still flow over the windows even when the awning is up?
Unfortunately no. Because of the curvature of the roof I couldn't get it mounted close enough to the roof. Because I used the perforated L-bracket I could potentially move it in closer if it becomes a problem.
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Old 07-25-2021, 12:58 PM   #75
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Location: Highlands, NC
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Everything looks great. A quick question ,I didn't see if you needed to replace any flooring prior to your finished flooring. Were you lucky enough to have a good plywood subfloor to begin with? jeff
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Old 07-25-2021, 01:33 PM   #76
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Coachwork: Girardin Microbird G5 HC
Chassis: GMC 4500
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Quote:
Originally Posted by zen builder View Post
Everything looks great. A quick question ,I didn't see if you needed to replace any flooring prior to your finished flooring. Were you lucky enough to have a good plywood subfloor to begin with? jeff



Hi Zen Builder,


Yes, the plywood underneath the rubber flooring in my bus was in perfect shape; so rather than rip it out, I just left it in along with the WC floor rails. I just covered 3/4th of the floor with rigid insulation followed by a new sub-floor.


In remaining 1/4 of the floor (under the bed) in the bus, I just covered the original plywood with vinyl plank flooring.


Clyn
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Old 07-25-2021, 01:35 PM   #77
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Coachwork: Girardin Microbird G5 HC
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Engine: Vortex 6
Rated Cap: 24
Sorry guys, right answer to 'not my build'. SORRY!!!


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Old 07-26-2021, 06:23 AM   #78
Mini-Skoolie
 
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Clyn, I would say that was a lucky break. I see videos of people ripping out the entire floor, what a job especially if the prior prep work to the framing is done right . jeff
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Old 07-26-2021, 07:04 AM   #79
Mini-Skoolie
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by zen builder View Post
Everything looks great. A quick question ,I didn't see if you needed to replace any flooring prior to your finished flooring. Were you lucky enough to have a good plywood subfloor to begin with? jeff
Thanks! Similar to Clyn, my plywood was in pretty good shape so I left it and added an insulating / moisture barrier layer and then vinyl plank on top. I did pull up a few sections near the wheel well and rear corners to check for rust and it was not bad so I treated it and put new plywood down in those areas.
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Old 08-02-2021, 08:39 PM   #80
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Engine: V8
Hello! I clicked on your thread and thought I was looking at my shuttle bus! My fiance and I have basically the same shuttle. We bought it from a coworker's father who bought it from the western mass transit. It also sat unused for several years and has about the same mileage.

We are pulling out the seats and are contemplating hiring a mechanic to take out our handicap lift.

My burning question is in response to the flooring. Little background --We pulled up a little bit of the rubber matting to find solid plywood in the back at the emergency exit. We then tried taking out one of the small Q'straint tracks (It had only 4 allen head bolts), and well, we had to use an angle grinder to split it to get it out. Once we FINALLY got this out, we had plywood below it. The track was NOT sitting in a U-shaped metal framing, which has sort of thrown us for a loop. All of the other videos we've seen, they were set in a metal framing.

Question is -- Did you take out the rubber mat flooring AND the metal handicap tracks? And if you did take the metal Q'straints, may I ask how the heck did you get them out?

Thank you!
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