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Old 11-11-2020, 05:53 PM   #101
Skoolie
 
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When we purchased the bis we receiced zero paperwork except the bill of sale and title. We have nothing, so ANY info is much appreciated. Our is a 2009, but i am sure your info would carry over. Thank you!

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Old 11-11-2020, 05:59 PM   #102
Skoolie
 
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Year: 2009
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Now...you just listen up. I am far ahead of you...because we are not doing it right!!! You are!!! I know that we should have pulled the walls, pulled the ceiling, and especially pulled the floor. We did not. The bus is from way upstate NY. Yep...lots of rust. In the long run, we ABSOLUTELY should have done things as you are doing. Our cicumstances FORCE a really quick build before winter and it will NOT be a full time living space. You are doing an amazing job and, in truth, I am quite jealous of your detailed proper deconstruction and sure to follow rebuild. Keep on truckin' girlfriend����
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Old 11-11-2020, 06:10 PM   #103
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Year: 2011
Coachwork: Girardin Microbird G5 HC
Chassis: GMC 4500
Engine: Vortex 6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Buster Junior View Post
Now...you just listen up. I am far ahead of you...because we are not doing it right!!! You are!!! I know that we should have pulled the walls, pulled the ceiling, and especially pulled the floor. We did not. The bus is from way upstate NY. Yep...lots of rust. In the long run, we ABSOLUTELY should have done things as you are doing. Our cicumstances FORCE a really quick build before winter and it will NOT be a full time living space. You are doing an amazing job and, in truth, I am quite jealous of your detailed proper deconstruction and sure to follow rebuild. Keep on truckin' girlfriend����

ROTFLMAO...I to, am trying to get in the bus before winter sets in; don't think I am going to make it. To be perfectly honest, if I had known my bus was in such decent condition underneath the trappings, I would be doing the same as you, and would be much further along- hence why I am envious of you guys! In the long run though, it's all good; I am learning more about my bus everyday, enhancing my skills and finding the confidence to do it.


Send me a PM with your email, and I will send the wiring diagrams over.


Clyn
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Old 11-11-2020, 06:14 PM   #104
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BTW, I frequently look at your pics to see what i expect is under our walls, ceiling to help where to place the next screw. Your hardwork is really helping us. Thanks for that too��
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Old 11-11-2020, 06:23 PM   #105
Skoolie
 
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Coachwork: Girardin Microbird G5 HC
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Buster Junior View Post
BTW, I frequently look at your pics to see what i expect is under our walls, ceiling to help where to place the next screw. Your hardwork is really helping us. Thanks for that too��

LOL! Lots, and lots glue
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Old 11-15-2020, 10:40 AM   #106
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Electrical Diagram Questions

Hi Everyone,


I am reading over my bus' electrical diagrams. For the most part, I can read and follow where the wires go; and if they go to the electrical board, I can find the tabs and/or fuses, etc.


My problem is finding the other spots where wires may be connected. For instance:


Portions of the Child Check Lock are hooked up to the OEM horn and something to do with the OEM brake switch, so under:


OEM BRAKE SWITCH



The diagram states that 'Light Blue/White (Circuit 311) at brake pedal switch Pin A."



What is a brake pedal switch? And, where is it located? Is it somewhere around the brake pedal? What does it look like?




OEM HORN


The diagram states: "Tan (Circuit 2 Under steering connector C200 Pin 1A."


What is the steering connector? Where is it located? Is it somewhere around the steering column? And, what does it look like?


Any assistance explaining these two items to me would be greatly appreciated!


Thanks!


Clyn
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Old 11-18-2020, 05:32 PM   #107
Skoolie
 
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Chassis: GMC 4500
Engine: Vortex 6
Rated Cap: 24
Just a quick update... not much to report for this week.



The temps this week have dipped to around 25F, so I haven't really been in the bus.


My daughter went off-island shopping over the weekend, and I sent her to HD and HF to grab some tools for me. So, I am learning how to correctly put them together and safely use them.



I also had my daughter purchased a safe to install in the bus.


I have a young man coming over on Saturday to take a look at the wiring to see if he can remove it, or at least steer me in the right direction when it comes to the items I am not familiar with. He was a mechanic in the Army and is now working with an electrician here on the island...so I am keeping my fingers crossed he can help.



Thankfully, the weather will warm up to spring-like temperatures later in the week, and maybe I can make more progress.


In the meantime, I am perusing the forum and learning more.


Thanks, and have a great evening!


Clyn
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Old 11-18-2020, 10:07 PM   #108
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Hi Clyn,
I'm at the same point you are: Wiring is exposed and I'm looking at it. I'm trying to decide whether to strip out unused wires out of their neatly wrapped bundles, or just disconnect them and leave them. The obsessive part of me wants to pull all the unused wires to tidy it up. Then again, it will take hours and never be seen again shortly. It's the relays and panels that I don't have knowledge of. Ideally, I'd reuse some of the existing wiring to replace the flashers with flood lights to aid in parking in dark camping spots.

Good luck with your electrical sleuthing!
Chris
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Old 11-18-2020, 11:14 PM   #109
Skoolie
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by peakbus View Post
Hi Clyn,
I'm at the same point you are: Wiring is exposed and I'm looking at it. I'm trying to decide whether to strip out unused wires out of their neatly wrapped bundles, or just disconnect them and leave them. The obsessive part of me wants to pull all the unused wires to tidy it up. Then again, it will take hours and never be seen again shortly. It's the relays and panels that I don't have knowledge of. Ideally, I'd reuse some of the existing wiring to replace the flashers with flood lights to aid in parking in dark camping spots.

Good luck with your electrical sleuthing!
Chris

Hi there,


It sounds like you and I are on the same page. I would like to do the same with my yellow and reds 8 way system; having the front and back on separate toggle switches.



Grote Industries makes the LED Super Nova lights (7" yellows/reds) on my bus, but they do not offer a 7" white LED Super Nova light, so I have to find something else- most likely a 6" or similar sized and put a boot on it.



I too want to remove all the wiring that I don't need, and if viable, use it in another project i.e.) solar, dc switches for interior lights, etc. For some of my console buttons I am hoping that I can leave and reuse the wiring from the buttons back to whatever I need to install.



I am at a standstill right now; I have insulated as far as I can without grinding off the bullet-proof rivets holding the angled wall and nest of wires on the driver's side wall. Tomorrow, I have to figure out how to put the grinder together and then use it. But on second thought, it might be safer to have my friend bring his...



With the wiring, I am just leery of starting something that I cannot finish and potentially wind up in a mess. I don't want to tear apart the dash by myself or at all- if possible; or be crawling around the engine bay looking for something, I have no idea what I am looking for, where it actually is and screwing something up where my bus won't start, or I have live wires floating around or causing a fire because I missed something.


LOL...it is what it is.
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Old 11-19-2020, 07:06 AM   #110
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Engine: 6.6 turbo diesel
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Hi there. I wish i could advise on the wiring situation...but i cant. Because of all of the fears that you mentioned, i am just leaving all of the wires behind and running new lines. However, i will let you know that i used an angle grinder for the first time while removing the seats and it was a BREEZE. I wish that i had resorted to it sooner, as we struggled to get half out with a ratchet and wrench before hittimg a frozen bolt. You got this!
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Old 11-19-2020, 07:22 AM   #111
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These particular Teks screws are perfect for attaching 1X to the ribs: https://www.homedepot.com/p/Teks-10-...1380/100160285

One thing about these screws is that you want to firmly brace the wood against the ribs (I used long pieces of 2x4 wedged against the floor to do this) while you're putting in the screws. Otherwise the screws will want to pull the wood away from the rib while the point is trying to drill through. You can keep going but then the hole can get drilled slightly off of where you were aiming and when the screw eventually pulls the wood in, it will be slightly off of where you were trying to get it.
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Old 11-19-2020, 09:13 AM   #112
Skoolie
 
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Chassis: GMC 4500
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Buster Junior View Post
Hi there. I wish i could advise on the wiring situation...but i cant. Because of all of the fears that you mentioned, i am just leaving all of the wires behind and running new lines. However, i will let you know that i used an angle grinder for the first time while removing the seats and it was a BREEZE. I wish that i had resorted to it sooner, as we struggled to get half out with a ratchet and wrench before hittimg a frozen bolt. You got this!

Hi Buster Junior,


Thanks for your words of encouragement on using the grinder. There is a back story... LOL...The other day, I put the grinder together following the directions; using thin air to get a feel for how the grinder felt and spins, the grinding wheel went flying into that thin air and across the bus. Hence the second thought in my previous post, that it may be safer to have my friend stop over.


I just finished my morning bus route; after I make a cup of coffee, I am headed over to my bus and attempt the grinder again.


Thanks again, and have a great day!


Clyn
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Old 11-19-2020, 09:26 AM   #113
Skoolie
 
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Chassis: GMC 4500
Engine: Vortex 6
Rated Cap: 24
Quote:
Originally Posted by musigenesis View Post
These particular Teks screws are perfect for attaching 1X to the ribs: https://www.homedepot.com/p/Teks-10-...1380/100160285

One thing about these screws is that you want to firmly brace the wood against the ribs (I used long pieces of 2x4 wedged against the floor to do this) while you're putting in the screws. Otherwise the screws will want to pull the wood away from the rib while the point is trying to drill through. You can keep going but then the hole can get drilled slightly off of where you were aiming and when the screw eventually pulls the wood in, it will be slightly off of where you were trying to get it.

Hi musigenesis,


Thanks for the heads up on the TEK screws on the 1X.


On the walls, I opted to go with the 2x3's but the same principle will apply with bracing the wood as you mentioned with a 2x4 to stop the wood pulling away from the wall.


I am not sure how anyone else installs the vertical short studs between the window/floor 2x3's, and chair rail, but I was thinking of doing pocket holes to attach these short vertical studs to the upper and lower 2x3's; and gluing the vertical studs to the top/underside of the chair rail.



I think I will use 1X on the ceiling ribs in order to keep some floor to ceiling height.


Thanks again, all and any advice, insights are always welcome!


Have a great day!


Clyn
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Old 11-22-2020, 04:18 PM   #114
Skoolie
 
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Chassis: GMC 4500
Engine: Vortex 6
Rated Cap: 24
Today's update on my build...unfortunately, no photos today.



Last night I dropped off the wiring diagrams to the young fellow, who is going to take a look at them.


Today, he (Nick) and a friend (Collin) came over to the bus lot to check the electrical set up out; They decided it was something that they could do, and started to decommission the bus features. All is going good, and they are so interested in the project, that they volunteered to help in any other way they could i.e.) carpentry, etc.


So tomorrow, I will start removing the front upper wall panel above the driver's seat so we can access the wiring in that front panel; and go from there.


I don't think I will be the forum much this week, so I hope everyone has a safe and happy, Thanksgiving holiday!!


Clyn
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Old 11-22-2020, 06:06 PM   #115
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Vineyardseashell View Post
I am not sure how anyone else installs the vertical short studs between the window/floor 2x3's, and chair rail
I'm attaching these pieces directly to the bus ribs by screwing these shelving brackets on: https://www.skoolie.net/forums/attac...6&d=1604701426 (these are the brackets at Lowes).

and then screwing the brackets to the ribs with these Teks metal-to-metal screws: https://www.homedepot.com/p/Teks-10-...1372/100142820.
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Old 11-22-2020, 06:36 PM   #116
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Brake light switch is mounted either on the brake pedal lever, actuated by a plate attached to the dash frame, or mounted on the dash frame and actuated by the brake pedal lever. They are a normally-open type switch that only passes current when pressure is released from its button.
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Old 11-22-2020, 06:59 PM   #117
Skoolie
 
Join Date: Dec 2017
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Rated Cap: 24
Quote:
Originally Posted by CHEESE_WAGON View Post
Brake light switch is mounted either on the brake pedal lever, actuated by a plate attached to the dash frame, or mounted on the dash frame and actuated by the brake pedal lever. They are a normally-open type switch that only passes current when pressure is released from its button.

LOL...Cheese_Wagon, that is basically the same thing my daughter said, whi!e rolling her eyes at me. She knows more about cars than I do which is why she does my oil changes, batteries, tires, and brakes.
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Old 11-22-2020, 07:03 PM   #118
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CHEESE_WAGON View Post
Brake light switch is mounted either on the brake pedal lever, actuated by a plate attached to the dash frame, or mounted on the dash frame and actuated by the brake pedal lever. They are a normally-open type switch that only passes current when pressure is released from its button.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Vineyardseashell View Post
LOL...Cheese_Wagon, that is basically the same thing my daughter said, whi!e rolling her eyes at me. She knows more about cars than I do which is why she does my oil changes, batteries, tires, and brakes.
Girl got skills...
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Old 11-22-2020, 07:21 PM   #119
Skoolie
 
Join Date: Dec 2017
Location: North East
Posts: 141
Year: 2011
Coachwork: Girardin Microbird G5 HC
Chassis: GMC 4500
Engine: Vortex 6
Rated Cap: 24
Quote:
Originally Posted by musigenesis View Post
I'm attaching these pieces directly to the bus ribs by screwing these shelving brackets on: https://www.skoolie.net/forums/attac...6&d=1604701426 (these are the brackets at Lowes).

and then screwing the brackets to the ribs with these Teks metal-to-metal screws: https://www.homedepot.com/p/Teks-10-...1372/100142820.



Hi Musigenesis,


I will take a look at the links. My daughter is going off island to the dentist later this week and is stopping by home depot; maybe they will have the same things there.



Thanks again for the info- always appreciated
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Old 11-23-2020, 03:26 PM   #120
Skoolie
 
Join Date: Dec 2017
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Posts: 141
Year: 2011
Coachwork: Girardin Microbird G5 HC
Chassis: GMC 4500
Engine: Vortex 6
Rated Cap: 24
Hi Everyone,


This this morning I started to rip out the front upper wall above the driver. I had no sooner started removing the rivets in the plastic trim, when it started raining cats and dogs. My work was interrupted by a tornado warning that came across my phone. By the time the warning was over it was time to jump in my regular bus and head out to pick the kids up from school.


When I returned, I finished taking the wall out. No glue this time but lots of strong and stretchy silicone and rivets holding the wall up.


I have attached a photo of the front wall. I was surprised that there were was no vertical support behind the wall, so I will have to add some before adding a shelf or something in there.


Have a great evening!


Clyn
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